sixwheeledbeast

No. Dual Tech Pet is what's suggested but none are guaranteed to work hence why they are all sold as "pet friendly". Never had an issue with sensible location of Bosch ones here for both active cats and dogs.

You can connect whatever detection you want to your alarm. You need to bear in mind that contacts will only operate if the frame is opened. If "window sensors" mean shock sensors, consider bird strike and cats jumping on the window ledges. Coverage on perimeter is generally less so you need to design the system around this. Perimeter protection in the areas with pets and movement detection in other areas is recommended. I have had good results with Bosch Blu pet sensors but using a movement sensor and asking it to ignore certain movement is not ideal. A good option would be installing movement and perimeter protection in the areas required and using panel programming to control the enabled sensors. This will need planning, good knowledge of the equipment and increase the cost of the system, but well worth it.

So your Uncle removed the waste from the site then? Seriously, there have been plumbers fined for old radiators in there vans without a license. If deemed scrap on site you need a waste license to remove.

You have a waste carrying license?

I'd guess aesthetics, smooth lines on the bottom of the PIR. In reality some numpty engineer turns up and puts screwdriver rash all over it.

You shouldn't be looking at the equipment you should be looking at the company and the specification of each job. Each company should be trained on there preferred kit and most kit does a similar job when it comes to the basics. Choose the company you feel most comfortable with not necessarily the cheapest.

m2mservices Sofia?

Been ages since I played with one but they have a master tag for enrolling, if lost time for the bin.

Gotta start somewhere, first script kiddie next step the Pentagon.

Less than half the price of a RFHack, it getting more accessible to do this cheaply.

IBT reading was done in 2014 and read 9Ah. How old it the battery (code on the top) and does it rattle.

I would guess there not set to the correct zone type.

Your saying SPC is better than I Premier I guess? Well never really used an SPC but I doubt it's something you would use from a 4 zone domestic right up to a 640 zone hybrid wireless? As I say I couldn't compare having not used one, but IMO the Premier range is on par with the standard commercial panels you see. Also it's worth keeping on topic, OP is looking for a suitable replacement for a domestic panel.

Swap the cabinet. Mounting holes are the same.

Eh?

Why not? Has been for a few years (Ver.2.x.x) for basic features.

If you need to change the firmware, unlikely for DIY

Doesn't matter the MCS730 is for the Powermax anyway. They have different sirens but look the same.

I have said all this before, many local councils and contractors have no idea of the guidelines there suppose to adhere to on road maintenance. Its all made to look amusing by the media but some of these incorrect signs, road markings and even road layouts cause injury and death every day.

Collectors item?

I agree with DD, it would be something like a Premier 24 for me minimum on all installs. Not worth fitting single loop tampers and LED keypads anymore IMO. Maybe if it's quick swap like for like and an old dear is used to it but otherwise not worth bothering.

It's the company, it would appear that the last thing on there mind is security when you leave back doors in your firmware, time and time again. All of these security issues could be fixed but seem to insist on small temporary patches to keep costs down. Product quality is slightly above par with the rest of the tat out there but seen similar failure rates as SIA. They are like the Windows of the DVR world, obfuscation over security. This is a tasty carrot for someone into cracking this stuff, large attack surface. Unlike Texe it will be less about adding features/fixes and more about forcing a root and password reset

16 Ohm impedance yes but the resistance is not far away from nominal impedance, especially on the end of a piece of cable. Getting around 14 ohm on a meter would be my first test before taking things apart too. I would check you have terminated them in the correct place on the panel, common apprentice mistake is to mis-terminate the speaker due to the split between the terminal blocks. Also make sure it is a speaker and not a 12v sounder which would normally contain a small PCB for the tone driver.

Well done for bumping a 13~ year old thread, regarding alarms in motorhomes. I certainly don't agree with the comments on Optex above. For the OP I would say other types of detector are more suited to fitting in vehicles, see Breff's post. As for domestic alarms I would always fit Quads as a minimum and commercial would be DT's. Considering £12 was considered cheap end back then, a lots changed price wise.

When you say wired and wireless, I assume you mean the signalling and not the system as that would be two separate things.