PeterJames

Ask him both questions please, I dont mind paying

Hi and welcome, you would need the engineers code in order to change anything that isnt already set up on that panel. Have you tested to see if part set has not already been set up?

Can I send him two to fix? LOL Seriously how do you get the middle bit with the fan and heater element out?

theyre still incredibly expensive

Anyone successfully repaired one or got one apart at all. I have two now keep blowing fuses I removed the MOVs onne to see if it was those but it still blew fuses theyre £600.00 a time if there is a known fix than its a big saving

You could just set the SSID and password the same as your old router, or call your installer

some

Agreed, the type of detectors that were around when the Rascal was produced would be prone to sunspots with no white light filter. The Bellbox may also be a problem on hot days polycarb was much thinner and expands when it gets hot causing tampers faults. If the panel powered up okay on mains first I would say the battery although it may be showing the correct voltage is probably fecked (Technical term for no good)as its drawing more current than the PSU can supply. Assuming that the wiring was installed well, that would be the only thing I would look to be saving from your system. If not, well.... wireless systems are pretty good nowadays.

Try recycling the power without connecting the battery

something like this but we can buy it with a calibration cert Ill ask on Monday what the part number is https://cpc.farnell.com/tenma/72-13430/dmm-handheld-auto-manual-2000/dp/IN08405?st=calibrated digital multimeter

£40 for a meter and twenty minutes per eng meter versus 9x £30.00 plus P&P

Ours is ACT in a big case, it wouldnt be hard to make something, but it wouldnt make the job any easier.

Its cheaper to buy a new calibrated meter than pay the postage to and from for your meter, before you have even paid for it to be calibrated. Farnell sell a calibrated meter with cert for around £40.00. TBF calibration is a PITA you have to get all the meters in to check them all, we give out a loan meter while the engineers is being calibrated and trying to organise getting them swapped around is like hearding squirrels sometimes. You have to get the loan back before you can do the next meter. To calibrate you need something to check current, resistance, voltage, ect, against a known calibrated meter. There is no other easy way to check calibration to my knowledge you cant just put it on a machine that does all that for you, you have to change the settings on the meter for starters. + or- 10% is acceptable

The new meter comes with a calibration certificate its calibrated at Farnell. We reuse the last years meter either in the office, I sometimes give them out to engineers when theirs fails or they lose their meter, or leave it on top of a van or whatever they do with them.

We use one of those but the bigger version We buy a new calibrated meter every year and check calibration against that

The would normally go across a large doorway or similar the modern version would look like below

They look like early IR beams transmitter and receiver.

Good old Github

Thats because Ubiquity makes lots of stuff you just need a txer/rxer that suits your needs. But if you have power at the camera end then yiu could just use a POE as others have suggested

Sorry the dodgy website in your link looked as if it was the type that would use a gmail address, you should have done the same when signing up here LOL

Also if youre going to covertly advertise tat, its best you dont use the same email address as you website

Ubiquiti Wireless would be a better choice

I think sometimes people try their luck with Ebay I can see anyone paying that sort of money for one when you can buy a new panel and keypad for a little more. I cant recommend a panel as the ones we install are not really diy, but plenty of people seem to like Scantronic ION and its a brand that bin around for years