sixwheeledbeast

We didn't know what the property was from the OP. Yes, I have serviced many a fire alarm in domestic properties, however all have been detached properties of various sizes. Mr. H hits the nail on the head as usual, should really be mains interlinked. Mains interlinked would be installed with 3C&E mains cable. Would use Alarmsense over Twinflex, DD.

When I say "working" I don't mean the LED's, do they operate correctly irrespective of the LED.

Are they working at the control panel? The dim one maybe the plastic LED prism missing from the cover? Not used them in a while prefer other sensors.

Or a fire alarm system.

A quick look at the list and there's more than I would put on one panel, would have used a power supply expander. Do you have expander units or is everything crammed on that panel. You also appear to have no external sounder or have some of the list missing. As for your question it's not as simple as listing the parts, we would need to know standby and alarm current for all the components or the system. This is an important step to commissioning the panel upon completion.

No bad press? https://ipvm.com/reports/the-hikvision-hacking-scandal Available everywhere, ADI, DVS, Norbain, Maplin...

Someone sent the pilot for one long stand?

Agreed, also not helped by the fact much of that 90% is poorly installed or not FFP.

Hmm, never seen an onboard one. Not terrible panels, but not great either.

Fitted much pet tolerant stuff over the years and the only PIR's I am confident in are the Bosch one's above. If using anything else I would use perimeter protection. Double knock is not an appropriate method of reducing false alarms, full stop.

"British dance-rock quintet"... er no ta. More appropriate me thinks.

Your welcome.

I am too young but you could get away with driving any old chassis on trade plates. Can't imagine you'd get away with that sort of thing now.

I would usually say Leyland but I imagine many wouldn't know where that was. Dennis kid myself.

Back EMF is the word your looking for.

99s are like £1.30 now, It says Bedford on the buses...

You shouldn't break neutrals for anything! I imagine using a relay from a programmed output to trigger the emergency stop input? Why not a lockable isolator?

From your description the resistors are in the right terminals, is the panel programmed for DEOL?

It can't be helped if that's the kit the installer supports. If you didn't stock Texe people would shop elsewhere for it. Clearly there are installers out there that buy Texe from SW knowing they get good service.

If you have proved your engineers keypad and lead is ok and the DIP switches to enable the radio side are on then I can't think of anything else.

Sorry yes, I just noticed it's a 48-W. You mean the LED's near the flashing port?

Early Starburst Menvier keypad, as above. You can revive them for a little while if you clean the contacts. You should be looking for new controls as any used stuff will have similar wear.

Not necessarily there maybe a short on the data

Full Set Suite is the menu

Have a read over this thread before I start getting deja-vu.