james.wilson

Al drop the chancher bit, your asking, if you cant ask with some positive feedback tsi is dead. As Pete says the fire overide needs to be at each head droping the power to each lock as part of the fire not a network intruction I was handed mine earier today as functional earths need a different colour I need to get back in the ring

We have an ethical policy here we wont do engineer manuals. As Mr H use google and hope they are equally ethical

the future is... when you selling?

ok it might be worth running through that first. Checking system voltages etc. IIRC that display means that the keypad isnt communicating with the panel. Has anything other than th epower cut happened. It does look power related though if so

hi when was the last service checks performed?

Yeah but they assume we are lovers Pete

Do you not think it's an issue?

Furry 2 please stop tsi is not a govt funded place

Or not be tradespeople. Millennials, gen Z workers and other younger people who work as plumbers, electricians, and in other trades need to take the risk of asbestos much more seriously. That’s the message from the Health and Safety Executive (HSE). The workplace regulator is launching a new campaign to raise awareness of the risks associated with the dangerous substance. Are we going back to 'you need a degree' All this isnt helpful the current genZ are scared enough of actual work, as it is. Im thinking we should have a work thing rather than an oh i cant, this isnt my thing, have you checked you can say this, etc etc ffs

Lol no

regardless, the panel should have a spur.

Dont, its retro now and may be demanded

if you had a working battery / sab removing the power would make no difference a fused spur is a requirement

No dont get me wrong you dont need to apologise for anything the idea of forums such as tsi is to discuss things

OP your not seeing or listening so good luck. 1) Making it work as you want is one thing, thats easy 2) Making it work properly is something else entirely. I feel your missing that point and just want to make it work. 'An open door isnt access control but keeps every legitimate user of the door happy'

you could also upload stills from these cameras to a static webserver, then ensure the web server is secure etc. Im assuming these cameras con only see inside bird boxes etc, no public area overspill etc

noone here on the trade side is going to use anything like that. putting DIY grade stuff on your own home is one thing, installing it for others is another just Google for that brand and security holes etc. be very careful you could end up with huge problems, I notice in another thread you are involving kids etc in this project. id run a mile

agreed. Are the cameras cybersecure. who is liable if your kit causes a breach. would you allow someone you dont know to connect equipment to your lan also IT are then involved in the privacy issues of 3rd parties they have no control over viewing the cameras. Why would an installer need access to live views?

if the wireless is good (not many are) then by all means consider, however if you can get a wire there you should. If the existing wiring is up to it then i would definetly reuse it

its 12v nominal, the optima will usually output a little high (upto 14v) but nothing to wory about. The reason for the cross coulours on the door contact is that a pair is alarm, and the other pair is tamper. Its not red and black for power that will break it.

agreed it should be 13.8v that panel is usually high so it sounds like lack of maintenance has killed it sensors etc need >12v to work, so 7v things won't be able to function id guess there is a lot of blackened area above the keypad on the caseing

The optima range is obsolete and out of support the optima xm is long long obsolete. With your new battery connected what is the voltage accross the batt terminals?

agree with the above comments but it sounds like your wired keypad has no data.

older panels I suppose.

most modern stuff i know uses switch mode, I was wondering who doesn't?