sixwheeledbeast

Even if it's only 6 years old that's what happens with the lower end wireless market. When it's discontinued you can't get parts or support and they slowly fail. With all wireless you are trapped to the manufacturer you choose, that's part of the trade off with having no wires. You may be able to keep it going but it all depends on how much you rely on it. You've not done too bad at 6 years for a Powermax, I have pulled them out with less age on them due to failures.

Some of the earlier model bells did this type of thing before they failed completely, not seen that with the 740. I only know of the mains or wirefree bell options never seen a 12v option, the expander would allow for most SCB option wired bells but you would need alarm cable. The system is obsolete and only one way, I would say it's not worth spending on it and to upgrade.

If they are old fashioned surface contacts unscrewing them and taping them together with masking tape is what most window fitters do... Newer kit will have anti-tamper switches which would trigger the alarm on removal. Really you should consider having your alarm decommissioned properly if you have no intention of using it. Systems require servicing and have batteries that need replacing whether you arm it or not. Unmaintained systems are never too far away from going haywire (normally in the early hours) which isn't pleasant for you or the neighbours.

Annke, tat with leaked hardcoded root password, likely part of Mirai botnet if connected to internet.

In Keypad Setup. It's per keypad not global.

Taking it out of commission will probably do everyone a favour. Systems that are sat unmaintained are just asking for issues in the early hours. Currently a tamper fault on it too. For some reason it's common for people to think a security system will work forever with no maintenance.

It's an old Bentley Alpha 2/4 probably been in service for 40 years or more. "Know anything" is a bit too open ended question really.

Replacing a 2 Zone Bentley (ok in it's day) for a relatively budget G4 panel seems a bit of a downgrade. Decent panels would have give you EOL options. Years ago cable was relatively expensive so you often had situations where only the cable with cores required was used in each run. 6core to a PIR then 4core from there to a door and the like. Could also be what they had in the van to get it working, or some dodgy repair, who knows. Really it just needs those zones re-cabling instead of messing IMO,

Depends some do some don't. Your not going to be able to power it from some DIY Ring alarm thing so you'd have to cobble some flasher circuit together either way.

Some old LCD Gardtec not work bothering with?

Building work would be a good time to get cables in, you are the only person that can say what your priorities are. Speaking with your chosen installer about your plans, they can work something out for you.

The system is a Honeywell Domonial by the sounds of it. I don't know much about them (maybe discontinued now?) You should find an installer you are comfortable with to look at your system, if you don't like the quote ADT gave you. Personally I wouldn't support it and would recommend an upgrade, especially if it's never had any regular maintenance since it's been fitted.

Comfort LED yes

It's just for aesthetics really, often awkward and messy to wire and need cable down the middle of the window for ideal positioning. If it would look tidy or not retrofit would maybe wire.

Nope, use the Texecom Impaq ones unless I have to use proper Vipers for replacement (aesthetics/latch line etc) Mostly wireless shocks now if customer needs perimeter.

Sometimes the comfort light can stop if they haven't been triggered in a while, pretty normal for Vipers.

They flash red all the time with comfort on, latch line is solid light

You would only install multiple devices on one zone where you have no other option, situations like protecting a double door or roller shutter with two contacts. Having them on separate zones would mean you could have a confirmed alarm from one action which is not permitted for police calling.

This guy https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/43399-texecom-nvm-locked-panel/

Anything in the engineers menu would need the code and knowledge of how to set it up, this code would need resetting. As per our guidelines we do not provide defaulting or engineering manuals here.

"power burning, heating up relay"? A pull up resistor would dissipate the wattage across it as heat. Either way I think we are getting off topic you can test this with a meter it wouldn't need a load. If it's not switching then it's either not programmed correctly or blown. The reason it's common practice for installers use relays is for separation with any auxiliary device.

If you've never had it serviced in 20 years then standby batteries will be bust (hopefully not leaked acid all over the insides) and possibly damaged to the charging circuit. All you need is a power cut and you have no system. Maybe a good idea to have it looked at if you value it's purpose. Don't be surprised if recommended an upgrade or find something is bust, even if it appears to be setting fine.

That is correct it's something the installer would program for you, assuming a third setting can be done. Do you have an issue getting hold of your current maintainer? I assume you have it serviced regularly by someone.

As per our guidelines we don't provide that information here. i can only suggest you try codes you may think it could be. If the system is misbehaving due to a power outage then something is wrong with it and it's in need of a service visit, they will be able to reset the code for you at the same time.

Good practice on any radio tat IMO.