sixwheeledbeast

I mention this to customers they rarely remember until they call to say it's not working... It's the same for any equipment that serves your services to the internet. CCTV is another example. Just copying the SSID and Password doesn't always work for all equipment, the cipher type maybe different on the new router so you can have issues. Best to remove the device and reinstall.

You don't mention much about the system, I'm assuming it's a Texecom Elite with a Smartcom and that it's connected with Wifi. If so and you have replaced the router as per what the ISP have said then yes it's very likely a new router will require the Smartcom reconfiguring. If the system was setup with wired Ethernet it should remove this issue. Sounds like you also need a new installer if unreliable, the app is tied to the installer they are not end user serviceable. Although suddenly and 6 months in the same sentence seems odd...

There isn't one, C&K is long obsolete. Panel and keypad required.

What happened before it started sounding? Data cable or something on the network is likely damaged causing the keypad to lock out. Would need investigating further, there is no magic off switch.

Maybe consider the spec, I know it seems easy to throw stuff where it is now. As much as you may wish to DIY, correct placement and design could see significant savings with better and more usable footage.

It will only record in analogue resolutions even if converted, not recommended. Some machines are "hybrid" so you map IP's to the channels, this usually requires PoE elsewhere and detecting cams from the WAN. Just replace the lot with new Samsung. Seems a shame to get rid of a decent DVR but if 960H isn't good enough now (new cams?), you need to start again.

Not much you can do as an end user if you don't know the code. Removing the mains should have made it run on batteries and then trigger the outside siren if it's completely dead. If not of that happened then something is broken. Alarms need servicing regularly this may not have been done and other things maybe faulty. Either leave it powered down or call an alarm company/engineer to service and reset everything.

There is more to a siren than it's backlight...

I actually would say they are well designed even tho I don't use that model. Anything with a backlight will die eventually and at least the led strip is removable/replaceable.

I have fitted a few systems with HA integration of varying degrees. Most of the time if they had no HA the alarm could to what they wanted anyway.

I know my point being, disconnecting the cameras is an issue or disconnecting the network could be an issue; I don't see them as suitable options. It's all down to the kit, I know some kit would completely fail setup like this. If the switch doesn't come up you have no video. Your then relying on the intruder I'd assume. A normal ARC CCTV system would be self contained and have alarms per camera themselves. This seems like video confirmation but your covering areas outside the intruder... Possibly a bit pointless all this ARC CCTV stuff in the way it's implemented to get police response anyway? Anyway hard to say as we don't know the full details of the systems but removing power from equipment is never a reliable solution. You have no way to prove the equipment is up or will come up when you need it. I don't worry but I have concerns and to my best to protect my security and privacy but everyone is different. Many seem to be happy telling everyone what amazing meal they're having on holiday via social media...

Depends on the kit... If the system is still recording they'll need to have playback access anyway to check on alarms. Disconnecting cameras would trigger video loss alarms, if the system is missing if they check on it they may think there is a fault. Your also adding a single point of failure to the system. The most sensible solution would be a privacy mask on the cameras triggered by I/O.

ECS is required for site work and most contracting. It's not training tho NSI/SSAIB are company approval, you can't have this as an individual. Tavcom courses for training but people are suggesting you get your CV into local companies.

If you do get a supply of them... unlikely to get a large quantity from a wholesaler if they even have them listed; I would suggest to replace as part of any maintenance. The transparent wiring cover will easily flick out at the hinge with correct application of a flat screwdriver, so you could have covers ready to go with spare wiring covers (buy a few dummies). I know it's not the point but you could consider getting some adhesive 12v LED tape instead, most thinner stuff can be cut at 8-10cm sections make them up ready to go. It's less hassle to go forward using the same box if you want, but not offering or connecting the illumination. As I say I don't offer illuminated sounders every now and then a new customer enquires about them, I ask if they have or have applied for planning permission to have one and then explain the details of this. If the customer even wanted to put the effort in to apply, your unlikely to get it granted in a domestic situation. No neighbour wants to look at your light up advert looking across the road in the evening... more importantly, I don't feel they should have to either.

It could be anything as above. From my experience with them they can FA if they get bounced on the floor by accident. I assume these are new and you haven't dropped them at any point? Isolate the circuit from the device to prove the controls and wiring, then swap the working with the suspect to rule out the device.

To expand on above. Most likely the interference reed is picking up the magnet because of how it's mounted. Not every door frame lends itself to having hassle free G3... Does the site need Grade 3? If not don't use it. If a Grade 3 system have the interference reed trigger a fault not tamper to rule out an intermittent tamper issue. Probably just millimetres off being in the sweet spot, if the instructions have been followed exactly.

Chance of panel being duff is low. I'd have defaulted and isolated things at the time. With only engineers keypad on, if it's still the same then consider panel or firmware.

It may get it working for now. Really it's the charging rate to check not just voltage.

They are designed not to be disabled. Get up a ladder and smack it with a hammer...

The system isn't working correctly. It likely hasn't been serviced in a long time and either the battery is faulty and/or the panel charging circuit has blown. This would need repairing or the whole system decommissioning before you can isolate the power without triggering the outside siren.

Load Default button held down? NVM issue? Network Errors? What does the log say? Clearly something is wrong. I wouldn't be impressed as a customer with the answer, I don't know. Isolate things and work backwards until it's stable.

The comment regarding Grade 4 shows complete misunderstanding... Curtain PIR, Beams, Foil, all probably much better options. Make sure your glassbreak supports bulletproof/laminated glass consider how the shutter will affect detection, if you ignore us. Chubb may want to rip half of it out if it's not to spec anyway.

DIY can't do Grade 3. Double Knock doesn't conform to any standard. Motion detection fitted correctly can cover a window area if the window was broken. Hence the question is a glass break the correct detection for the task, most often they are not.

Was there a question? Replace and/or resite the breakglass if that's the most appropriate equipment to use, it's not fit for the job as is.

As we say above, if a blinking LED is the only think provided by the manufacturer this should only be used as a visual human indicator not to control something. We do understand your problem and while it can be done with engineering something; either from discretes, semis and logic or even software on a SBC, we are looking at a different level. Being involved in safety and security systems we are looking at the risk of something like this, maybe this isn't how it works over the pond but modifying kit like this would put the liability on you if it failed. If the manufacturers design it to have a failure output to use then this would be tested to the standards required and if that failed you would take it up with them. Your kit wouldn't be tested to the same standards and while you are understandably trying to keep your kit electrically isolated from the manufacturers it would still be classed as a modification removing any conformity the equipment has. Over here it happens, companies will build projects using all parts that are 'xy' rated believing the end product they supply has that conformity. It's not how it works all the components may have never been tested with each other before. For things that are not critical maybe this is never discovered, but if something fails in a critical system questions will be asked, most likely in court. Even something as simple as mixing manufacturers of electrical breakers within a consumer unit, if a fire occurs this maybe to blame. Manufacturers are not going to be testing conformity of there kit with every other manufacturer just to make sure you can use what you have on the shelf...