PeterJames

it looks like this

When you press the buttons can you hear them beeping ? If the usual code is not working and the factory code is not working then its probably died. The link is the the left of the LEDs the other side of the NVM chip

So are you saying that it wont silence when you enter the code? Try the factory code 1234 0123 1111 its one of those (it must be 30 years since I programmed a rascal)

I am not even sure why you came here? you obviously know better than we do. Defaulting the panel back to factory settings will not fix your problem, it will just give you another one,you will need to re-program it. So ill ask one more time what is it that not working on your panel? What lights are on?

Is there no phone number on the outside box? If not I would start by phoning the mobile you have and asking if they are the installer. If no answer then I would recommend searchin for a accredited company on the NSI or ssiab website you can search using your postcode

Bonjour! L'amiral Nelson dort dans mon jardin

Before you do can you order me an ounce of Moroccan

I cant see that a text message would effect a dialler or any GSM device designed to send signals

Sorry no contact details in posts allowed https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/

Sounds like an expensive bh weekend. we (as a co) wont attend non contracts out of hours and if you find one that does expect to pay £2-300 plus vat per hour. Id advise cut the internal sounder wires and wait till Tuesday

I wouldnt be attempting to default its unlikely to be a programing issue. It depends on your interpretation of reset and ours. What lights are on on the panel? Oh and btw you should be replacing the battery every four years not every ten or fifteen, leaving it that long will definately feck the the charging circuit especially if you are buying your battery from a DIY store thats had them sitting around for years and are not rotating them

In order to help we need more info. What lights are on? What is happening not happening, saying that the panel wont reset could mean lots of different things, it doesnt give s much to go on. its as much help as your blurry picture

Are you sure that the panel reported the batteries in the external sounders were failing? It doesnt do this for wired sounders.

Press star hash or the other way round, once the panel is shut. as SWB make sure the lid is closed properly. The panel is 30 years old though so it may just be knackered

Good point, well put

What do you think it means? Think about what you are trying to achieve and then ask yourself that question again.

Your question isnt clear but I guess you are asking about connecting the fire alarm to the access control to release the doors when the fire alarm goes off. To be compliant you should wire them in series with the locks not into the controller, they should in the event of a fire drop the power to the lock as default. If you wire them to an input on the Paxton and programming the paxton to release the doors, then you are reliant on the Paxton kit working when a fire breaks out which then means the Paxton has to be compliant to BS5839 which its not

I think its a bit late now to encourage him to improve, I think you would have made a great teacher though.

Omnicrom horrible DIY panels 30 years ago, sold in Maplins. i would guess it hasnt been serviced in a long while I would say that if it had, the battery would have prevented this from failing. But that said the Omnicrom used to fail if you sneezed near it. Most good engineers wouldnt touch it, and those that have regret it

Call the company that serviced it, I would say they didnt do a proper job those panels clicking normally means the battery is pulling the PSU down. The panel is over 30 years old now soif it cannot be resuscitated you have had your moneys worth out of it. Sterling 10 were never a good panel when they were new, there cant be many of those around now

iirc scantronic have an electronic fuse for charging, try down powering and powering back up, bear in mind your battery is probably flat now anyway. If your previous battery was over 4 years old chances are the charging circuit was already on its way out. Ideally you need a multimeter to check whats going on, without one your like a blind man without his white stick

And you boys take the p out of me because I come from Brighton

Not sure if that was a typo, Its back light compensation as the name suggest it adjusts the iris to compensate for backlight when the camera is looking at an area that will have a lot of light like entrance doors etc. DN digital noise ALC/ELC is whether the lens is controlled by the lense or the camera Auto light conditions/ Electronic light condition BS not sure

Nah its Firkum Hall

Soffits, boards between the garage and house and Artex I think the chimney may be lined as well