sixwheeledbeast

It sounds like the detection and design is not suitable for your application. Pet detection can be hit and miss with domesticated pets, the quality of the detector is also important here. Even DT's are likely to false alarm in that kind of environment that you describe. When I have done work in aviaries similar I have generally used a combination of active IR beams and contacts.

Alarm systems need to be serviced regularly or you will have issues like this. Also you may find while could be a simple fault, the system is fairly old so you maybe recommended an upgrade. You would be surprised how many call outs I have done, where a customer has done some of the above trying to resolve the issue themselves.

You have an intermittent tamper fault, this could be occurring for a number of reasons. The way the system is responding would be normal for a tamper fault, this is indicating that the system believes it is being tampered with and will alarm internally while unset. Do you know if the system has been serviced recently or has a maintenance agreement? If you are not sure why you have a fault you will need a competent engineer to diagnose the fault, or decommission the system if you no longer wish to use it. I would suggest that:- removing mains, hitting with sledgehammer or taking it apart and pulling wires out; are some of the worst things you can do, as it is likely to trigger the external sounders and upset the neighbours.

..why would I do that?

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/profile/17660-jackbuchan/ ??

CCTV provides a false sense of security to a lot of people, the market is flooded with rubbish due to this. I wouldn't bother with CCTV from what you have said. If you consider how it would benefit your security and you'll find it probably won't. Are you going to stay up every night and watch the CCTV to react to them jimmying the patio doors? Are you likely to be able to use the CCTV to identify any crims after the event? Probably not. If you buy a professionally fitted alarm system you should expect to pay a one off fee for installation and a maintenance fee yearly. This is the same as your Yale will have only a bit dearer, because it's a more secure system.

Batteries for wireless I would expect to last the year in most situations. If the thing has been sitting on a shelf for a while and you used the batteries that came with it maybe swap them. It could be mounted on the edge of it's range or there is something in the middle blocking or causing interference. Try resiting it closer to the main panel to see if that resolves the issue in this case.

That's only the encryption the unit will function correctly without it. (I don't agree it should, but that's another story) You make the app generate the key and type the Hex into Engineers Utils. The manual refers you to the full manual to do this, I recall.

Doesn't surprise me, been there before. You shouldn't be embarrassed it's not your job. Take pride in the fact you'll get to fix a scruffy job.

If they think it's the keypad at fault without checking in the panel or the fuses I suggest you look for help elsewhere. Yes, this is the place to ask questions. I would assume that "making matters worse" is referring to taking the keypad apart when that wasn't necessarily the issue in the first place. If you are uncertain what you are doing you maybe best to have someone look at it anyway. Even if you fix the fault there maybe an underling issue waiting round the corner with a unmaintained system of that age.

To me it sounds like initially there may have been an issue with the external sounder tamper, followed by poking about in the keypad has blown a fuse. Either way it's possibly repairable but most places would sell you a new system to get it up to date. Wiring could probably be reused or most would throw some wireless tat in.

Are you installing the kit yourself? This type of kit is designed to be installed by experienced engineers. If your not sure what you are buying, are you sure your competent to fit it? Just a word of caution, many a DIYer has come here and wasted months of time trying to install there system only to fail, get frustrated or end with a part working system. Minimum kit you will need is the Panel, Keypad and Comms Interface that is assuming you are reconnecting detection devices.

Yep done this on older Quantum's Time, Model and MAC address I think. Don't know of another way other than calling tech.

Yep, 9943 Keypad so Scantronic possibly 9751

Crystal would be backup, clock is normally kept accurate using mains frequency on most panels. Do they have PV's or the like?

Optex have pet immune versions for RX and MX

You can run RADIUS and QoS on many higher end routers, most have good support you get what you pay for. While WPA2 Enterprise offers another layer of security, you could the risk in a domestic situation doesn't warrant that. In essence the cryptography between Personal and Enterprise is the same, for example AES. The benefit of Enterprise is if the private key is cracked only that session is compromised whereas in Personal all connections would be compromised at that point. This is due to the way each session is authenticated individually upon connection using a username and password. This authentication can be an issue with internet enabled consumer gear, hence why it's deployed mostly for commercial applications. I agree routers are often overlooked when it comes to firmware upgrades, but equally the security kit we are fitting is likely to be just as vulnerable; more so for CCTV.

Probably waiting for Connect. Never had an issue with them and I have fitted more than that. App is clunky but I'm not one for apps anyway.

Someone with a bad experience... Manual is pretty comprehensive from memory.

I wouldn't use P2P at all TBH. I like to keep DVR/NVR's separated from the rest of the network.

What is the application? Switching between sources would be annoying for the viewer. Any reason for not using one NVR or two monitors?

P2P (peer-to-peer) is a distribution architecture in computer networking. This is a different to the C/S (client-server) architecture that you maybe familiar with. For CCTV this P2P network architecture is abused to provide easier setup for installers. The way P2P is structured most firewalls would not need port forwarding as the peer uses hole punching to establish the connection to the other peers on the network. In a C/S architecture you are contacting the server (DVR) inbound which would be blocked by the firewall before NAT would occur. This means peers moving between IP's are irrelevant to the other peers, any structure of the peers within the network would be done in the application layer anyway. In this way no DDNS or servers are required to locate the DVR's within the internet. Due to the way P2P networks work they require more bandwidth both inbound and outbound. They are also doing the job of server and client so are more vulnerable to being attacked.

Trigger pins work on logic level. So say a negative or positive, removed or applied to the pin. It's this boolean logic that triggers the equipment. So if your dialler is triggering over and over it's most likely being held in the inverse state. In bashing terms, invert the panel output or invert the trigger logic. Also note that dialler maybe dialling over and over because you are not acknowledging the call. I would assume the thing came with a manual, have a cuppa and read over it carefully.

Well having the device that starts the timer omitted, would mean you have no idea if the system is armed until you set it off. The manual will be pitched for engineers reference so things like that wouldn't be covered.

The security industry is very reactive anyway. I wouldn't say that needed explaining. It would be standard practice to have a 3 months trial period. I assume trial days are more like a pre-screening?