PeterJames

3/4" 6 wood screw fits nicely, its a bodge but it will get you out of trouble

I get upto monkey business all the time, you should have seen my meeting room this afternoon full of access control panels all linked together with loads of readers everywhere, a real nerds paradise

Sos didnt read it props

To reset the display on the keypad, you just need to throw it away and fit a new one and then you should find that the display will be fine for another 4 or 5 years. When was the battery last replaced?

Arcing normally happens when power is on not off? OP when was the Battery changed?

When I quote for fire I work out my price in the normal way, days plus parts etc. then I count up the devices and multiply by 140 if the figures are about the same I know I have the price correct. You need to include sounders, call points, panel, and repeaters in the calc. To me £4k sounds too strong but I havent seen the site.

So far no problem ours is restricted so dont know if that makes a difference, the kangoo on the other hand has had a new box, and that new box has been repaired again under warranty

Transit Connects mostly, we also have a Traffic, a kangoo and a Vito. We own them all, and two connects are due for replacement this year as theyve done starship mileage

http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/86-forum-trade-membership/ IMPORTANT: Please read carefully, so many apply without fully reading and then they have a go at us for ignoring their application.

Sorry we cant give out engineering manuals here.

I'm here all week

There isnt a panel that works with Echo as far as I know, but then again why would you want that, all the burglar would have to do is say "Alexa disarm alarm" LOL! Nothing wrong with the Texcom products its probably the easiest route, there are panels out there with apps I am not sure if there are any that are DIY though most require installers to set up the cloud etc

Its 150 years old and nothing lasts forever perhaps?

Hi

Also ask for recommendations here, plenty of people here have there favourites, but regardless you will also know that what you are buying is likely to be reliable. Texecom is quite a well known bit of kit, we use one or two of their bits not the panels but what we do use of theirs is good and solid

Please do not post defaulting or links to defaulting security panels on this forum.

Its easier than try to explain how to check that theyre not open circuit. Although the fault was diagnosed as a cracked PCB the person who diagnosed it is an amateur, therefore the diagnosis may or may not have been correct. The problem could have just be open circuit tamper or PA, all along. But starting back to basics is the easiest place to start.

Just be aware the keypad also has tamper buttons

put a link wire between the terminals

hi and welcome

Okay so the pair marked tamp on the PCB the pair marked pa and the TA marked are all 24 hr circuits these should all be closed circuits. To make sure they are you need to remove one wire from the pcb and meter set to continuity put one probe on the wire you removed and one probe on the other in the pcb. If you have continuity on Tamp and PA thats great, the TA is a little harder to test as its a tamper return which means it has to be powered before it becomes a circuit. The easiest way around this is to put a link in across the T and A.you could just put links in all three tbf. The spring switch on the main panel is also a taper switch you need to be sure that this is depressing the button when you power up. The keypad is the only other thing that has a tamper but assuming its screwed down tightly it should be okay

Do you have a multi meter?

are all the tampers closed?

We are unable to provide defaulting information, it could be that the PCB supplied had the engineer code changed already. Have you tried the default user code on power up? Its either #REMOVED# or #REMOVED# I cant remember its been a while.

No manual with the new PCB?