sixwheeledbeast

So if you have an Entry/Exit contact then you wouldn't use Timed for Area arm you would use Entry/Exit this requires no timer. You have now found why your set failing on part with it being instant, so in combination with above you set the timer purely for the part set route.

If you don't have any other devices on the entry route then you can't use Guard Access or the Area will not arm. It would be Entry/Exit, timers will only work if the Mode is set to Timed. Having nothing on the entry route is poor design really.

So you had the multimeter out and got all the voltage, current and charging rate checks? It's alright throwing a new battery in, but who says it's going to charge or takeover properly in a power cut.

In answer to the question.

All devices to be armed in the system must be secure to arm. This is what part set arming delay is for. Also you say Hallway is Zone 1 Guard Access, do you have any other devices on the entry route?

I have no issue with leaving kit in if it's fit for purpose and well looked after. Most Optima's I find can't charge the battery properly after 10 years, even tho the system "works". Most electronic tat in houses now have some manufactured obsolescence and people seem to except that at the time and move on. Wired alarm systems don't suffer from that, much like LV wiring. Often the only reason people have a rewire is it's found to be unsafe during works or EICR. Downtime in network infra can cost more than the kit so is considered disposable after say 4 years. Part of the issue is people aren't told about service requirements for alarms but also older alarm systems would still operate for years with no fault on the display until there is a power cut or whatever. Battery boiled away years ago, bell has faulty piezos, sensors wouldn't detect an elephant on a trampoline... as long as the entry and exit tone sounds right, to the customer it's fine.

It's still sounding like a NAT issue, there will be nothing O2 can do at CS it's how the routing is done within the network. I would say options are:- *Replace DVR for something else and hope it works. *Change network provider. *Try some VPN service app to hopefully route around the NAT issue.

Ebay and ADT Visonic... it's like groundhound day... You didn't find an ex-ADT engineer to fit it then? I don't see why ADT would distribute firmware they are designed to be locked down for ADT.

Use a panel that can do double pole or just replace the devices as above. Putting resistors in old devices is often asking for trouble.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrier-grade_NAT#Disadvantages May give you a basic understanding of what I mean. It's normally more of an issue for hosting a service than connecting. I'd have a guess the device with the issue will be Telefonica carrier.

Mobile service provider. They often use CGNAT.

Service provider blocking ports? Are you all with the same provider? You have proved the devices and the account settings if it works on LAN so the only thing I would say is left would be a service provider issue.

It's alright replacing components like for like but often if the systems been in for a while and not checked over by someone knowledgable the system design would need assessment.

There maybe a number of fuses from your CU (fuse box) to the panel depending on how the supply was installed. CU may have it's own way (breaker) or it could be wired with other circuits, you may then have a FCU (fused spur) adjacent the panel with a 3A fuse. Then there are normally mains fuse carriers in the panel where the mains comes in, also don't rule out something faulty in the panel either.

I think both JW and I have both tried to explain as best we can. Your Strobe +ve terminal at the panel will be unused. You need a -ve Strobe to each bell.

One bell didn't have a strobe connection in the panel? The strobes are -ve trigger so you had a +ve and -ve wire where you need two -ve. You can't the point is they self activate if you tamper with them, get some earplugs. If you remove hold-off power and battery jumper, they will be in test mode until you close them again.

I try to avoid them ... IIRC they are 2k2 tamper return if using the normal bell terminals?

Back doors and bad design...

Depends on the system current, battery on for both yer. The other jumpers you are balancing sound output and available system current making sure the PSU isn't overloaded in alarm and that you can keep the system up with no mains power. If your not sure the safe option is SCB for both then minimal load will be put on the system.

Well white is currently strobe neg but that wouldn't matter if you pull all the wires out and use whatever colours you want. I am more thinking you need to know which wire is for which box

They come with instructions, you'll have to work out where each cable goes and copy the wiring in the instructions as with two bells and every model has a different ways to wire the tamper through. You will also need to use the SCB mode so you don't overload the panel. You've worked out what they are on the panel so should be straight forward

So no replacement batteries, charging rate, voltage and resistance checks during this service then? Not fitted "basic" stuff in years, better grade kit overs so much more flexibility and diagnostic tools if you know how to use it. Even so you have no idea what in the garage has gone off, there is also no tamper protection for this wire down the garden, no alarm engineer would install it like that, even if it did "work". You still need to work out what is up with what you have, maybe this link wire up the garden is damaged causing problems with both panels. Needs further diagnosis IMO.

Don't use the backlit bellboxes so wouldn't know. Although I do have some LED modules from them, to use as a light source, none of those have any failed LEDs. Are these ones you have seen fitted by yourself?

Sometimes pros talk jibberish too... Really I would say you could have it as a standalone system, upgrade to something more modern. Alternatively, you would upgrade the house system to something decent that can have areas setup and have it as one system but partitioned off like two systems, the link to the garage would become a data bus for an expander or whatever. Would require more kit/programming knowledge to work that out from a DIY POV. I wouldn't have linked the systems together in the way you did, its more awkward for isolation when you have issues like now. Also when you do have an alarm you have no knowledge of where was triggered and have to go down the garage to investigate with possibly someone lurking about in the garden. Really you need to work out why your garage system is going "bonkers" is it the control panel or something else? No point throwing kit at it if you don't know why, I mean it may just need a quick look at by a knowledge engineer especially if you have done no maintenance on it.

As your average house gets more and more IT connected equipment really they need a little server space where the comms come in. When Openreach eventually switch off POTS you will have to power FTTP equipment anyway. I have a small UPS with Multi-WAN router, always prefer this configuration but still polling should come from the signalling device itself. The benefit for signalling to have dual paths at the device with each path polled is to identify an attack over a service outage. If the single path LAN side to the signalling failed you wouldn't be able to tell, you'll just see it down. I know we are talking different grades of signalling system here but it's worth considering what you get for your money when it comes to monitoring.