sixwheeledbeast

Leave the mains power off? If you have no evidence that it ever worked there could be anything wrong with it or the rest of the installation.

I vaguely recall your original post and it all still applies, pretty sure I covered all the pros and cons in some detail. It can depend on the bellbox, but if it has no special multiple box connections then you would just series them. I don't see where you feel it would be an issue. Wiring a bell to a zone would normally require you to have tamper lead you can separate from the PCB for it to operate correctly, this removes some of the self activating feature of the bell. If it where a new installation now with Texe I'd just use an expander input for additional bell tampers keeping them separate, but everyone's kits different as above.

I'd guess it's part of tamper circuit then, clamp it with a small terminal block if so.

Could be some part of the tamper circuit? Where does the other ends go?

I can't for whatever reason. You can attach images in the post if you need

So the alarm was/is maintained then? Seems odd to not know you had the firmware upgraded after you moved in (that FW is about 3 weeks old). I would probably drive a normal alarm sounder/speaker straight from the alarm. If it's a sounder best to to use the "Bell trig output" or an output programmed as "Bell (SAB)- Area type" Lighting would need to be a relay as you plan, you can use any output you like on any of the expanders or panel. Would be fine using "Alarm - Area Type" for this. It's all in the manual but you should find the right options from my post above.

I assume by earth you actually mean the black negative battery lead. Battery lead terminals on a Veritas are marked as BATT + and - I can't see your image so not sure if you are talking about something else.

What model Premier? What firmware? What current do you plan to pull from the output as there maybe other options depending what you are trying to do. Output programming should be as simple as finding the right output in System outputs and selecting your Area and Type (probably you want "Alarm") leaving the default attributes

Nope. It's probably not hard to access but it's not "public"

Just find it unusual, a lot of manufacturers try to distribute there firmware on a need to know basis, to make it harder to access. They are maybe concerned that someone could RE it and find some exploit, I am not saying it's a good or bad thing just unusual. I suppose exploits for IP devices are more what people are looking for, Hik took the method of obscuring there firmware files when they realised people where finding exploits.

Interesting that they have there firmware on a public FTP.

Even so the above still applies. Things like this need to be done in writing just to cover both parties. You wouldn't normally be allowed to modify any parts of a rented property as part of a TA. What happens if the alarm fails and is continually in alarm while the tenant is away for a few days. Who takes responsibility for the damage done when the local authority authorises forced entry to silence it? Currently you could it's the landlords responsibility but if you mess about with it then it would become yours.

Logan did you read any of the posts above? i understand your trying to be helpful but there is a much bigger picture you need to think about in real world situations. Ownership, liability and responsibility in this case for example.

If there is an existing wireless camera I can't believe that the tels wouldn't be sent over the wireless with the camera and the receiver have some connection for that. What use is a PTZ without tels?

It this a question or a statement? Just send tels up the coax.

iD system so if the old contact and biscuit have gone, you'll struggle to get it working. All the parts are obsolete and hard or expensive to find.

There are plenty of landlords that have a system for when the property has no tenant and wouldn't include it in the lease. I agree with above regarding getting written permission if you want to go that route, but expect to take on the responsibility of it including having it serviced annually, any repairs and faults etc.

You shouldn't play with it, get your landlord to sort it out.

PoE standard is 15w per port for PoE and 25w per port for PoE+ (Type 2)

Yes it is

You'd need an external power supply and use the EOL zone and output bit like a Powermax, been a while since I worked on one tho. They don't take the expander module from the 30, just a relay board.

Upto you on the aesthetics really, clips look terrible on render like that. Personally I'd be thinking white 20mm conduit female ends straight into vandal resistant domes. Drill through the corner for the back one. This is all if you can't do it from inside of course. I imagine if someone did it on cost, cable ties down the drain pipe lash it across the flat roof but you did say you came here for professional advice.

Larger PoE Devices maybe PoE+ aka Type 2 (25W) this means you may need an injector depending on your switch or NVR.

Most drives recommended operation temperature is 5 - 50 C, however the hotter they are the more likely you will get a failure. I wouldn't put anything like this in a loft you have the temperature changes but also dirt and dust being sucked into the machine. They are a server treat them like one.

External grade cable probably in some containment like tube if low level would be good practice if you need to run externally. Would normally try to keep the cables internal where possible, rarely needs "loads of holes" if your a pro and know what your doing. I don't see where you mention having the NVR in the loft but I do agree for the reasons above. These vague questions are tricky to answer really without seeing the job.