!!..DIY Installers..!!

Finally got my Premier48 and all the detectors and keypads today. Just one quick question, would you recommend using EOL or Double Pole wiring? I have 6 core cable throughout the house already installed so I have the option to go either way. So far not installed a system using EOL before so not too sure if there is any benefit for me.

Everything was going OK on my newly installed Texecom system. The walk test was OK and the siren and strobe tested OK. All PIRs work. Then I tried to put in a new PIN. The Texecom keypad seems to accept the code , i.e. it makes the right beeping noises, but when I try to use the new code to full set the system, it won't accept it. Instead, the only code that works is the factory preset engineer code. I only have one keypad so I assumed, as per the manual, that it was preset to address one. So I didn't attempt to programme the keypad address any differently. To summarise, if I want to access the programming menu, then my new code (PIN) will work. However, if I try and use…

Having fitted my system, I'd like to upgrade the sensors and fit more. I have a Aluminium patio door and a wooden framed window and door. Do you recommend vibration sensors for these to stop someone getting in and if so what type - I can easily get Vybe, Optex or Viper. Are these prone to false alarms and is there an optimum part of the frame to fit these - Any hints on fitting these would also be most welcome - many thanks.

Some time ago some of you recommended that i dump my A1 panel and I've replaced it with a Texecom Verita 8 Compact. The system is set up and works fine with the internal alarm but as soon as I wire the Pyronix bell box to the panel it sounds the internal alarm. When i remove the factory fitted link from terminals D & C in the panel the internal alarm sounds and the 24 hour LED comes on and the alarm will not stop until i enter the user code but as soon as I try to reset it sounds again. The fault may be caused by either one of the things below (or something totally different!) : (a) Looking in the pyronix booklet it states that "the connector must be in the - Ne…

Hi, How would i go about fitting two bellboxes to a securitech 800l pannel? Thanks

I am brand new to this place, and as such this is my first post... We have a DIY installed Veritas 8 compact with a remote keypad and sounder on the outside. The alarm works perfectly until we have a power cut.... The panel dies and the alarm box wails for about half an hour. The battery inside the panel is brand new, and we've tested that there is power in there. Does anyone have any advice? Wiring diagrams etc etc etc. This is a nightmare as we want to move house and we want to be able to say that the alarm works fine.

My installation manual mentions the use of an anti-code each time the alarm is activated but I cannot find any info about how this code is generated or what codes are used. Is this a feature thats only available to registered engineers or am I missing something in the manual?

In the ancillary bag there are various resistors, screws, fuses and a square piece of white plastic! Any suggestions what the plastic part is for???

Hi,This might seen a very stupid question but here i go, I have been looking at install manuals found on the internet for the securit 800l and i have noticed on wiring diagrams that it has only 1 AUX Poweroutlet to all the detectors how can i then power all the detectors etc with only one aux outlet of + and - ? Sorry it must seen an extremely simple question to you Thanks

Does anybod know if it is possible to connect a passive vibration sensor (NC; fixed on a window) to a Texecom Premier 88 and tune the sensitivity through the multiple knock configuration. I am not sure if the inputs of the control pannel are fast enough to detect the short pulses from the sensor.

Hi, I this any good and is it realitivly simple to install? But if i will buy i will get an electrician to wire it into the mains, Im not good around electrics! http://www.alertelectrical.com/product.asp...ID=0&prodID=146 Thanks

Hi I have just joined the forum and been reading through all the excellent advice that has been given by the experts. I am having a house renovated and I would really like to fit my own alarm system. Whenever I do anything like this for the first I like to gather as much information on the topic that I can. That's where this forum (and Dave's website) is so really useful. I cannot find any other resource with so much information for a first time installer. That in mind I would like to start by asking about some of the technical terms that I have come across in my search, that I don't fully understand. Could some of you experts out there give me some further informatio…

On the back of my house we have a wooden framed glass conservatory which we use as if it were an internal room. It measures 9ft by 14ft and is glass windowed all round except for a double french door leading to the garden and same double door leading to the house. These are both locked but both have windows in them. Can anyone suggest how to best protect this access point to my property please? I've looked at various PIR options, glass break detectors and shock sensors, but I'm not sure what to go for. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I've now fitted my cable runs for my premier 48, all concealed in walls and floors. Just got to install the detectors and contacts. The panel is located in a landing cupboard. This used to be an immersion heater cupboard, big cupboard and a high top cupboard. Anyway the panel is installed in the top of the cupboard at ceiling height allowing cables to enter directly into roof space without being exposed. Initially cables were run to allow loft installation but these forums seem to recommend against that so I dropped them into the cupboard. Main question is with the bellbox. It is right at the eaves of the roof for which I have to borrow ladders each time I need to …

My Texecom Veritas installation manual tells me I should wire all the individual zone tamper loops in series. I have three quad PIRs and two magnetic detectors in my system. Does it matter about the order in which I connect each zone? I ask because the manual shows the last zone as being supplied by a six core cable where the alarm wires (red & black) go the the zone terminals, the +12V and 0V wires (white & green) go to the AUX terminals and the tamper wires (blue and yellow) are connected in series with the other detectors. My question arises because I don't really understand how the tamper system works and my "last" zone is my back door magnetic detector which …