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1animal1

Pyronix Homecontrol+ vs Visonic Powermax vs Texecom

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7 hours ago, al-yeti said:

Ok I admit it I just a house bashers not a pro like the others 

 

I am quite sure I said "I am not having a dig"

 

Your just digging your own hole geezer , just get on with it, what's the big deal?

In fairness though fella, you had a dig then said 'I'm not having a dig' 

 

There's no big deal. I joined as I wanted your opinions. Otherwise I would have just got on with it blindly :)

 

So in answer to the above, were I able to get hold of the PC software and cable, would that make it much more doo able... Pretty sure I don't need a new module for that too do I?

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If we are talking Texecom PC software then if your lucky the CD will be with the panel. The cable will come from a wholesaler.

When fitting pro gear for DIY the issue will come down to availability of stuff like this.

If everyone could access all the information for all alarm systems, this would facilitate methods to defeat systems easier. Pro installation manuals and software are generally trade only.

 

It is not easy to gauge the skill level of every DIY'er that stumbles upon this alarm geek forum, so take any criticism with a pinch of salt. Only you will know if you are capable of the task in hand.

 

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Thanks fella - there must  be a huge difference in the people posting on here. I'm not saying I won't hit trouble, I would just like to know if I am flogging a dead horse or at the very least - stand a chance;)

 

I'll give Texecom a call later and see what their view on support is, if i were to buy their system - as suggested above. They may be open to a degree but see what you are saying regards them not wanting to release sensitive information - I tried for my current Eurosec and failed miserably which i suppose should be telling in itself. 

 

Can you pick any holes in my shopping list - summary is PIR in garage, living room, hall and landing (wired) - door contacts front and both rear doors (1 patio) - 3 settings, full, daytime  (turn off living room PIR) and night time (turn off landing and LV room PIR)

 

Texecom ricochet kit-0003 (includes 3x pir's, 1x door sensor, 2x fobs) Elite 48w

1x additional wired sensor ACH-0001 (for landing mount)

CEK-0001 Wifi module

Premier elite FMK pad with recess box

2x additional wireless door contacts

X3-BE fully lit siren (single piezo) wired

1x Dummy X3 with LED module (not sure if can wire or not given wire already in place, or battery) for rear of property - tempted to go for 2 wired for effect as house backs on to woods

PC cable from the bay 

 

If I'm running wire to the panel then i could just as easily wire to the garage and Hall leaving one wireless PIR in LV  - all door contacts need to be wireless for the near impossible cable runs

 

Thanks :)

Edited by 1animal1

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1animal1, you're wasting your time asking here unfortunately. You'll get all the help you want from a very helpful bunch in the 'Alarms, CCTV & Telephones' section on DIYNOT.com

 

That said, if you are serious about security drop anything wireless and using an app from your shopping list.

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4 hours ago, Dick said:

1animal1, you're wasting your time asking here unfortunately.

 

Clearly not, otherwise he would have given up by now.

Do DIYNOT verify members for Trade? How can you make such a broad statement from your experience here?

 

4 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

 

Texecom ricochet kit-0003 (includes 3x pir's, 1x door sensor, 2x fobs) Elite 48w

1x additional wired sensor ACH-0001 (for landing mount)

CEK-0001 Wifi module

Premier elite FMK pad with recess box

2x additional wireless door contacts

X3-BE fully lit siren (single piezo) wired

1x Dummy X3 with LED module (not sure if can wire or not given wire already in place, or battery) for rear of property - tempted to go for 2 wired for effect as house backs on to woods

PC cable from the bay 

 

If I'm running wire to the panel then i could just as easily wire to the garage and Hall leaving one wireless PIR in LV  - all door contacts need to be wireless for the near impossible cable runs

 

Thanks :)

 

Minimum spec without visiting site would be every room on ground floor and landing with a sensor, any entry/exit doors have a contact.

I would agree to wire as much as possible and I wouldn't be bothered about the app.

