sixwheeledbeast

Sannce are one of the Chinese rebrands that have there root password in Mirai.

It would be pretty rare to have a duff panel, if your going to blow something you would likely only break one circuit. having all the circuits do the same makes me still think a programming option. As I said I know Texe stuff pretty well but we rarely see international series over here, so I couldn't point you to the exact programming option from if that is what the issue is. My advice for testing panels zones would be to remove ALL other wiring (to remove possibility of a ground loop) and only use short pieces of wire and/or resistors to test your circuits. I imagine you need to be in walk test/zone status or some other mode that would trigger if a zone where activated.

Well do they change state in any of the modes?

It won't be firmware. It's all down to zone configuration somewhere. Nobody will ship a panel that has firmware that mean the zones dont work. Even if that was possible it would have been found upon installation and sent back not left screwed to your wall.

There is a table in the wiring section to explain each wiring type and the state they should be. Single EOL S/C seems to be correct for your explanation.

Best to get hold of the landlord if your place is rented it's there responsibility. Either make sure they get it working and serviced regularly or make sure it's disabled and powered down correctly. Landlord may call it "disabled" if they only use it when there is no tenant but that doesn't help you in this situation you should have the code.

This is what happens to a system that is not serviced regularly. Switching the power back off will only make it worse as you will trigger the outside sounder. Companies do operate 24/7 however they may not respond without a contract in place. The settings icon is likely a fault spanner (scantronic)? You could try putting in the code slowly and firmly just incase the keypad is worn and a digit was missed.

I imagine Single EOL S/C is the type you want

May not be setup for resistors as default

99 to leave engineers? If so all zones and tamper is active

It appears the international series has allsorts of weird SEOL configurations look in the manual for wiring zones take note of the parallel "zone doubled" config you have to apply this to each circuit you wire this way. If you have moved zones around in the panel this will be setup incorrectly.

3K3 doesn't support multiple devices on one zone would need to be double pole or 4K7/2K2

It's around £60 for a 412 with keypad out there if that adds any context. Anyway feel we are sliding off topic, OP feels competent to DIY and is in the DIY section? If you do all the checks i listed above you will have an idea if it's the controls or not then you can proceed from there.

It's all relative tho H, the average salary in SA is around 15000ZAR if your lucky whereas it's more like 30000GBP in the UK. It's not just about the 18% exchange rate. From what I know security is more costly over there, I do agree it's all relative tho if you want the work done you pay the going price.

Looks like a Premier 412 Export. I can only suggest defaulting and programming again, there maybe something you have missed. You need to find out if it's the circuit or the panel is at fault and then from there if the panel detects the zones or if it's programmed incorrectly. If programming it may just be the circuit isn't in the correct area or something similar. We don't see the international series panels over here much so don't know the programming sequence in depth as a "normal" Prem. Also as above the two circuits will not operate correctly in parallel although you say the reed is bust on one so for now it should be ok for the one that works.

Maybe post some pictures of the panel, sounds like an old export model from what you have mentioned.

£150 including the keypad?

All down to how you set it up in the programming.

Prosys is up there with a Sterling too, how relevant.

If biscuits where still around for Grade 3 they would just have 5 legs instead of 3. I think BUS detectors where a better idea, issue is your tied to one manufacturer then.

It could be pretty unreliable I am glad it's not still around TBH.

It's not marketing any more it's Cambridge Analytica style brain washing....

It's a Visonic Powermax Express they are now discontinued

Delay 1 and 2 are likely two different delay timers but yes they are the "entry/exit" zones. Instant is what it says instant alarm. So yes you would have this external sensor on Delay if you wanted time to leave. As I say you would normally have delay on as minimal as possible circuits, just enough to get to the keypad for example a front door.

Adding an exit delay to something that you need to trigger instantly defeats the object of having the sensor. It's going to need the entry delay to expire before the system triggers you should consider other options like resiting or masking the PIR if you have to. It's a bit of an odd setup we wouldn't protect stuff like this in the UK