sixwheeledbeast

It may work, just at a lower sound output. You need a zone type that won't effect the system, I'd use Custom with everything disabled.

It depends what the "customer" wants. As you have discovered there are multiple ways to do it. Digi Outputs don't sink much current so you could overload. It's 1 panel output is a little more. I'd generally use a PE48 with plugon relay card if I know I need to do stuff like this. The recommended impedance on the loudspeaker output is minimum to stop a short, if higher it will just be harder to drive so quiet. Use an expander and it's loudspeaker output if you want remote speakers instead of a mimic sounder. I'd say with it wired NO it was on mimic before.

Yep the relay output of the beam

Because the old panel sound was was mimic not a chime or maybe the original installer didn't know how to wire stuff to a TS?...

There is a normally closed output on the relay too....

|Doubt you need any relays. Just wire them into a zone, set as some unused/custom zone type and program as chime or 24hr whichever you want.

You get what you pay for... As tech moves on it's increasingly common to have local radio attacks on equipment. Wifi jammers are often used to defeat doorbell cams at the moment.

It's down to the ethics of the company. I'm sure some would lock just to make it awkward to move maintainer. There are genuine reasons to lock panels from the installers POV tho:- You are protecting the company from a malicious claim, say if the system failed to operate because it had been modified by an end user or another maintainer. Making sure the system is maintained as per any out of hours agreement and that expiry of this is displayed on the system. Maybe the system hardware isn't fully owned by the customer, it could be leased or yet to be paid off in full. There is also a possible argument that the programming of the system is the intellectual property of the maintainer, even if you own the hardware.

I would assume some local co?

Did you read the thread? They are obsolete, upgrade the system or take a risk on finding an equally or less faulty used one.

I'd say someone tried the code defaulting procedure and got it wrong or the panel is knackered.

I still think it's the G3 part that has the fault from what you have explained so far, so wiring bell as G2 like I already said would stop the fault. The other option is getting someone in that knows what they're doing.

Don't really use the wireless keypads. I know you have to wake them up before starting exit procedure if using a prox tag. Otherwise they should work the same. You say your entering the code and nothing is happening so maybe it's not enrolled correctly. Delete and enroll again?

There is a bell delay if you come through the entry route and the timer expires.

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

What are the comfort LED's doing? Have you triggered it with a bell test or giving the trigger a negative.

If it's "Aux fault" and not "bell tamper" then I don't think it would be the bell tamper? I recall EN was minimum 2" fixings for warning devices but I don't remember if it was overall screw length or penetration. It is daft to have 2" screw and more than half of it not in the wall. I don't like these for this either but it apparently makes them easier to be lazy measuring up for drilling.

The wiring is poorly terminated but it doesn't look loose... There are no resistors required for compatible panels/inputs. You shouldn't mix G3 Aux Fault and Aux Tampers together, but it doesn't seem to have been wired it like that anyway. You haven't terminated the test terminal at the panel from what I see, so it's not doing the G3 periodic testing which I expected to be part of the issue. I'd say it's DIY so just follow the instructions for Grade 2 installation using 5 wires. Make sure the bell hold off and battery works see if the fault clears.

So you have it wired as a Grade 3 bellbox and it's maybe failed one of the G3 self tests I'd guess? Assuming you have everything wired and programmed correctly on a Premier panel that is.

There's gunk on the pyro I'd say it needs replacing anyway. As above for what the colours are, weird as those may be...

Don't come back here after you have cocked up looking for free help and tell those people that do it everyday for a living they're wrong! You did actually say "Theres no need for a service, or calling an engineer" but you don't seem to understand why it needs servicing. If you want poor advice or copies of random copyrighted manuals from people that aren't trade verified, go and find some other forum...

Don't use Scantronic regular but to reset a tamper I'd expect you need the Master user code if not set to Engineer Reset. Sounds like you maybe best to have it serviced and re-programmed so you have the Master code.

So it doesn't reset with your Master user code? You definitely have the lid on and closed the lid switch correctly?

It's not a customer facing interface so I don't see it as an issue. If done via Smartcom and engineers Cloud account, you avoid this issue as well.

Possibly but it's hard to say if it was fully decommissioned correctly when they came out to silence it all those years ago. The alarm wires should be low voltage so your not likely to get a shock from a PIR, if that's what you mean by safe. I have been to a job were someone had suppose to "decommission" a system, all they did was remove the power to the internal siren, bell trig and keypad... PIR's and bell were still powered.