If using two wired boxes you will need extra PSU, and be aware that ill illuminated bellboxes may need planning permission if branded.

Use one wire and one zone per device for wired stuff.

I think I answered everything...

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Seems Dick is still angry...

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Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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Certainly seems to have, thanks mate. It won't be that difficult to cover the kitchen off. My wired pad will be in the hallway backing onto the garage wall - so i can run several cables all to the garage and into the kitchen/hall/garage PIR's quite easily, the runs will have to go along the garage wall but figure this won't be an issue, as if cut, the alarm will trigger regardless. Only leaves a downstairs toilet and conservatory vulnerable.... 

 

Throws my plan out a little regards the package so I'll need to run a few more calcs as to the best way  - will probably end up banging 2 spare wireless PIR's on the bay.

 

I also rang Texecom to confirm direct to consumer support which they are happy to do, unless I'm asking to be babysat for basic stuff, which i understand - they said that i could run 2 wired components from the pad too and program the whole lot with the PC software assuming i have the lead or LAN connector (he said LAN was worth the extra over wifi), he also mentioned that he preferred using the panel to program, and not the laptop- they also mentioned that i cannot use the app until I've updated the firmware to version 4 which may require me buying the firmware board (£20). also confirmed the X3 box and running a 2nd X3 on low power mode or reactive?...presume the output of the panel would struggle to power both otherwise. 

Edited by 1animal1

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Texecom has by far the best DIY support.

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Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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Am I right in thinking i need to purchase the Texecom brackets for the PIR's? to secure to the ceiling? I'd have thought a bracket would be supplied...

 

Also - do you know what the com2400 is for - I'm hoping it's not yet another board that is required. 

 

Regards the app requirement - I can't really not have it as I need a remote function in case it goes off whilst at work. My pyre doesn't respond well to that type of noise and would probably become destructive given her reaction to a simple smoke alarm... 

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I believe they are extra, I'm personally not a fan of ceiling mounted PIR's (on a bracket) and prefer them in the corner as they were intended.


Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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I did wonder as previous systems I've fitted in other houses had a bracket of some sort, however small - What do you do when coving is fitted? fit beneath the level of the coving?

 

Reading it looks like the Comm2400 unit is for texts and data output.... use instead of wifi or LAN with the looks of things

Edited by 1animal1

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Yes beneath the coving level and cable up and behind.


Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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4 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

Only leaves a downstairs toilet and conservatory vulnerable.... 

 

 

Downstairs toilet probably a non issue. Conservatory would need a DT or a special quad. Garage would need to be DT also.

 

4 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

they also mentioned that i cannot use the app until I've updated the firmware to version 4 which may require me buying the firmware board (£20).

 

This is incorrect, you can use the app but there is no auto port forwarding so you need to setup router.

 

4 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

also confirmed the X3 box and running a 2nd X3 on low power mode or reactive?...presume the output of the panel would struggle to power both otherwise. 

 

You may get away with two live boxes on LC mode, you will need to do all your measurements for all your cabling and current consumption.

 

3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

Am I right in thinking i need to purchase the Texecom brackets for the PIR's? to secure to the ceiling? I'd have thought a bracket would be supplied...

 

 

They are extra but not needed

 

3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

 

Also - do you know what the com2400 is for

 

A plug on digi

 

3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

 

Regards the app requirement - I can't really not have it as I need a remote function in case it goes off whilst at work.

 

Just bear in mind the app is not guaranteed to signal you, may work most of the time but can be compromised.

 

2 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

What do you do when coving is fitted? fit beneath the level of the coving?

 

 

Us old skool engineers have the skill to drill up behind the coving and fish the cable through

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I'm glad I asked, that'll definitely look a lot neater. What do you do for confined spacess? Slight tilt off the coving? 

 

Six... Thanks for all of that. In order.

 

I'm going to leave the conservatory for now as it'll be  pulled down in the next year or so for a summer room... Noted DT spec pir for the garage.

