ShaunBarlow

That helps a LOT to know. Supplier also says that the 8XP still works with the non-elite Premier panels that they sell, but confimration from you as well that nothing has changed there recently helps to seal the deal. The keypad zones on these panels are actually fixed and can only map into the same 9-16 range as the plugin expander, based on the keypad ID, so a lot less flexible than the Premier Elite panels. Your feedback helps a lot, even if the panel is not supported directly there. If I need to replace the panel at some point I'll go for one of the Elite panels, looks like they have a lot more flexibility after going through the install manual. I think it hadn't really sunk in that the Premier panels are not sold in UK at all, I checked the Texe site now, and when I switch to the UK version the entire range Premier range disappears.

Got it, thanks. I'll make sure to source the correct cable for the job then. In terms of zone expanders for the Premier 832 (current 16 zones are filled with a combination of actual zones, 1 panic zone and 2 keyswitch zones) I'm feeling confused. According the latest Texecom Instalation manuals I should be buying Premier 8X expanders, but this part has been discontinued. Given that I can't find a supplier with stock yet, the disconintued part seems correct. I can find Premier elite 8XP expanders, but whether they will work or not... The latest 8XP installer manual (INS179-5) says that they work on Premier Elite panels only. The older 8XP installer manual (INS179-4) says that they work on Premier panels. Does anyone have epxerience with trying to fit 8XP expander on a Premier 832 panel? As a last resort I can check if my AUX input is unused and move the panic over there to free up 1 zone (Premier 832 supports AUX as a panic zone), but fitting a zone expander seems like the better solution for future expansions.

Running an 8 or 10 core alarm cable from the panel to the gate seems worth it then. I have enough RF issues with my day job, don't need them with our alarm as well. If pulling cable anyway, I should probably see if conduits are large enough to pull wiring for a CCTV camera as well while I'm at it... Does solid core vs stranded make a major difference for this type of setup? My electronics training says no as long as the connections at the ends are solid, but practical experience takes precedence over theory. Normal alarm cable fine if the entire run is through roof crawlspace and underground conduits? Or is spending the extra for PE cable recommended due to conduit runs? 2 cores then used for N/C industrial reed, 2 cores to bring N/O gate trigger if I want bypass logic. Then still have cores open for future use if needed. I'm guessing that I should try to wire the zone with double EOL configuration, so that the panel can monitor for cable breaks and some sensor failures? Then I can fit bypass logic or anything else directly near the panel where it can be checked and maintained easily. So more work up-front to get the wiring in, but simpler long-term and no RF jamming risks.

So continuing the saga of our alarm system... I am trying to push the detection perimeter of the system further out for earlier warning on intrusions. The major security hole there is currently the motorised car gate. (known to have been lifted or forced open during the last incident) Sensor setup : Industrial magnetic contact in the gate closed position, which is bypassed for 1 min on valid open signals from RF remote/intercom. The zone would then be monitored as 24H active, so alarm if gate opens without the bypass having been triggered. Prepackaged solution would be something like (https://gate-alarm.co.za), which nicely packages the logic needed for the timed bypass. It could obviously be assembled from one or two other logic boards as well, although my initial costing shows that I'll end up spending roughly the same in any case. That's the easy part. The hard part is getting this wired up to a panel, as there is at least 70m between the existing panel and this gate Options : Most expensive for parts: Put down an entire new panel setup with extra monitoring connection to monitoring company. No long wires runs, extra local battery backup for system is easy. Texecom Ricochet : Use a Richochet door contact for the TX, add a Ricochet 8 zone expander at the panel. Possibly need an intermediate Ricochet device (or 2, 3?) to get the distance? 403MHz TX/RX Link : Use the sensor as above with gate battery as power source with a long-range 403MHz TX unit. Add a 403MHz RX unit at the panel and connect to a zone on a new wired zone expander. Cheapest for parts : Trace existing intercoms wires and fish an alarm wire through. I'm asuming this is going to require at least doubling up the power cores to ensure adequate supply at the sensor, or relying on gate backup battery. I'm guessing the actual wire run for this might be closer to 100m. Should be able to configure EOL from the panel to at pick up tamper events or cut wires (Double EOL zone type) Would there be reliability/technical reasons to discard any of options 2-4 right off the bat? 2 & 3 there is clear risk of RF jamming rendering the system non-functional, although I guess Ricochet might be able to provide tamper/some other failure indication for this case? Option 1 will be either partially or completely done by a professional to get the ARC setup correct on the new panel as otherwise it's useless. Option 2 or 3 will probably be full DIY Option 4 will start DIY, but might end up outsourcing the wiring portion if it gets hairy Opinions or alternatives would be welcome, even if they are to tell me that everything except option 1 is a bad idea.

Thanks for the feedback and professional opinion. PIR will be left as instant, and the short term pain of some false alarms while the correct distance to safely arm the system will be endured. I have updated my system notes on dealing with a delay zone on the panel if I need to in the future if the system does change

As a note country of installation is South Africa. Thank you for all the feedback so far. I will take a look at resiting or masking the PIR. I can also recheck if the detection range can perhaps be pulled in slightly closer If somebody would be willing to give an opinion I can provide a drawing of this particular approach of the property Ok. You mentioning the entry delay suddenly means made me go reread the manual. So the exit delay only applies to Zones that have been Set to either the Delay 1 or Delay 2 type. Is that correct? The Zone is currently set as Perimeter Instant, which means it ignores the exit delay? At the time of the incident it was set as Delay 1, with Entry Delay 1 of 10 seconds. So resetting to that Zone type should restore exit delay operation? Entry delay is very short as the expected method of disarming is Remote Fob, not needing to physically reach a keypad. With the 10s delay in place it triggered an alarm 45 seconds before the door contact was opened (due to the door losing physical integrity). Timing comes from the monitoring company report So it is doing something even with an entry delay, although I agree it is not ideal. This sensor is a new addition to the system, it already has door contacts on all external doors, full internal PIR coverage in all rooms and external PIR covering window approaches on the other faces of the structure. The partitions containing the door contacts and internal PIR have all delays set to 0 and also contain no Delay 1 or Delay 2 zones.

I guess the alternative solution is to just stick with the setup without any delays until everyone gets used to how far away they need to be to arm the system safely? External PIR is an Optex WXI-ST, with it's range reduced to 6 meters with the adjustment for each of the two 90 degree sections. Arming is done from a remote fob that connects to a 3rd party busline receiver, so if everyone gets used to being far enough down the driveway when they arm I guess no delays would be needed. Although at this point if I can find a technical solution that does not require behaviour retraining (because this PIR is relatively new)

I wondered if I understood it correctly. I'm assuming I am missing something on how the exit delay works? Moving the sensor is not practical. The only other location that I can fit it to still cover the lock box (initial install reason) would either cause a lot of false alarms due to a neighbour who shares the driveway or require me to reduce its arc in that direction and leave it blind to one direction of approach. It's current location covers garage (at one end of the 180 degree arc), a lock box (directly in front of it) and front door (other end of arc). And it was the first sensor to trigger in a recent burglary so not really keen to change it at this point.

Hi, I have a Texecom 832 panel (can confirm exact software version once home again) I am trying to configure a new external PIR that covers the driveway in front of the garage to have an exit delay when Arming (Away arm specifically) the system, as we are getting some false alarms when my wife arms the system when slightly too close to the Garage I have configure the exit delay for the Partition that the zone belongs to (Programming menu option 20) But this seems not to have added any exit delay at all. Does anyone know what I am missing here, or suggest what else I should check and report back on for better feedback? Thanks for any help