sixwheeledbeast

They are a pretty basic panel you have to wire the sensors into the correct zones. Zone 4 is likely just un-configurable, so full alarm all the time.

Are the tampers on the box closed correctly? Don't know the panel or the bell too well but seems right.

Don't link them out, program them out. You should get resistors with the kits and they are DEOL default normally.

When it's comes to business banking I have heard bad things from a variety of businesses about all the high street ones. Can't say much about Metro tho which are down south.

I would say you maybe worth considering a partnership type deal where you pass security to someone and they pass you electrical and minor works for spurs. They are two completely different disciplines IMO and although there is overlap like with all things in BS7671, generally for most places it's not beneficial to do both.

The dinosaurs died out, alarm monkeys are now the rare species...

Poor installation of the cable doesn't mean that it wasn't tested tho. There is a big difference between wiring eight core or flex straight off the back of a socket (both I have seen) and a well installed 3A spur without a MWC IMO.

You'd be amazed what creatures get through a 20mm cable opening on the back of the cab.

Croeso nol

A fault on whatever is attached to zone 3. Doubt a manual would help you diagnose.

Draytek Vigor what model? All the SOHO Draytek stuff has good diagnostic features for stuff like that. Start with checking the DNS

Glad i don't see many of them Online SLA's anymore, swap on sight.

No company should be blindly taking over systems by defaulting codes alone.

Internal sounder tamper is the most likely. System needs a full service, replace any batteries possibly the external sounder, check all the voltages etc If it's never been looked at since installation then the battery charging circuit could have failed causing intermittent randomness. Alarms are generally only reliable if you install them well and service them regularly.

Nice to see Honeywell are happy to talk you through defaulting it.

The installer will keep there own engineers code. You should contact them.

Those seem to be the popular ones at the moment rebranded by a good few places. Lots of different models of the same thing due to the optional features so make sure it's got all the features you need. You can buy them cheaper direct from China but consider that you may struggle with any returns if faulty down the road compared with buying from a wholesaler. Seen a few listed as for parts and not working on ebay in the past, so I would be wanting to consider warranty period.

Pen Test Partners have found another vulnerability, this time in car security apps. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-47485731 Another example of consumer driven rubbish being attached to the internet leaving people vulnerable to attack.

They are designed to drive two 16ohm speakers in parallel so you can work out the impedance from that

Labelled Volume?

I imagine it's actually the speaker volume you need to lower. Pot on the main control board.

I would suggest you try to contact the company that installed the system. If the system isn't under maintenance then it would be a good idea to get it looked at anyway if it hasn't been serviced in a while. The system sound like it has been activated and if your not sure why then it would be a good idea to get it looked at as above. SD1 is a dialler not the main system keypad.

That would only be for equipment fitted to pass building control, so new builds etc. Your fitting would be 113 l/W anyway.

I thought bat was your chosen weapon for printer slaying? EU phase out of incandescent has now been followed by halogens, doesn't have anything to do with wattage AFAIK.

150 watt limit by who? What's the application? I have a 200W LED low bay kicking around somewhere that is designed for commercial. All I need is a lens and a dead bat to summon Mr H...