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Cunts that text and drive want their fingers broken never mind banned.

well I guess that's me on the naughty step - If you want to be an alarm man get a job with an alarm company. You not going to get any much experience buying tat from ebay, reading books or asking on an alarm themed forum

yes if you have posted your serial no for your bell box we could have located it on the internet, selected abba on your alexa & turn the central heating up to maximum...

My last post on this forum was nearly 5 years ago. I have came out of retirement to tell you this... I down-voted your last post.

Until someone invented something that puts our industry in jeopardy

there ain't none, however there are a set of big boys rules.... when taking other peoples tat over you either have to the product knowledge of how to over come any lock or quirks of the product or have enough £ in the job to put your own stuff in from either the start or retain the subscriber for enough years to make it pay.. confiture demain, as you might say ? Sadly a few hundred quid for new control can be a problem as the subscribers can be living had to month with the latest I-Phones, Range Rovers & shirt sponsoring the local professional sports team... taking priority

I'd give 'em a new system provide they have maintenance & out the yale tat on ebay or in the bin if don't sell...

If your looking for a security forum with no pisstaking.... you've made the wrong choice You'll need an eng code to make programming changes to your system, a 1/2 decent alarm monkey could probably move all your devices about with just a customer code

you do chat shit.... ADT employ the very best & sometimes the very worst engineers, However there the market leading co. why don't you try & get a job there & get some real world experience of alarms ?

I don`t think, £13 a month for an annual inspection, 24 hour support, and use of a Smartphone APP is not bad value for money, technicians have to be trained, which be available 24 x 7, if self employed they also have to pay for life`s little things, food, fuel, Public Liability Insurance, fund there own training time, none of which is paid etc etc. funny how people accept paying say for a Private Dentist, Doctor, Solicitor etc, but fail to realise the vast amount of knowledge a professional installer has to collect from experience. To be fair, we use bundles of Agility 3, but really there is little money in the initial sale, for us, maintenance is where we make our money to provide on going technical support, technicians and all the other things we need to pay. For example today we are having our Upgrade NSI inspection from NSI for ISO 9001:2015, so I`m paying £450 per day for NSI & £440 per day for our Contract Quality Assurance Consultant, all paid by maintenance contributions, and all to retain our Gold Status, end of.

Oh dear "Jock McTightSporran" is asking a forum which mainly populated alarm monkeys why their employed. What goes wrong with your simple house alarm? Well there will be at least 2 battery's which don't last forever, reed contacts which will eventually fail (open or closed) or cause false alarm.... same for the relays within powered sensors Checking a bells only system annually as per BS/EN ensures they work correctly (think MOT) if you where a paying subscriber you could have your system in working order rather spending your spare time hunting down a manual for the old tat of an alarm on your wall. However you pays your money & make your choice, Power down the "skip fodder" of an alarm system & restart it on mains power only, with all tamper & lids close it made take you code If not buy something like a veritas 8 & new battery & have a bash at sort it Or find a local alarm co. (proper ones might only do the work if their maintaining it) & ask for cost of them updating the system

If it is so simple why are you talking about wiring normally closed detectors in parallel or dualtechs for detecting bricks? My question was because your initial few posts seemed like you were a sparky who had bitten off more than you can chew on a clients job. Happy bodging.

Exactly Norman, hence why I am asking the question on a professional security forum. Haven't fitted many myself but thought I would seek advice. Nothing worse than fitting ***** that you keep getting called back for.

All master blasters must be fitted directly above the keypad for use on bell tests

Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Wait until you try prising the sounder apart on a ladder....

direct account, you deal with the manufacturer rather than a wholesaler. Probably as ADI had little interesting in flogging it when they've shifting a boat load of other tat already ? You also loose your "exclusive" when ADI do decided to distribute it...

don't buy her any xmas of birthday pressies util she's paid my invoice ?

yes you could, however lets say £100 per yr ? let say the visit costs £50, 1 man 1 hour of travelling & on site time , 30mins of admin time, including a vehicle NI pension & all that stuff that's less than £1 a week to provide a 365 day 24hr service, with out maintenance in place you'll be unlikely to find anyone who'll want to repair an alarm at short notice or out of hours you may find that having the alarm maintained is a requirement of dad's contents insurance, I'd advise checking the policy before making changes however if you don't want it don't have it, well your dad will have to inform the provider in writing ...

