PeterJames

Sorry, none of us install Gardtec panels so we dont know how to change it. But to be helpful if you replace the battery every four years you wont need to change the timer, assuming that you buy a branded battery from a reputable dealer that rotates his stock regularly and not one thats been sitting on a shelf for three and a half years

Have you tried changing the battery?

But why do you think these points are wrong? Code using 6 digits is more secure than 4, I think that a Pace is less secure but on the other hand the false call being passed to Police simply because someone forgot their code was equally a problem. So lets look at the door contact problem, there are several different types that suit many different doors there are graded flush and graded surface, the only ones I see that are a problem are the grade 3 sites they are a pita but is G3 there for higher security or because the EU are insisting on it?

What is wrong exactly with the standards we have?

Depends on how you look at it, I have a 2008 transporter we purchased six years ago for £18k. At 129k miles the engine has gone we have spend at least £3k on it over the last couple of years with stuff failing plus servicing of £500 per year so total cost £24k divided by 6 =£4k pa we have just purchased a three year old Traffic for £5k if it lasts two years it will be better value for money. I have had a quote for engine rebuild at £4k I can buy a similar example for £6k on autotrader so do I spend £4k so I can sell it for £2k or do I try and sell it as is? Or do I just scrap it? My plumber has a transporter, it spends more time in the garage than it does on the road

Well I wont be buying any more VW's

So what is wrong with the standards we have exactly?

Just watched the local news people chose to use the cheapest car parking service they could find, only to find that their car had been parked in a muddy field with the key left in the ignition. They co apparently lost some of the cars, cant think how. I suppose to some people saving money is more important than value for money, I love saving money myself, but I do my homework not just choose the cheapest.

I have to admit the same thought went through my mind, along with its a good job that banks dont use them

You need to show a pic of how its wired into the panel along with the new bell, the old bell wiring is irrelevant

Not 940nm though Stu

It already was BS thats why its called BS EN 50131

LOL!

0 is the escape button it will take you out of engineering you may need to press it twice

Ive just realised that was the wrong manual you need this one http://www.rglsecurity.co.uk/usermanuals/Gardtec 370 - 581 - 582 User Manual.pdf

Try pressing the 0 button, before you do do you know the user code?

He works in Birmingham. He lives in a different county altogether

http://www.rglsecurity.co.uk/usermanuals/Gardtec 350 User Guide.pdf

Cats are a little worse than dogs as they can climb up on stuff, Bosch Blueline Dual Tech are the best dont point them anywhere where te animal can get within 6ft of the detector and read the instructions. I havent done any intruder engineering for years now, so I wouldnt really be able to assist with the codes I would be okay if it was a later panel but not the older ones. You have the user manual though so it should be straight forward enough if you follow the instructions

Dont take any notice of James he is living in the dark ages what type of pets have you got?

Gardtec 300

I am surprised that a senior tech support engineer would say that without knowing what the current draw of the system is. We install systems daily and I can tell you without doubt that you are drawing too much current for the on board PSU. Its up to you but I would check the current draw in alarm before proceeding.

You use the other power supply (with another back up battery) to power the detection and keypads, the panel will handle the bells on its own. The drawing shows the tampers in series, for the circuits, you just have to find the page that shows putting two sounders in series now.

You have one wire in the tamper return for the bell so I take it that either you have wired the tamper returns in series, or only connected one tamper return. You have two negatives in the bell power terminals and the circuit tampers are not wire correctly which would suggests to me that you probably havent wired the bell return in series at all, and probably only have one bell tamper returned. The current being drawn from your system when in alarm is higher than the power that your control panel is able to supply. Before you go and waste money on buying two new bell boxes. 1. Do you understand what series means? 2. You need another power supply to run everything that you are trying to run off of your panel. At the moment you are trying to tow a caravan with a 50cc motor bike, you may be pulling it along okay but you are putting enormous strain on everything, and eventually something will give. Your transformer should be around 19.5vAC the 12dc output should be 13.5Dc so I would say the panel power supply is on its way out, or the battery in your multimeter needs changing, assuming its calibrated.

You need to wire them in series, you also need another PSU when both bells are activated you are overloading the onboard PSU, as AlYeti says how do you switch it off LOL!