sixwheeledbeast

I assume this MCM140 is connected to some obsolete one way Powermax thing? It could be out of range, lost it's programming/ faulty. Only seen one it was a pain... As usual with the old Powermax stuff delete and re-enroll can fix or it maybe for the bin.

It's always been an argument of ethics over covering liability. I have no issue with it as long as the company don't go pop and leave customers with locked panels. You can see the argument both ways.

You can debug from engineer menus which is active live but they trigger the same zone.

Reclaimed sea, a good portion is below sea level. They don't think there will be much left if sea level continues to rise, bit like Norfolk. You can't stop the North Sea I suppose.

Trip to the Nederlands...

64W-LIVE is the replacement, can get in kit form and break up.

Whatever works, keypads have zones. Ethernet in garage just do it like two sites then would be easiest leave the house alone.

That's why I say Areas would need 48 for 3 areas, or 24 with 2. Only issue with self contained is outbuildings won't have app like you mentioned, unless you can get wifi over there.

If the keypad is wireless for these outbuildings then some detection would be wireless? therefore I don't see how you are not getting wireless "just for a keypad". From what a can gather I wouldn't be programming part arms alone on this system I would be using local areas. All depends how the user wants to use the system for programming. I avoid Hikvision anything, so can't comment on your other query.

I try to avoid flush on external in case of moisture. If I have to sealed type to a JB would be my preferred.

Going off what I recall of previous thread, above was already suggested plus pets.

This is the sensible solution, you will then have an idea on coverage and also setup instructions to work from to make your decision. You don't always have an opening where it maybe the best location to place a shock. So normally separate unless you know the kit will work there. Wireless are often combined units depending on manufacturer, but you have a bit more flexibility with aesthetics then because no wires. Not saying you should fit wireless, just a observation that you can then have everything fitted and worry about positioning after with wireless.

I would probably go separate unless aesthetics determines otherwise, would need to see the frames to work out positioning of shocks then you can go from there. If positioning of shock means you can't use combined that answers your question. Either way if combined I'd want something that signals activations from each detection separately.

Good for selling CCTV and also recommend drive bollards if they have keyless. I wouldn't have one, don't do contactless cards either. Usually recommend putting keys in fridge, microwave could cause a pop if switched on for some strange reason. Hard drive antistatic bags work ok for contactless cards and light sets of keys. Even without keys in range some cars will disappear if targeted before hand and no physical security.

You can, but you shouldn't.

Modem mode and a proper router.

All systems should show alarm, tamper and (if radio) battery faults separately, it's an important part of diagnosing a false alarm event. Unless you wire something up wrong, an alarm is the sensor triggering be that a fault or the environment.

As I said above just ignore it. Not used zones will not matter.

The terms "Interior" and "Bypass" are not UK English terms, 816 was part of "International series" panels. Factory default as instructions is factory default so everything as factory... I think your just getting confused with Wintex or something? You probably only need to make the spare zones Not Used and test regarding wiring type.

I don't believe there is anything wrong with the components, something is just not programmed or wired correctly from what I can gather. Use the factory default procedure as explained in the manual, we don't provide default information here. I am assuming this isn't a UK system as the language is not set to UK English? You also mention a 816 which isn't a UK panel. Or maybe the Elite24 is UK English but you last screenshots are a 816?

I'd say above. Could default and start again, then only program out what has no wires. This rules out all the settings you've played with. I don't believe Zone Status updates in Wintex if set Not Used?

I don't see a point in doing these tests if your wiring DEOL anyway? Put all the network and system back and work on each fault. Reset and see what is left. Repeat.