PeterJames

My point is if you use PIR instead of DT you can point them at the windows and they wont fa if someone walks past but will pick up an intruder much quicker. I dont understand why you are installing G3 kit either

Exactly what I would recomend, why install DTs its not needed its like using a tractor for your daily commute. It will get you there but slowly The op is already thinking his concrete walls are 15 metres thick, and mw wont see through them

MW will see through the windows and walls the PIR wont

We'll have to agree to disagree there is absolutely no advantages to fit DT's in a dwelling. Especially so in a flat. Definitely not trolling, it is something I would not do, without good reason.

What floor are you on? It looks a nice flat layout I guess the value of the contents are high as you are going a little ott on a diy project.

I would swerve the G3 contacts too, G3 is not necessarily any more secure but they are far more sensitive and will give you more trouble especially with metal doors that can become magnetised over time

Id point the detectors at the windows rather than away from. They will activate much quicker when someone comes in. Dual techs are not a good idea for domestics they are designed for hostile areas. These detectors normally come with a standard pir which are not as good as a decent quad element. The thought is they dont need a decent pir because the use a dual detection system. but because the microwave will see through walls ceilings and floors if not set up correctly they will give you problems especially in a flat where you have neighbours from all sides (another good reason to point them at the windows)

one of your 5 a day?

I know a co that loves Risco the MD would definately wear Risco budgie smugglers if they made them, he is a bit strange

Most good alarm companies wont need the engineers code. It is a lazy way to take on a system, the new company should be defaulting the system and reprogramming it from scratch and a Veritas is not that big a system so should not take 20 mins to default and re-program. Defaulting and reprogramming is the only way to ensure that the system they are taking on is programed as it should be, and it is their own interest to do this as if it fails to perform they could be liable Alternately you can ask ADT to default just the engineers code, but they are entitled to charge for their time

I thought it was only me that did that

Sorry I thought you said you were working in the alarm industry

Maybe work more days rather an just Wednesdays

Dont mention te words Risco when you call Search here using your postcode https://www.nsi.org.uk/company-finder/

Hi and welcome I work four days a week including Wednesdays but we dont fit Pyronix or Hik if we can help it

Thats an intruder alarm not a CCTV system

I dont think you can bend alli tubing much the only bends I can find are these https://www.securitywarehouse.co.uk/catalog/cctv-c-1/cctv-ancillaries-c-1_3/secware-aluminium-tubing-12mm-single-elbow-p-6071.html 45 degrees is a bit of a strange angle for running alli tubing though its a bit tight squeezing/pulling a cable through it too?

So many people think that cheap trumps quality, and sadly those that understand quality works out cheaper in the long run are a dying breed.

There are not many installers here that trust Pyronix to prop a door open so lots of us wont know if the fuses are monitored integral or glass. I assume that it the fuses were glass its the first thing you would have checked. By your answer we can assume that the fuses are not monitored. If its an integral fuse then you need to down power the system mains and battery so that the fuse can reset. Other than that who knows? Wiring into the zone circuit should not effect the output circuits. The next place to start is to disconnect all the sounders test them individually and then add them back on to the panel and test them.

Its a bit difficult to advise, if you,re brave you can remove the fuse in the spur to the right open the panel and dis the battery. But if there is an external sounder with a battery in it you may be opening a can of worms. That panel was installed pre bell timers so the external sounder could ring indefinitely. If your not so brave call an alarm company to decommission it properly or replace it with something suitable

who knows what the yellow and blue are for just connect the red and black up to 12VDC and see what happens if nothing happens add the yellow to the 0v if still nothing happens try the blue. I would say it must have come with instructions take a look at them

Mainly because most of us have been in this industry long enough to remember Pyronix in the early days and wont trust Pyronix to prop a door open, but thats a historic thing rather than anything they produce nowadays. They were really poor then they purchased Castle 2003 ish and they improved a little. But I dont think any of the main contributors here touch Pyronix mainly because how poor the original products were to begin with. Most installers like to stick with the one brand if they can, as training engineers on hundreds of other panels out there is a PITA all brands have their own way of doing things and programming and even wording making it a nightmare for new engineers just starting out.

what does it say on the terminals/ in the instructions most here dont/wont fit Pyronix

Arf is that you?

the rules of this forum are on the front page, this is not a free advertisement forum, if you want to advertise then you have to pay to do so. If you come here to contribute your experience as a tech then its free. Most on here wont be interested in recruitment though