 

Regarding setting up the forwarding for the app. Presume I can do this on the laptop?

 

I think I'm going to go with a dummy box for the rear, stick to a couple of led alternators, battery fed to simplify.

 

Regarding the app reliability. There's nothing I'm missing that would be more reliable is there other than gprs?

 

Thanks

 

Tim

 

    

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30 minutes ago, 1animal1 said:

What do you do for confined spacess? Slight tilt off the coving?

    

 

Huh?

 

32 minutes ago, 1animal1 said:

Regarding setting up the forwarding for the app. Presume I can do this on the laptop?

    

 

If you know what you are doing, maybe try researching port forwarding for your router.

 

35 minutes ago, 1animal1 said:

There's nothing I'm missing that would be more reliable is there other than gprs?

    

 

The main benefit of a professional installer is the option of "proper" monitoring, the connection is polled and any issues are sent to keyholders.

Your app connection is only as good as your broadband, no phone line and you have a bells only system with no indication that connection has been lost.

Not a lot of people realise this when they look at DIY and apps.

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8 hours ago, norman said:

Seems Dick is still angry...

 

Hates it so much he left the unhelpful forum months ago, vowing never to log in, read every thread, nor post...

 

...HANG ON A MINUTE!!

6 hours ago, norman said:

I believe they are extra, I'm personally not a fan of ceiling mounted PIR's (on a bracket) and prefer them in the corner as they were intended.

 

Agreed look fooking gash and the sign of the 199 brigade when used only to make life easier imho

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So, I've decided to take my work back underground.... to stop it falling into the wrong hands

 

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12 hours ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

Huh?

Just referring to something Norman had said about mounting without brackets - I assume a relative confined space like a hallway would require a slight mount on the coving to position the pir downwards?

Quote

 

 

If you know what you are doing, maybe try researching port forwarding for your router.

 

 

The main benefit of a professional installer is the option of "proper" monitoring, the connection is polled and any issues are sent to keyholders.

Your app connection is only as good as your broadband, no phone line and you have a bells only system with no indication that connection has been lost.

Not a lot of people realise this when they look at DIY and apps.

Yup I know what you mean re port forwarding - not ideal but a work around until it's worth running V4 I imagine.

 

I've always been conscious that the app will only be as reliable as my broadband which you can expect to drop out on occasion (daily, weekly, hourly! etc) - Save from paying for proper monitoring (I'm not looking for that level in all honesty) i think we'll be ok - might actually grab a cheapo fob from the bay and give it to my youngish retired neighbour. 

 

I can't thank you enough for helping me with this - I am now trying to put the right package together to get me what i need at a reasonable cost (my installer mate doesn't deal with Texecom or a supplier that sells them). Wish me luck!

Edited by 1animal1

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They are usually OK as normal in a hallway, takes a little more movement usually but fine in most cases. 

 

Have a look on Security Warehouse for texecom stuff. 

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Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.


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Ok main system bought - Elite 24-w Live, 3x QD-W PIR's (I'll be selling 2 of these in favour of wired, quads for LV room, Kitchen, Hall and landing, then DT for garage yes?), 1X contact-w (bought 2 more from Ebay @ £23 each), 2x smartkeys and a 3-W backplate which i'll also be selling in favour of the X range - unless i can get an X cover to fit this for the rear of the property. Next to buy is X-BE siren and cover, PC lead TBC depending on if i buy LAN or WIFI module, haven't found enough on Wifi module to discount it yet...considering LAN id more than double the cost. Premier Elite pad, just deciding on decore (it's with the wife!) - and i think I'll be needing some copper wire, amount TBC

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3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

I assume a relative confined space like a hallway would require a slight mount on the coving to position the pir downwards?

 

 

Never angle PIR's downwards they are all designed to be mounted perpendicular to the floor

 

3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

 

Yup I know what you mean re port forwarding - not ideal but a work around until it's worth running V4 I imagine.

