sixwheeledbeast

Your saying people with years of experience on the topic are missing the point...? Nothing is going to stop a determined burglar but that doesn't mean Ring isn't expensive DIY consumer focused tat.

I am not saying to omit the PIR's completely just that I wouldn't consider pet ones.

if you have perimeter protection then you would be best programming the system around pets, pet sensors can have mixed results and with starting from design stage you are better not using them. i normally look for sealed optics generally fitting Optex but other brands like Bosch have sealed quads. Buying from ebay isn't ideal if you have no idea what your testing for, although if you have the panel wire it all up, program and bench test it first. Don't rate the light up external sounders but with the main manufacturers they are more chosen on aesthetics and branding for installers really.

That's the most worrying thing yes it can be an external source, it could in theory be a legit site that has loaded a bad advert via a third party. Safaris WebRTC support is limited so this is where the "scanning" of the local network was required, I read it that the timing attack would be done on any browser if WebRTC didn't give out the IP. The exploit needs to know the browsing computers private IP to start the attack and make it look like a SIP request to trigger ALG. This timing attack method takes time so I would expect to see a delay in website/pages loading. If successful it would provide access to anything on that subnet behind the firewall, beyond that it would depend on what's on the subset that can be accessed from that PC. I see what you mean, if things could be done in the browsers this would roll out to people pretty quickly. Disabling settings in the router or any patching/upgrading firmware is very unlikely to be done by the average person and take while to get released. I would say for now disabling ALG if you don't need it would be sensible tho.

It's not necessarily just a browser issue, as I understand it javascript via a browser is just an easier way to execute it. In summary it finds the internal IP of the browsing computer via WebRTC. If WebRTC is not available a TCP timing attack is performed to detect valid subnets trying to establish the machines internal IP. Used in conjunction with "an abuse of the TURN authentication mechanism causing IP packets to overflow" a valid SIP registration connection is requested. The SIP connection request tricks ALG in the router to open a requested port for the attacker to exploit further. The router will now forward any port requested by the attacker who now has access via the compromised PC. A simple solution would be to disable Javascript on your browser but so much of the web uses scripts this wouldn't be viable for most. Disabling WebRTC from within your browser would be one way to limit your private IP being broadcast to the internet but this exploit employs other methods to try and establish this information. Disabling ALG on your router (normally under NAT) for example should stop it completely, however you may have issues with routing SIP connections or other services that require ALG like RTSP. It may also be possible that ALG implementation in affected routers be patched somehow, the proof of concept was on a Netgear R7000 not sure if testing has been done on every brand, something to keep an eye on. According to the developer:-

Slipstream exploit published this week allows an attacker to access any TCP/UDP service bypassing any NAT or firewall by just visiting a website with some malicious javascript.

All of those problems are just like saying two way wireless is a bad design because you keep getting poll fails on one sensor. "That one way powermax that was ripped out worked fine before you replaced it for this rubbish".... completely missees the point IMO.

Maybe people that fit the stuff have more of an idea...? I rarely have any issues and wouldn't agree at all on "not well made". It seems like it's a Virgin Websafe issue if you want to call that a "texe problem dude" then clearly I am talking to myself in the posts above.

Motion is not reliable for external environments and your completely missing the point of having your own data with no reliance on third parties. You say about the recorder being stolen, seems like the opinion of someone who would have CCTV without an alarm (increasingly common). Security is all about layers and this DIY type stuff contributes very little to this, it has an application for some people but it's not "security" like the way they market it.

This is the issue with providing services you have to maintain on kit you have no control over. Mostly hassle and wasted time going round in circles. As I said in a post above this could happen to any service if you have some remotely managed firewall like this, it would only take the ISP to push a firmware update and other brands of ISP provided router tat could do this. We are providing server type services when fitting things like this, as much as they try to hide it behind a user friendly plug and play interface. The most stable solution is using your own router that you can support.

At least with Micromark and a VCR you knew where the footage was stored and could be viewed from, even if it was cheap DIY grainy tat... It's too late arguing with a cloud platform if your data was lost, stolen or they sold your info on, your trapped to whatever T&C's they feel like.

Professional Lol. Modern Micromark.

There are other brands of kit that offer longer ranges but it's not Ethernet they normally have some "CCTV mode", like above.

Ethernet is 100m max normally for an installation 90m field wiring with 10m left for patching. You then also need to consider the load types and how much your switch provides.

The same reason all other vintage tat is a thing. Someone thought it was worth saving from the scrap heap. Google knows you like looking at electronic tat from the 50-60s, so the ads are right up your street.

Restarted the router? If it happened during a power cut then it's more likely because some other part of the network was powered down. Can't say I have had any issues like this but if your timed out and have com fail I would make sure your getting a connection to it say plug a laptop into the LAN cable. Personally if I had that issue first thing I would try would be power everything down router, smartcom etc then power everything up working towards the panel. Engineers menu wouldn't help unless something is programmed wrong, user code twice and reset to clear alerts.

Premier would also power itself down at around 11.5v to stop the battery from becoming damaged. So it's not got to the stage where the battery is too low to recover if it's decent quality. You may need to code twice then reset to clear the system alerts. As above give it 4 hours or so, try to reset, if you still have a fault contact your installer. The recommended annual checks would pick up if the battery has lost any capacity, assuming the system is serviced.

I also use Thunderbird. The adaptive junk settings are decent.

Replying to them is what they are aiming for, then they know it's a valid address to add to the list. They won't care about inbound mail either they'll just send it to /dev/null

Doubt something like that would be manufactured any more. It's more cost effective to have LED's or strobes built into whatever the product is. Build you own bell boxes hasn't been a thing for several decades now, I doubt there is another market for them.

You shouldn't take outputs from a different source then the devices supply incase the negatives aren't at the same potential. Did you check the outputs changed state with a meter incase there was some area/group programming? Fit RIO next to the panel or SCB mode the bell off the remote RIO, you'll have to mess with the tamper tho.

Yep agreed, would all depend how a drive fails as to any audio clues like that. Silent types of failure are probably likely than the more obvious mechanical ones. Fans especially the smaller ones in these units are more likely for bearing to let go. If the OP isn't sure how to check what the fault is probably a could idea to get the installer back.

Damaged wiring? Faulty panel? Testing for the fault with a multimeter is much more succesful than buying kit that you may not need. I suppose start with testing the wiring and compare readings to the installation paperwork would be the usual method. Moving the keypad adj the panel would be another diagnosis step. If you feel this is out of your depth it's probably time to look for an installer

New battery may have needed some charge.