sixwheeledbeast

I can't see it being enrolled on another system as a problem. Faulty stuff from new is very rare these days. I am thinking like JW, have you enrolled everything adjacent the unit there could be a signal strength issue.

It maybe repairable but if they don't get serviced regularly they can go pop. Have an engineer attend to it, see what they think. A new battery may work but your not sure if other equipment is damaged/faulty.

nope

I am not sure why you can't do that. You can assign as many attribute 1's as you need. It would be useless if you couldn't use Omittable/Part 1,2,3/Access/EE2 or Part Guard simultaneously

So you need one Area and two part sets as you say. You can select any number of part sets to omit each zone from.

Suites are a way of arming multiple Areas at the same time. I rarely use Suites as most systems I would install are on Entry/Exit setting not Timed. I would always avoid separating systems into Areas from the same keypad, for other reasons irrelevant for your system. What exactly are you trying to accomplish with your system. You need a full set and you will need a bedtime set this can be a part arm, what else do you need?

Premiers have "Areas" the amount of these depends on the panel model, Areas are like dividing a system into little separate alarm systems. Then each Area has 3x Part sets, these are a quick way to isolate (omit) a section of the area the part set is in. So a bedtime set, for example. Again there are many ways to do the same thing, a skilled Texecom installer would try to make the system as easy to operate from the user perspective, but still conform to the relevant standards. Without knowing the layout or what you need I imagine only Area A is used and two part arms.

Use the part set suite Part button in top level engineers. With the Premier there's several ways to do the same thing, that's why to a newbie the manual is all over the place.

Shouldn't need to play with other attributes, just the zone types above with the default attributes

Some of us have other things to do on the weekend... Read ALL the manuals cover to cover a few times. You will not be learning Texecom radio stuff using the DIP switches any more, as that's for legacy. Default everything start a fresh, to learn radio OTB press Omit button while in highest level engineers menu, follow the manual for V3 firmware.

The internal siren/speaker should be away from the other controls for that reason. You could disconnect the internal panel one and fit one in the hall.

Passive's can't see through the glass. Any issues will be temperature related. It's wireless so easy to resite, if you are installing yourself you have the option to try and move if required.

I remember having trouble when the backplate of the flush keypads changed. I had to replace an older backplate that had been buried in the wall already, when the old front had been misplaced.

Many of the customers I have fitted these "posh" keypads have wanted them to match the electrical hardware. I have had similar situations where they didn't match or on seeing them they preferred an alternative or even white. I also wouldn't rule out older stock which had a different backplate IIRC.

Hi instructions for trade applications are here

Yep if the charging rate is low unless you are capable of diagnosing the issue with the charging circuit. Most installers would replace and wouldn't get involved with component level stuff. If there's voltage then the battery fuse will be fine? ACT tester could be faulty, batteries could be a faulty batch, I would definitely be sure to test everything before replacing the panel. To the batteries charge and then pass on another panel? You have proven the battery and the tester then

Use your meter to check the battery is being charged, voltage on the leads isn't checking much.

You need to look at the "Guard Access" type for hallways. £23.50?

Lots of reasons or choice of kit. I would only use higher quality sensors with sealed optics for example. If you are trying to keep the sensors looking the same then Texecom Elite all look the same wireless and wired so that could be a reason.

Follow the instructions in the box for setup. You should have enough resistors and jumpers in the kit boxes for your installation.

Always best to face a DT into the property and make sure you adjust the MW range correctly.

It would cost more to return and replace than fitting one in the first place.

You can always go the cheaper option but it's you that will be attending the false alarms.

You can't have a inbound service through the firewall without an open port. Be it Yep, possibly the intruders may have gone if you are thinking of a Police calling system, in a way it's done it's job. You can have monitoring without Police response, the security with monitoring is in the fact the site is polled regularly. If someone cut your phone line, for example, the monitoring station can alert you. You can then action appropriately yourself. They are Com Port modules and plug on. Cheaper components. Yes you are more likely for drop outs and it's another local attack point. I'd use 8 cored cable as standard, spares and reducing voltage drop. You only require four cores for keypads.

Never angle PIR's downwards they are all designed to be mounted perpendicular to the floor This is no work around. Average alarm monkeys seem to struggle with port forwarding, they are trying to make it easier by using uPnP. Therefore, Texe hope to reduce the hours of technical support time. It's not service downtime you need to worry about, it's attack downtime. Wouldn't have bothered they look nice but another gimmick IMO LAN if you can wire it, there is a reason the WiFi is half the price. Pure copper none of this CCA rubbish. Must be marked up as Type 2 now IIRC.