 

 

This is no work around. Average alarm monkeys seem to struggle with port forwarding, they are trying to make it easier by using uPnP. Therefore, Texe hope to reduce the hours of technical support time.

 

3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

I've always been conscious that the app will only be as reliable as my broadband which you can expect to drop out on occasion (daily, weekly, hourly! etc) - Save from paying for proper monitoring (I'm not looking for that level in all honesty)

 

 

It's not service downtime you need to worry about, it's attack downtime.

 

2 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

 2x smartkeys 

 

Wouldn't have bothered they look nice but another gimmick IMO

 

2 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

TBC depending on if i buy LAN or WIFI module,

 

LAN if you can wire it, there is a reason the WiFi is half the price.

 

2 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

 i think I'll be needing some copper wire, amount TBC

 

Pure copper none of this CCA rubbish. Must be marked up as Type 2 now IIRC.

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43 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

Never angle PIR's downwards they are all designed to be mounted perpendicular to the floor

Noted :)

43 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

 

This is no work around. Average alarm monkeys seem to struggle with port forwarding, they are trying to make it easier by using uPnP. Therefore, Texe hope to reduce the hours of technical support time.

I came across port forwarding a few years ago back, doesn't it circumnavigate the routers own security? 

43 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

 

It's not service downtime you need to worry about, it's attack downtime.

How many houses actually have full service like this on average? Is it common or is it a nice to have for the middle/upper classes - I can't honestly ever seeing me needing this unless i have something i really want to protect as the way I see it, by the time they are in and the monitor has gauged that it is a real alarm and called the Police - they'll be gone

43 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

 

Wouldn't have bothered they look nice but another gimmick IMO

If you knew my missus you'd understand that one ;)

43 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

 

LAN if you can wire it, there is a reason the WiFi is half the price.

Both are wired via Wintex aren't they? and plug into the main board.... Is the Wifi cheaper due to bigger risk of drops outs linked to the quality of the Texecom product?

43 minutes ago, sixwheeledbeast said:

 

 

Pure copper none of this CCA rubbish. Must be marked up as Type 2 now IIRC.

Noted - 6 or 8 core for the remote panel? 

 

I've also called Texecom - the W plate is not compatible with the X cover - presumed that'd be the case but thought i'd check as they look similar on the online pictures

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3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

I came across port forwarding a few years ago back, doesn't it circumnavigate the routers own security? 

 

 

You can't have a inbound service through the firewall without an open port. Be it

 

3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

How many houses actually have full service like this on average? Is it common or is it a nice to have for the middle/upper classes - I can't honestly ever seeing me needing this unless i have something i really want to protect as the way I see it, by the time they are in and the monitor has gauged that it is a real alarm and called the Police - they'll be gone

 

Yep, possibly the intruders may have gone if you are thinking of a Police calling system, in a way it's done it's job.

You can have monitoring without Police response, the security with monitoring is in the fact the site is polled regularly.

If someone cut your phone line, for example, the monitoring station can alert you. You can then action appropriately yourself.

 

3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

Both are wired via Wintex aren't they? and plug into the main board.... Is the Wifi cheaper due to bigger risk of drops outs linked to the quality of the Texecom product?

 

 

They are Com Port modules and plug on.

Cheaper components.

Yes you are more likely for drop outs and it's another local attack point.

 

3 hours ago, 1animal1 said:

6 or 8 core for the remote panel? 
 

 

I'd use 8 cored cable as standard, spares and reducing voltage drop. You only require four cores for keypads.

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Thanks six, very much appreciated.

 

Next step I think will be to set it all out and do a table install/program,  at least for the wireless stuff.... Also fell a bit lucky in not having to rip the newly laid carpets up. Going to use the feeds in place to my old board in the garage as long as the continuity tests come up OK. Save a bit of hassle. 

 

    

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Strictly speaking, will I need a dt pir for the garage? Spiders are minimal as it is largely sealed. Only consideration is temperature fluctuations due to a wood paneled door   

 

    

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