sixwheeledbeast

Yes it will be Connectv2 subscription via installer option.

Features wouldn't be available to DIY tho.

This is my point apps have a limited feature set for an alarm. Maintaining reliability of the system should be priority, upgrade for a better quality of system not the app. Push notifications are not guaranteed to get to you, they are not polled, dual path is better but still no guarantee without polling and can be defeated. They will get there most of the time but is that useful or a false sense of security? I would argue that push apps have more to go wrong than with a dialler, more components that could have downtime or connection issues on the way, send push and hope. Dialler would contact directly from site and keep trying until it gets through. Not recommending investing in a dialler either with ongoing changes to the phone networks but just pointing out all these devices have limitations when you are looking for alternatives to signalling via an installer. As for arming and disarming remotely, you would generally control the alarm when leaving or returning to the premises. Keypad should be on the entry route and are much more convenient than an app. Texecom app is developed, Connectv2 is released as I said there are now 3 versions out there, so no idea what reviews are talking about. Subscription stuff is only available on v2 to installers, basic functionality is available currently with free subscription.

It's the slide on fitment that makes the plastic flex, I do prefer it to the little screw in the middle tho. I remember it as a product name but never worked on one, bit like an Excel?

Well reviews on App stores I would always take with a pinch of salt, there's more to an alarm system than it's app. There are also 3 versions of Texecom apps now and latest having subscription features only via an installer. Shiny app but unreliable system would be pointless, so buying a system based on it's app is a bad idea IMO. Still of the opinion all apps are a false sense of security and offer very little, it's just the thing to have an app for everything. Either way you'll need a hybrid system if you want wireless devices, you can easily spend a fortune getting it wrong DIY. Had to fix plenty of jobs like that in my time.

Didn't play with a huge amount pre V7 but I remember the 888 and 8168 were similar to what is now export only 412/816/832, Veritas cabs and STU connections on a molex lead adapter, onboard digi. Did takeover a couple, the keyboard buttons didn't have hard plastic over the rubber membrane, made a big difference to the look and feel of the keypads. Back then the TS seemed miles ahead feature wise.

They refreshed the Premier, bumped all version numbers so all panel sizes were same at V7.0 firmware. Already out there just not too popular, lacking in features a little and had an odd menu structure with no shortcuts to get about.

Had more SMPS issues than Rick O'Shea problems... Have had the odd PIR false alarm or DT fail early on but generally install issues yer. Don't really touch Pyronix and pretty much every Risco system I have had to unfortunately deal with had some issue; not all wireless systems tho. The odd Galaxy I have had issues with contacts and the tamper buttons. It's all relative really that's part of why every installer prefers different kit, you wouldn't keep fitting it if you had a lot of grief with it. Give me a wired TS Menvier any day, if I were to pick an era for no hassle...

Bosch, Scanny Radioplus gave no trouble Rick O'shea I haven't had many issues with any I fitted, but I know some have. New Visonic alright decent range too. Powermax endless issues...

I would agree on solid but they are one way tho. Most one way stuff doesn't give grief it just silently stops working if it's tat.

You just need another Hybrid system to replace it with then. Plenty of options but manufacturer preference will vary by installer. Look for two way communication on the wireless parts if you actually want it to work. First question you need to think about is, are you looking to do this yourself or get a man in?

Texe would be type B red then, for a single door yes.

If that's what colours the instructions say? I haven't got one to hand, you would normally only cut one coloured loop from each row for one device IIRC. As al says if you are careful and cut at the top of the loop you could solder the link back closed again, if you get the wrong link. NC is a spare terminal (no connection)

There's a good few Karizmas out there still, some companies back in the day only fitted iD. But they are bound to cause an issue to the occupiers in the near future. NVM checksum issues, failing obsolete biscuits, lots wired star with four cored cable, your just kicking the can down the road not upgrading.

You need to break it down and work out why it's not triggering. So is it messed up programming in the dialler or it's input after that you know if to check output of the panel. They can get a surge up the phone line that damaged them but if test calls work that's unlikely in your case.

The system is an obsolete iD system, most are star wired this type of wiring is not like most alarm systems so they can be difficult to upgrade to a more traditional wired alarm. I would say it should be replaced sooner than later but if your leaving your unlikely wanting to be spending money on it. Regards replacement it all depends on the system but it's very possible you would need to start again wiring, sensors the lot. If you have been in engineers mode and it will not clear on leaving, it's likely still got a fault with that device, wire or biscuit if they aren't iD sensors. Someone that knows iD systems would likely sort it no problem even if you have to remove that device and have less on the system.

You can't buy ADT stuff new, I don't see why you would anyway.

Sounds like it may need user authorisation first. It's been a while since I worked on one even then it would have been a UK variant with EN options so maybe different.

Read instructions carefully cut the wrong links and you'll likely need another

You could change the zones and series the tampers like a global tamper if the old panel was double pole but for the cost of some decent contacts it's not a good idea.

You need resistors for your contacts or contacts with resistors built in would be best. Something like SC570/WH/MULTI for example. They don't provide resistors in any Texe stuff now.

I see some logic with the Poly cab, having the main terminal block close to the intruder wires. Rarely see them used, I don't think a lot of engineers know what it's for TBH.

I would keep the wires where possible or even install some new cables, I'd at least want to keep the bell wired myself. It's possible the hall sensor has been DIY resited or added on after.

Really this type of stuff is just junk to us. Most of us are based in the UK industry where property risk, kit availability and system standards are different.