sixwheeledbeast

I'd also be thinking bandwidth. Does it have it's own infra or are you on a network with other stuff? Are all the uplinks suitable for the bandwidth?

Issue with Exodus is they don't have built in sounders so if the system sounder fails you have no fire alarm, not good. Wouldn't advise having multiple devices on one zone if you can't latch them. Would just wire like any normal sensor(s) but they don't have a tamper switch, so that would just terminate to a spare terminal then back to the panel.

I assume the system hasn't been serviced in a while? Battery may have not been able to support the system or there could have been a surge when the power came back on. If the keypad is unresponsive you may need an engineer to check it over, power cycle and reprogram it if required.

Depends on the house for me, i have no issue with two. However, I would sooner have a single of decent stuff instead of multiple of budget stuff.

Don't fit them but looking at the datasheet with 350mA current I would suggest to check this.

Some boxes can't do this in which case you need another power supply.

If there aren't enough zones it needs a bigger panel.

You don't want this to happen in the first place as that would trigger the outside bell hold off when mains and battery are missing. Programming should be stored in non-volatile memory but it can be possible for memory to be lost on older kit if the system is faulty.

There will be a resistance threshold for closed loops but the lower the better, usually it's around 100-200 which you don't want to be near, but will vary on panel. Issue is diagnosing future issues when you have multiple devices on a circuit, as above.

Well then the battery is also likely duff too. They need regular servicing to be reliable. Checking the tamper return voltage with a DMM would be a start.

Why does it need an "engineer reset"? Sounds like the external box is duff to me but would need further diagnosis with a meter.

From what i can make of your description its wired wrong. Hopefully a +ve on both tampers hasn't blown the panel or bell. SAB/SCB mode will be irrelevant to get it working.

Well if it works just bung it in and use the formatting tool on the recorder? Windows can't read ext partitions. Would make sense for them to be ext something.

Being embedded Linux it wouldn't necessarily be NTFS. Would use a Linux live ISO for checking drives like this. What do you want to do with them?

Further diagnosis with a multimeter is required. The least likely thing popping the fuses would be the panel. Replacing only the panel will rule out a keypad but there are many other parts of the system.

192.168.x.x are private IP addresses that are only available to devices within the LAN. That wouldn't rule out an external address or peer-to-peer connections being accessible from the internet. It's possible he doesn't want the password messing with so you don't mess something the configuration up. You should be able to trust your installer, if not then ask yourself why you choose them in the first place.

I suppose a cheap DVR would be the most cost effective to turn CVBS into IP. You also wouldn't need an IP address for each just login to the DVR. You can also get Phono to BNC converters so you don't need to remake the cables.

The police will have been back tracing from the photos they found. Your ISP keep logs of which dynamic IP's are dished out for things like above.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-57156799

"NBN" like Openreach, down under? Bear in mind we are a UK based site but feel free to expand on your issue as above.

Yes, either the battery or something with the the system is faulty. Maybe a blown fuse or something more serious. Power cuts should never cause alarm systems to become unusable or false alarm, if they do they are unmaintained and a sound pollution nuisance to neighbours. If your system becomes a continuous nuisance your local authority have the rights to force entry to your property and disable it then resecure, leaving you with a bill for these services in the process on your return.

Does the system have a maintainer? If so you would be best to speak to them modifying the system would void any warranty with them. I don't know for this panel but the values given for an amps impedance would normally be minimums. If you have a 16ohm installed then I would aim for that.

You would try to match the impedance recommended for the panel (often 16ohm) but will vary by panel. This is the balance of poor volume or shorting the amp circuit out.

The one way Visonic is all discontinued, any in service won't have much life left before something fails, newer stuff is two way and seems more reliable. It's possible but your stuck with only using ADT devices and you need to know how to program it all up if you default everything.

Had the occasional one where a power cycle makes it go away. Have you checked everything over with a meter? You replaced the whole panel then?