if your panel has key switch input ? (I only remove 'em) - 5 - 32volt sonoff, However the correct advice is have something fit for propose. The people you annoy with your alarm(s) will have a local council have a website with similar advice - Noise pollution - Burglar alarms Burglar Alarms If you have a burglar alarm fitted to your home or business then by law you have a duty to ensure that it will not cause a nuisance to residents in the locality. eg prevents them from sleeping If this occurs, and the alarm is not turned off, then the council can take further action. If the Council is required to deal with an alarm causing a statutory nuisance, the owner will be asked to pay any costs incurred. There a number of steps you can take to ensure your alarm does not cause a nuisance. Ensure that any alarm fitted to your premises is properly designed. (The British Standard for intruder alarms is 4737 - your alarm should comply with this). Ensure that a legitimate alarm engineer, who will be able to set the sensors to the appropriate sensitivity, fits your alarm. This will prevent the alarm sounding unnecessarily. Ensure that an alarm engineer, ideally on a contract, maintains your alarm regularly so that you don't forget! Ensure that your alarm is fitted with a cut-off device to deactivate the siren or bell after 20 minutes. Ensure that at least one of your nominated key holders can respond within 20 minutes of being called out. What happens when the Council gets involved when an alarm causes a statutory nuisance? Once the Police are satisfied that there is no criminal activity taking place at the premises, and the Council is satisfied that the noise of the alarm is causing a statutory nuisance, then a legal notice will be served requiring the alarm to be silenced - normally within a short period of time. If this is not complied with then an application will be made to the Duty Magistrate for a warrant to enter the premises. The Council will engage the services of a locksmith and an electrician, and they will obtain access to the premises and disconnect the alarm. The Council will ensure that upon leaving, the premises is left in a secure condition. This whole process may take several hours. Who has to pay if an alarm has to be disconnected? The costs incurred by the council during this process will be recharged to the occupier of the premises. This can be expensive and will include the Council's costs, the costs of the locksmith and the electrician.

If the alarm is in good working order, having the power off a few hours wouldn't cause any issues. It's a common misconception that alarms sound if the mains goes off but that is actually a sign they are unmaintained and faulty. PA would likely activate if connected, so you would need the code before you can silence it. I assume any monitoring would be cancelled at this point but worth checking that too.

Just asking? More than just asking dude ...... You mean like special brew ? Your favourite?

I don't like this attitude, condescending to rule out everybody else's opinion as childish because it doesn't align with your opinions. Maybe your not but it comes across that way. Remember most trade contributors have decades of experience screwing boxes of electronics to walls with some effort of providing security and detection. If this is the type of answer you are looking for then it's a different topic of conversation about the industry as a whole, it's a massive bag of worms difficult to put in one post... You contradict yourself in the same post, your not in the industry but they replied to your support ticket. I'm not surprised BTW. I don't think any company can truly ignore a request for support it just looks bad, this is where they have to strike some balance and were installers would prefer they at least had priority. It's always been the same anyone can get hold of any kit, I don't feel you can withhold basic support in this instance. Just like with any other products not in the industry. The issue is you can't teach someone how to fit a "pro" alarm system via a support ticket or a forum, engineers have had years of training or apprenticeships to understand how it all fits together and apply it. This is were prosumer or DIY falls apart IMO, it's not just about the product it's about the knowledge and application of it. The "pro" gear has also had years of tweaks, specifically for the UK market to make it adaptable for every installation and engineers are trained and get support on it. You can't condense years of installer knowledge on security into a prosumer product or make a DIY install manual. The grading thing your asking about is sort of irrelevant for this instance, you can only fit a graded system as a company. It's the whole fitted system that "becomes graded", the component parts of the system have to conform but the system is graded as a whole. So outside of the industry it means very little unless you understand what each grade means and have knowledge of each standard that parts correspond to. We also have different variations on top of the EN standard in the UK too, we refer back to BS4743 and then we have BS8243 as some examples. The other points Al alluded to is who tested the kit conformed? Has it had third party testing for the UK market? At best it's unproven along side established products. The UK market is very different and why I believe lot of this "tat" is pitched as prosumer/DIY were I could see a company fitting it in the rest of the EU. It's also pointless to try and break into a market that has plenty of options with a new product that does similar to what your engineers are trained on. Also any product could claim it's two way but only have one component two way (cough, powermax tat) this is where marketing comes in. Unless you understand how this type of kit functions in a activation, what the spec sheet or marketing says means very little.

Sorry don't get excited, I don't recall working on one either, but just a word of caution I suppose. You have to consider it's a life safety system, its one thing fumbling though programming on intruder worst case in most instances if something was wrong would be a fail to operate and possibly damage or stolen items, not advised but it's not life. It depends on if you are just providing operational checks or if your expected to repair faults and re-commissioning, you would only need Level 2 access for the former. I know you didn't put yourself in this position when sales want to takeover any old tat but it is worth mentioning to them it's kit that none of the engineers know how to use properly, if something needs adjusting. Your right not everyone knows everything about every piece of kit but this is why companies have a list of preferred kit, try to stick to it and train there engineers on it. Leaves less to go wrong.

Pick up the phone & call xyz alarms they'll repair it & place it on maintenance contract, oddly the maintained alarms give much less problems than unmaintained alarms ? or lob a battery at it & wing it.....

Thanks for letting me know, but any way I wasn't looking for any answer here. Not sure if it's ok to reply to posts with unrelated messages but I will slow my self this time. I'm just very new in this forum and still trying to catch up with the local culture.

