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meditek

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  1. Hi folks, I took a break to update myself and :- a) I've aquired the Galaxy 2 install manual which b) informs me that a complete power down of the system restores the defaults such as the default engineer code ###### c)The manual also indicates that the tamper alarm can be stopped using the user code so plan is now d)Leave mains power on, remove cover (zapping tamper noise with user code), zap 12v battery connection, remove mains power fuze, whilst holding pillow over internal sounder until my 'jobbing' electrician gets the battery out if it sounds. External is dummy. e)remove phone line f) hopefully this will leave a default system readily accessible by anyone with the manual. No doubt there will be cries that it won't work but that was never my style. I'll report on events later.
  2. I have never suggested that the customer should know the engineer code from the start. My suggestion was that the customer should have a code of his own making to be used to shut down the system when he no longer required it which would be as secure as his customer access code. I've left the handling of the system entirely to ADT when I required it but now simply want to disable it and nothing will convince me that ADT don't make it difficult so they can bag another £200. Not surprised as I feel my my mails have been scanned rather than read. I do not have a man with a hammer coming either because I want the chips intact to amuse myself with during this epidemic. I've noticed my electrician getting snide remarks here and don't like it. I anticipated cancellation so insured the place with no alarm Not had a sensible response to any of my other points as obviously you've all got vested interests in alarm systems and simply sing the lingo. My mistake coming here. Bye
  3. Programming..Have to say I was under the impression Honeywell supplied the bare bones and the engineer simply added the muscle etc. I was in IT programming from the mid 70's so I'm interested in what language the engineer writes the program in and how he accesses the hardware because I'll probably have a fiddle when it's out? Incidently, by wipe I mean't a proper one that takes a few days like the US gov standards. SSD's are lump hammer material though. Peter, leaving it where it is and not using it would suit me but BT are swapping our phone to cable which it will react to as I suppose it would when the battery finally dies. Power outages set it bleeping and we have 2-3/annum. Re the customer wipe code I suggested. Generation could be by the customer himself at installation thus the method of generation would be random as is the customers access code. As they do a lot of management online, I asked whether they could neutralise it online. NO. I have to say most of the security reasons applied to revealing the engineer's code are equally true of the customer code imho. Incidently, I found and lost a Gov report suggesting that Engineer codes must be unique to the installation though whether that is the law yet I don't know.
  4. No more crackable than the present used a lot user and engineer codes (which are probably all the same for all this model). Nobody's managed to crack Apple's Iphone access codes yet despite putting the FBI onto it. My issue is entirely about being left with a system still controlled by ADT after I cancelled my contract and being asked to pay for release. If they were concerned about software rights they would have a system in place to wipe it as one does with a hard disk if you're selling it. I was under the impression that Honeywell designed the software and ADT simply used it so it's odd that they can claim intellectual property rights.
  5. Thank you all for your opinions. Maybe all customers should be given a use once 'engineering' code that they can use when they terminate; which disables the system after informing ADT of it's use. Meanwhile, the service engineers code protects the system from being taken over by another outfit but this wouldn't ensure the £198 +vat to extract you from the situation they put you in I suppose.
  6. Decided that as an 80+ year old with a clumsy left hand due to a stroke that it would be simpler to get our friendly electrician to do it while I held a pillow over the noise box. He's coming next week and says it will only take about 15 mins and will be vastly cheapear than the £198+vat that ADT threatened to charge. ADT claim the alarm sold to me is now mine but refuse to give me the required info to remove it unless I pay out to get an engineer out to fix it so it's not mine at all! No doubt there is a crafty clause in the paperwork to cover this little scam but I threw it out when I cancelled the contract so can't check. I've asked trading standards their opinion. Very much like buying a car and the seller refusing to give you the info on how to stop it.
  7. "f you didn't think my previous post was constructive enough then just give it a go with some ear plugs and whack anything that makes a noise with a lump hammer... You don't mention what system you have and even so they are all different depending on the system design. May need ladders to reach the outside box, you may not if SAB is inside. Either way you will not do it silently if the system works properly." System is Honeywell Galaxy 2-12 Co12 and I was informed by the fitter that the outside box is a dummy. I expected ADT would permanently disarm it remotely when I cancelled the contract but they didn't. Thanks
  8. Which is exactly why I am asking for advice. I do have the advantage of knowing my systems user code so please could you advise on the points that I will probably have to enter it to shut the damn thing up, Some constructive advice would be a bonus.
  9. 1. Rethe sab type. Am I correct in assuming this means that cutting the wire will allow the internal alarm bell to sound despite being cut off from the main box's 12v supply? Box outside is fake btw. 2. Do I need a lump hammer too?
  10. Hi, hope this is the correct forum for this. I recently cancelled my ADT monitored alarm as I no longer required it. I expected ADT would collect the alarm stuff but they want me to pay an undisclosed amount for an engineer. I turned that one down and decommission it myself. I thought I'd check here to see if what I intended would work OK :- 1. cut the power. 2. cut the phone lead. 3. be ready to enter my code if it goes off. 4. snip the lead to the speaker before 5. whipping the cover off and snipping the battery leads. Anything I've missed? I'm hoping this will be a relatively silent process. I am assuming the alarm speaker does not have a backup battery? Thanks
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