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sixwheeledbeast

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Everything posted by sixwheeledbeast

  1. It's all relative on what your trying to make and for what application. I have made alarm circuits on stripboard before, they where designed specifically for minimal standby current. In essence it's basic logic, you have inputs and outputs, the more you want to do with it, the more processing you need.
  2. While old schematics maybe interesting it's unlikely you will find any available, they are normally kept in house. Very few engineers would repair down to component level and manufacturers would prefer to keep there designs to themselves. Unless you specifically want to work with ATMEL or PIC's, you could make something with basic components or use a relatively low cost SBC to interface with sensors on GPIO.
  3. Providing the lamp has a day night sensor, yeah.
  4. I would assume the tamper on the outside sounder is faulty.
  5. I assume it needs a service and a new battery, that's if no ones looked at it in 20 years.
  6. Excel isn't a popular panel, may have spoke to someone unfamiliar with them? I have no idea what your asking here. Are you trying to repair or get quotes for your own system here?
  7. From memory you don't set zones per suite on an Excel. The zones are only enabled or disabled using the full and part suite options. The type changes are in another menu and are global for part, so you have it's full state and part suite(s) state that's it.
  8. Costs would depend on area etc. It could be done by an alarm engineer within a one hour call out charge, unless there's something unusual about the installation, like access issues.
  9. Prepare ear protection and ladders. Remove Mains and Battery from main controls, get up to external sounder while it's sounding and remove battery. Caution:- Mains voltages in panel and the flashing strobe unit WILL give you a shock if you touch them. Alarms are designed to be tamper proof, there is no way to disable the outside sounder without getting up to it. If the only issue is the battery have you considered having someone come out to either service it or if required disable it for you?
  10. A multimeter is the normal tool for testing these things. Power LED dimming and temperature output is not going to indicate much change unless severely overloaded.
  11. So you need to calculate the total system current while in alarm to make sure you don't overload the panels power supply. While doing this you would also calculate the systems standby current and work this out against your standby battery to make sure it's adequate for say 12 hours of power outage.
  12. If it's 16 Ohm speaker driver it should be driving 16 Ohm. Wiring of multiple speakers would depend on the wiring configuration. Series - Zt = Za + Zb Parallel - Zt = (Za * Zb) / (Za + Zb) We don't know what's on the system to know how loaded the panel is. Most systems can take a speaker, a bellbox, a keypad and a hand full of PIR's from there PSU.
  13. Have you checked the Downloads section where most manuals are archived for your convenience? http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/files/category/3-ade/
  14. I suggest reading the instructions for everything before you start, neither of those devices wire onto the panel as a zone.
  15. Bench testing will hardly be beneficial for testing brick throwing but it's sensible wiring things up on a bench first before jumping into a project.
  16. Did I follow this correctly? A grand for that shoddy work? Movement detectors are designed to detect people walking across them, yes they can pick up other things due to how they work but that's what they are designed to do. You shouldn't be expecting a PIR or DT to detect this type of incident There is more to alarms than sticking coloured wires in holes, understanding how detection works and what type you need for the environment is all part of the job. If you want to detect the window being put in, I suggest using a method capable of this. Also to your last point an auto dialler maybe fast but it's certainly not a secure method.
  17. Zone, Circuit, NC C, Relay. All the same thing in this instance.
  18. The power supply is already in parallel there is no other way with wiring shared like that. If you wire a zone with multiple sensors in parallel you will have to trigger all at the same time to trigger that zone.
  19. In parallel you would have to hope any burglar would trigger all the sensors at exactly the same time. One Zone, One sensor. Depending on the wiring and the control equipment it could be done in EOL configuration.
  20. Looks a right mess. No tampers and two (or more?) sensors series on the same zone. Yes, relay is the same as NC C here. Old Risco PIR by the looks of it.
  21. Possibly right with microwave then, should have some sort of adjustment I would expect.
  22. Exactly, isolate things to narrow the problem down.
  23. Just for clarification FTO = fail to operate. It all depends on the type of sounder and which wire as to what fault would occur. It could be possible for a wire to break and the system display no fault condition. From a professional POV that's why regular servicing is important, the things a user wouldn't spot from daily use. Yes it's unlikely but possible, I am sure you came here for professional opinion, otherwise you wouldn't be bothered and would have done the work already.
  24. £1000 would all be relative on what's included and what's needed for the property. Have you not had quotes from a few companies? That's difficult to answer, it depends how competent you are? Also how much you value your time spending on working it out. What about the bellbox? Is there something wrong with the existing kit? You have to get up to it and hope you don't need to smash it to bits to open it. Unless the bell in question has a fancy engineers mode.
  25. If the sounder wire breaks you wouldn't noticed until it FTO.
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