sixwheeledbeast

If it's 16 Ohm speaker driver it should be driving 16 Ohm. Wiring of multiple speakers would depend on the wiring configuration. Series - Zt = Za + Zb Parallel - Zt = (Za * Zb) / (Za + Zb) We don't know what's on the system to know how loaded the panel is. Most systems can take a speaker, a bellbox, a keypad and a hand full of PIR's from there PSU.

Have you checked the Downloads section where most manuals are archived for your convenience? http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/category/3-ade/

I suggest reading the instructions for everything before you start, neither of those devices wire onto the panel as a zone.

Bench testing will hardly be beneficial for testing brick throwing but it's sensible wiring things up on a bench first before jumping into a project.

Did I follow this correctly? A grand for that shoddy work? Movement detectors are designed to detect people walking across them, yes they can pick up other things due to how they work but that's what they are designed to do. You shouldn't be expecting a PIR or DT to detect this type of incident There is more to alarms than sticking coloured wires in holes, understanding how detection works and what type you need for the environment is all part of the job. If you want to detect the window being put in, I suggest using a method capable of this. Also to your last point an auto dialler maybe fast but it's certainly not a secure method.

Zone, Circuit, NC C, Relay. All the same thing in this instance.

The power supply is already in parallel there is no other way with wiring shared like that. If you wire a zone with multiple sensors in parallel you will have to trigger all at the same time to trigger that zone.

In parallel you would have to hope any burglar would trigger all the sensors at exactly the same time. One Zone, One sensor. Depending on the wiring and the control equipment it could be done in EOL configuration.

Looks a right mess. No tampers and two (or more?) sensors series on the same zone. Yes, relay is the same as NC C here. Old Risco PIR by the looks of it.

Possibly right with microwave then, should have some sort of adjustment I would expect.

Exactly, isolate things to narrow the problem down.

Just for clarification FTO = fail to operate. It all depends on the type of sounder and which wire as to what fault would occur. It could be possible for a wire to break and the system display no fault condition. From a professional POV that's why regular servicing is important, the things a user wouldn't spot from daily use. Yes it's unlikely but possible, I am sure you came here for professional opinion, otherwise you wouldn't be bothered and would have done the work already.

£1000 would all be relative on what's included and what's needed for the property. Have you not had quotes from a few companies? That's difficult to answer, it depends how competent you are? Also how much you value your time spending on working it out. What about the bellbox? Is there something wrong with the existing kit? You have to get up to it and hope you don't need to smash it to bits to open it. Unless the bell in question has a fancy engineers mode.

If the sounder wire breaks you wouldn't noticed until it FTO.

First approach is to rewire if possible Failing that either soldered, clamped or crimped are the requirements for connections, contained within a tampered or resin sealed enclosure. An alarm junction box would be the normal way to meet the above. I await the suggestion to just twist and tape some of that CAT 6 on... Take a step back you have wires in the wrong places and not enough of them, have you considered wireless options?

Those plug on COM's leads aren't really designed for that, but again there's no reason why it shouldn't. You have the issue of the leads strain relief fouling the lid on the poly panel and if you pulled the cable you would damage the port and could short out the panel. Any equipment like this should be contained within the panel for tampering reasons,. The COM-IP is the ideal solution for this as it's fully within the panel and has a slimmer crossover lead molex with no strain relief to plug on within the panel. Not sure on when Connect unit is out if you wanted to wait but in reality you will fit and forget. TL;DR - Just open the lid and plug on, remove and close lid like it's designed for.

Surely the occupancy sensor is just doing it's job? Assuming there ultrasonic or microwave and not IR. If the only thing "connecting them" is the audible sound of the chime on the door have you disabled the chime to test? The occupancy sensors may need adjusting. Also who's John, the resident ghost?

Alarm cable is designed for alarms, CAT6 is designed for data. If the solid core cable breaks you'll get intermittent issues. It's most likely that an intruder will just pull it off the wall and cause more damage if confronted with a loud siren within reach. Grading would only be useful for companies specifying a system. All of these things you suggest are possible but not good practice your conform to standards. You may have issues in the long run. However, I am sure they have been done before and will be found again by engineers in the future.

Manufacturers normally recommend keeping sounder and input cabling apart. Do you really need a sounder like this? Would an extension speaker not be more appropriate? If you have the large screen keypad you can drive a speaker from the keypad.

It's per user.

Regulations require users code to be disabled on entry for monitored systems, this needs disabling in Setup Users.

Agreed

This isn't a pull up resistor, some of the more modern panels have a tamper resistor that the panel monitors for a value you would install this at the end of line for security (hence SEOL resistor). You could fit a staple (dead short) across the SCB terminals for example and not damage the panel (this would link the tamper detection out).

I'd say all looks correct but the SCB return should be in TR not NC (which I assume from the diagram to mean "No Connection" and not "Normally Closed") As for the electronics behind the panel I have never seen the panel so difficult to comment. What you have said seems right for panels of that era tho.

Ah, the good old days...