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saguy

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  1. Thank you. I'm going to give it a go and set it to auto. If that doesn't work then I'll investigate further.
  2. Thank you to everyone who previously assisted me with adding some QD-W indoor ricochet PIRs to my system. With the help received I managed to setup everything the way I (and more importantly, my wife) wanted. I do appear to have one issue though - and maybe I've missed something: My new QD-W's show as zones being active for long after I've left the room. Which wouldn't bother me too much, but it appears to be hindering my ability to arm the alarm when leaving. When trying to set my alarm with my remote control, often nothing will happen - and then I have to wait a minute and try again, before it eventually works. My guess is that it's the QD-W's showing as active even though I had left the room for a minute or two already. As per docs and suggestions here I have the mode set to Hybrid, and I'm wandering if that doesn't have something to do with it. I would rather deal with changing batteries every year if it means the statuses are updated more frequently (if that is indeed the cause) Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you all the way from South Africa.
  3. Oh... hahaha... don't be silly. It's connected directly to a hatch which releases a 2 litre coke and kfc to bribe the police to provide assistance.
  4. Thanks for that. I'm still learning and appreciate the info. What makes T2 special then? Is it just that if it is "triggered" the alarm will show it as a tamper? What is an Uzi?
  5. Thanks. Could one theoretically use M, S and T1 together? I see nothing that says otherwise in the manual.
  6. Hello. I have two use cases for the SC-W contact/shock sensor. 1. Using shock sensor and magnetic sensor on my skylights to alarm when skylights are open or attempted break-in. My understanding is that the dip switches are: M - ON, S - On, T1 - Off, T2 - Off. 2. Using the inputs on the SC-W to connect my normally closed perspex burglar bars which essential have a wire running through them to determine if it's been cut. I imaging that one end of the wire goes to T1 terminal and the other to COM. Then dip switches are: M - Off, S - Off, T1 - On, T2 - Off. Then I'm also not sure what the correct mode would be, Hybrid/Auto? etc... Anyone have experience or guidance on this?
  7. I haven't seen any techs wearing a T, but they maybe that's more for larger companies and not residential. Given that the large portion of our armed response security have bought their gun licenses (and lack even the most basic firearm competency), I think it's more likely the armed response meant to shoot someone the next town over and hit your tech friend by mistake
  8. Well thanks for the help everyone, I managed to get the PIR in and all working fine. Also installed Wintex so I can fix all the spelling errors and inconsistencies a lot easier I see a lot of strange things though in Wintex, example - for the exact same PIRs in adjacent rooms a good few settings are different for no reason - and other things where rooms in the middle of the house are marked as Entry/Exit. Some of my Ricochet external td-w beams also require that I put in my engineer code every time they are triggered into an alarmed state, I can't clear them with a normal user reset. The one installer told me that's impossible, even though I showed him a video of exactly that. Although I'm a tad nervous messing around in Wintex. I see Texecom has free installer workshops, I may just attend those and upskill. As some of you guessed, I'm not in the UK. I'm in South Africa. Any of you fine installers want to come to SA and actually show our locals how it's done?
  9. Sorry, I must apologise... really put my foot in it. Was frustrated with my local installers and with my inability to rectify the issues. Not trying to save money, literally just trying to get my system working the way I want it. When my local installers leave I'm left with spelling errors, sensors in incorrect zones and part arms setup incorrectly. Then when I changed installers they undid everything and made it worse... At one stage I even had to get someone who works at Texecom directly to come to my house to fix up the installer's errors. One of the installers had me replace half my system, only to find out later that there was no reason for me to do it. It's been frustrating, but my apologies for bringing that frustration here. Not trying to take the work out of installers hands, but sadly it's become a case of "if you want something done right, do it yourself" when it comes to my local installers and Texecom products. Thank you, I will test this.
  10. Hello. First time poster here. I'm getting annoyed with installers never doing exactly what I want, so trying to learn to do this myself. I have a new QD-W indoor ricochet PIR. I followed this video to add it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMFKPf77VVM It seems to have gone well as I have been able to see the following: - A tamper alarm for the zone when I was busy installing the PIR - When doing a walk test for area 1 the zone is picked up when I walk through it. Due to the location of this zone it is omitted from all part arms and should only be armed when I do a full arm on area 1. I tried setting my alarm now and walking into the room, but my alarm is not triggered. Other than the omit zones, all the other settings appear to be exactly the same as another one of my zones. Attached are screenshots of the zone setup, what am I missing to get this zone to trigger my alarm when fully armed:
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