sixwheeledbeast

IBT reading was done in 2014 and read 9Ah. How old it the battery (code on the top) and does it rattle.

I would guess there not set to the correct zone type.

Your saying SPC is better than I Premier I guess? Well never really used an SPC but I doubt it's something you would use from a 4 zone domestic right up to a 640 zone hybrid wireless? As I say I couldn't compare having not used one, but IMO the Premier range is on par with the standard commercial panels you see. Also it's worth keeping on topic, OP is looking for a suitable replacement for a domestic panel.

Swap the cabinet. Mounting holes are the same.

Eh?

Why not? Has been for a few years (Ver.2.x.x) for basic features.

If you need to change the firmware, unlikely for DIY

Doesn't matter the MCS730 is for the Powermax anyway. They have different sirens but look the same.

I have said all this before, many local councils and contractors have no idea of the guidelines there suppose to adhere to on road maintenance. Its all made to look amusing by the media but some of these incorrect signs, road markings and even road layouts cause injury and death every day.

Collectors item?

I agree with DD, it would be something like a Premier 24 for me minimum on all installs. Not worth fitting single loop tampers and LED keypads anymore IMO. Maybe if it's quick swap like for like and an old dear is used to it but otherwise not worth bothering.

It's the company, it would appear that the last thing on there mind is security when you leave back doors in your firmware, time and time again. All of these security issues could be fixed but seem to insist on small temporary patches to keep costs down. Product quality is slightly above par with the rest of the tat out there but seen similar failure rates as SIA. They are like the Windows of the DVR world, obfuscation over security. This is a tasty carrot for someone into cracking this stuff, large attack surface. Unlike Texe it will be less about adding features/fixes and more about forcing a root and password reset

16 Ohm impedance yes but the resistance is not far away from nominal impedance, especially on the end of a piece of cable. Getting around 14 ohm on a meter would be my first test before taking things apart too. I would check you have terminated them in the correct place on the panel, common apprentice mistake is to mis-terminate the speaker due to the split between the terminal blocks. Also make sure it is a speaker and not a 12v sounder which would normally contain a small PCB for the tone driver.

Well done for bumping a 13~ year old thread, regarding alarms in motorhomes. I certainly don't agree with the comments on Optex above. For the OP I would say other types of detector are more suited to fitting in vehicles, see Breff's post. As for domestic alarms I would always fit Quads as a minimum and commercial would be DT's. Considering £12 was considered cheap end back then, a lots changed price wise.

When you say wired and wireless, I assume you mean the signalling and not the system as that would be two separate things.

Short piece of scaffy pole and no he used a pair of moleys.

I snapped a cylinder that had gone faulty (slipped cam) last week to get into a premises. I also agree with above, you are sold expensive doors with multipoint locking systems and many fit cheap cylinders as standard. Friend had a Rock Door fitted recently, the handle fitted with the screws heads outside and the most basic euro cylinder. This replaced a five lever mortice in a hard wood door.

Yep, similar to my initial post The shiny polished table? I don't really rate I-Wise, had weird environmental FA's with them, although many here don't agree. Still your point is, sometimes your left with nothing to go on and have to replace anyway?

The detectors have a minimum and maximum height in the manual so take that into consideration. If it activated in the morning this indicates my suspicion of sunlight is likely.

It's likely to be detecting some temperature changes in the room, but it's hard to comment without seeing the system. I also prefer to fit wired system myself, with my preferred brand of sensors. Fitting wireless ties you to the panel manufacturer for sensors. I have on occasion been called to the odd unexplained FA from Radio Texecom QD's and Compacts in the past, which resulted in a DT replacement. In most of these instances the sensor was subject to facing a window or heat source (poor positioning), or facing into a room where direct sunlight entered the room. For example, someone having issues if they where on holiday but never while they where home, due to not drawing the curtains. The quad's have been improved recently but if in doubt would fit a DT.

As it's not been mentioned yet, it's best practice to setup a VLAN or the like as an extra layer of protection so your DVR can't be used to attack the rest of your devices on the network. When you port forward a device to the external internet you are entrusting this device to be secure as it will be a weak point in the firewall. Alternatives are VPN's as mentioned above, this will limit you to one device though. Unless you have multiple devices setup for the VPN

Check for the resistors at the end of the BUS with a meter?

http://qvisglobal.com/knowledge-base/support-section-software-mobile-phone-applications/mobile-phone-applications

Best to try defaulting with just the panel on a short test wire to the keypad, making sure all tampers are closed.

Did you check the system voltages and charging rate when the battery was replaced? It could also be that the battery has failed again, have you tried resetting on mains alone? Could there be another fault with field wiring or equipment, you would need to disconnected and isolate things correctly one by one to test this.