I'm growing to like the sound of a master blaster in an empty warehouse...

dont know it but even the micromax has an input. Id assume it was wired wrong. Once met someone that thought wiring the breakglass to the rte was better than breaking the power as it allowed for programming!!!

it appears "cooper security" have a new product range ?

I'm currently working on a virtual RIO module as part of something that I want for my own home automation. I'll sell this for the bigger panels like the FX100+ and GD96 upwards, as they have lots of links available. The virtual RIO sits on the RS485 bus and will consume 4 addresses, giving 16 outputs and 32 inputs in virtualised form. On my own system, I currently have lots of outputs programmed to switch lights, heating and garage door Etc, but I either control them from the app, or guard codes. I've been looking at OpenHab, so would like a way for linked zones with virtualised outputs to provide the OpenHab 'things' with status update calls over IP. There shouldn't be any reason that the virtualised RIO cannot send the calls to any other controller, it's just a matter of the appropriate protocol. This is basically what some of these other hardware vendors do for Vista, but instead of the compatible device, they physically hook into the existing zones and outputs wiring. This would cause an issue for the Galaxy, as it uses balanced circuits, so any external influence on the circuits would cause problems. The virtual RIO will only need connected to the bus and an Ethernet connection, so a simple addition. Since the inputs and outputs are programmable, it's entirely up to the person who configures the system as to the level of control allowed. An input call to the virtual RIO could set a zone as active and in turn fire another physical panel output, or set the system. Basically anything that the panel is capable of. For me, I think the timers and sequence based logic is limited on the Galaxy, and that's where the home automation excels.

I am glad you found the forum useful, forums are generally for discussion on topics which you were a part of over your 10 posts. Multiple people in the trade answered your initial question within 1 hour during the weekend, which you would do well to find anywhere else. If you would like some over-opinionated social media bull, lecturing, false information or useless memes, feel free to ask your questions on twitter or facebook in the future.

All members are free to up or downvote

Stop brown nosing the vetter.

Leave it in your freezer over night in a plastic bag and it defaults

Probably for the best, otherwise you may end up like DD...

I note you don't collect vintage hoovers...

Oh I don't know about that, I've seen Al Yeti logged in in the early hours...

I am still getting plenty of people applying for trade without posting, I am unable to put you as trade if you have not made at least five posts, the system will not let me so post if you want trade access. If you cant follow these simple instructions then try facebook there is a security forum on there that seems to be full of plums that cant read.

How's that texecom panel doing?

Mess of wiring, tape covering joints, 10 zones on 8 zone panel and seems to have no tampers. Burn marks around R69, D1, D3 and D13 indicate the panels PSU has probably been overloaded and the components will be tired. If it was a decent system in good order it would be worth looking after, but I'd rip it out myself TBH.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haynes-Car-Manual-Mk2-Fiesta-Xr2-/152843816501

ripley.... £120 believe it or not

Make sure you keep an eye out for software updates as they are rolled out for all platforms. https://www.armis.com/blueborne/

I think the above is where you went wrong Ray. If you go back prior to this statement most people giving up their free time to help you were quite willing. Think about the above statement, you come to a website full of people making a living out of security and make out that a 10 year old with chock block tourrettes could do their job. What sort of reaction did you think that would provoke?? Its a bit like us saying anyone can run a Cafe but it would seem not, looking at your reviews. Your alarm system is very poorly installed but I suspect that you didnt really do any homework before your purchase like check reviews or see if they were approved, at least if you had chosen an approved co you could complain to the Worshipful Company of Security Installers and Brethren Of Domotics (Plymouth Chapter). Someone has probably already mentioned this, but changing the detectors to dualtechs will not detect bricks btw, bricks are not burglars. The alarm going off after the window was smashed would not have made any difference either. The window would still be broken and the unhappy customer would still have run away long before anyone noticed.

Your controls are a bag of shit which don't meet any std, blunt but true...

Ahh that one, the dimsum jingaling loveyoulongtimex22 model? good image? many failures?

nah, like alarms I'll be working too close to c#nts everyday

a paid adverts Texecom approved/ registered means fuck all, I could get my goldfish signed up... we'd be above £60 for for visit, TBH most of the site is petty piss taking ? Buy metal cased premier, 7ah is okay depending how much kit is powered of it

As a beginner you need to understand that this is a professional security forum, as such posting engineering codes in the public area or any other area for that matter is not permitted, why I hear you ask? Well when you are supplying security on a professional basis you leave yourself wide open if someone posts your engineering codes for all to view on a public website. Your customers would not like it if someone posted your engineer codes, and its the same for anyone else. Its not done. Any professional security installer would not need to ask for other companies engineers code, as any professional company would default the system and re program it, it is the only way you know that the system is programmed correctly. Only lazy unprofessional numpties ask for other companies engineer codes, try and remember that and maybe you will get past the beginner stage.

Quite often burglars are drug users. The purpose of a strobe is if the burglar has dropped an e recently and they see a strobe light they will stop what they are doing and start dancing like a loon. The strobe can keep them dancing for up to 12 hours, which is almost long enough for police to attend and catch them. If they can be bothered.