PeterJames

Sorry I didnt look that close I said mine are similar heres a link for one with no neutral Ill post a pic of mine in a minhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smart-Wifi-Touch-Wall-Switch-No-Neutral-Required-1-2-3-Gang-UK-SELLER/164050287240?var=463672810618&hash=item263228ba88:g:VNoAAOSwFzdev~vb

No neutral required

I recommend backing access up to a usb or server everytime they make a change, or add a card. That way if the hdd goes or the system falls over, its just install software on new machine and run backup, and all they lose is the journal

I imported the light switch's from China I used to buy a lot of CCTV directly I buy very little now. There are a few different ones on ebay, but most dont do two way for hall and landing where you need to switch either light from upstairs or downstairs for example. The ones I imported have a wireless switch that looks the same as the normal switches, so rooms that have two light switch's have a wireless one at one end. Mine are similar to the Sonoff switches https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sonoff-T3-EU-1Gang-Smart-WiFi-Wireless-Touch-Switch-Wall-Light-Remote/293588175534?hash=item445b380aae:m:mKb5butd_BuZhQ7hDIl-K6Q

Hub wise I would recommend one of these you dont need an internet connection for your stuff to work, unless of course you are using Alexa Hubitat hub: https://hubitat.com/products

I wouldnt use wireless for security if it can be wired, especially CCTV. If you run Cat 5 to your camera positions you can either POE them (better but more expensive) or if your on a budget you can use AHD cameras with Baluns. I would also advise running cables for the intruder and a couple of cat 5 to the TV point that way you can use HDMI over cat5 to the tv from the recorder. All my light switch's are 433 similar to the Lightwave ones (I used to have lightwave ones but having a button for on and a button for off was too complicated for my keyholder) I have outputs on my alarm hard wired to 433 transmitters, same with the CCTV, and I have a 433 receiver wired to a zone programed as keyswitch for arm only, so I can get alexa to arm the alarm, but she cant switch it off.

There are several alarm companies that offer automation and security. It all depends on your budget really. Many alarm manufacturers are playing catchup, but they do have to jump through several more hops than the DIY market. Many like Risco and Pyronix try to market to both trade and DIY and to some degrees they do hit that market. Personally I have a separate home automation system to my security, but I have some integration. The intruder controls my house lights, my CCTV controls my external lights, my home automation can arm the alarm but it cannot disarm the alarm. Anything that can be hacked should not be able to disarm your alarm.

Because your now just a public member, and we have to pay for the comfy seats in the mod lounge

I would guess that wire was unused then

Normans were French? and thats a horny hat not a horn one

I dont think you will find any vikings called Roger, they will have names like Harald, Svend and Knud

Cus it keeps his mum on her toes when she's cooking his nuggets and chips

Only one previous owner

There are probably many wires that are not used inside a control panel do a bell test if it works then its not a bell wire. Then set it if it sets then its likely not a wire in use

Its most likely a short between tamper and circuit, are there any spare cores on the cable?

Bizzarly I thought of that when his name popped up the other day its funny what you remember about people QFA

Funny reading the first post I was thinking exactly the same as all the replies. Now I am thinking I was probably wrong, judging by what everyone else has said

Is it wired across the lock feed for sure, did you check? I am not familiar with the ATS systems, but most access control panels have a RTE input. Normally the symptom you describe is because the RTE is wired into the controller as normally closed when it should be normally open or vice versa.

I dunno, he had a picture taken of his pipe bender in a church

If the engineer defaulted the panel then the engineer code was not locked? If it had been locked he would not have been able to default it. I am guessing what happened was that the engineer defaulted the engineer code and the user code. The user just needs to change the code back to whatever they were using before

£800.00 doesnt seem that unreasonable but I think I would want an original machine. I look after the Smart family in Sussex they have a few arcades around these parts I may ask them what they have in their stores, I know they do have the odd one or two machines.

Hi and welcome,

can you not power that one locally ?

Ive got one of them, all he does is eat sleep and woof at cats, he cant even make a cup of tea lazy bastard, I wont get another one

That makes more sense