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CR Alarms

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  1. Hi all, just thought I'd let you know i got the sounder tampers working correctly by rtfm, i was very easy it only involved cutting a link in the first unit and linking the tamper series to the second unit tamper return. Now both Sounders if tampered self activate and trigger a full alarm at the panel as it should very loud indeed! Before when the second unit was wired to zone 8 it would only trigger the internal sounder, i imagine this is what you meant about it not being correct. Anyway zone 8 is now spare for what i need, i probably won't bother with the expansion card as i don't foresee myself adding anything else. Just thought i would give you an update. Thanks again all and stay healthy.
  2. There is one on Ebay for £20 i haven't bought it yet , good news is I did manage to find a pdf for the sounders im using so i am a lot clearer on what to do for these particular sounders.
  3. Morning, the bell tamper from the second unit works fine on zone 8 i made sure at the time it was connected to the tamper input side on the zone and not negative feed side. Tbh i think i will just leave it be and buy the 9-12zone expansion card, you know what they say if it ain't broke don't fix, i appreciate all your help and advice and for security reasons i will be removing the pictures. Farewell
  4. Hi just to clear up any confusion, here is how the sounders are wired to the panel, the front unit goes into tr, the green wire going to at8 on zone 8 is the tamper return from the second unit, is what i have done correct, or is the correct way to series the tamper? Thanks
  5. What do you mean exactly? Both sounders have their own 6 core going back to the panel, is what i have done wrong or unnecessary? If so for the Sounders i have and shown, is it okay to series the tamper? Thanks
  6. There you are i managed to upload a few photos, these are the sounders i have exact same pcb, the picture taken is from a spare unit i have but what you see in the pictures is exactly the units i have. Would it be okay to use the tamper return from my front sounder to supply my second sounder at the back with this particular sounder? Thanks
  7. As im not sure about pictures i will just give you the sounder pcb setup connections and jumper links Terminals Trigger+ Strobe+ Trigger- Strobe- Supply+ Supply- Tamper return Tamper series Microswitch b (this has a factory link) Microswitch a this is connected to the lid/wall tamper switch. Jumper links Battery on/off Sab/Scb Tamper mode on/off Tone, fast slow Hopefully you can recognise this sounder. Thanks
  8. Hi, i should of at the time have asked about the tampers, the reason this question has come to light is i will be adding another zone to the system, and all 8 zones are currently used, rather than trying to find an expansion i was thinking of freeing up the zone that Is currently in use for the second bell, and was going to wire the sounders in series tamper from the first to supply the other, but as there as conflicting information and i haven't done enough of this so i wanted to make sure that this method will work. The sounders i have are klaxon xl but as they are both newer versions they could be made by texecom. I would send a picture if i could. Thanks
  9. Hi all, apologies if this is security sensitive question but what is the absolute correct way of wiring two external sounders? The common method seems to be using the tamper return from the first unit and using that to supply the second unit, however on some posts this wiring method seems to have caused problems for some panels and Sounders, such as causing a bell tamper on a bell tests due voltage rising on the tamper return, is there any truth behind this? Has the above wiring method ever caused problems for anyone here for whatever panel and sounders you use? I wired two sounders to my system about 3 years ago, the system i have is a scantronic 9600 and the sounders were klaxon flashguard xl's in fact, they were the newer version not the very old flashguard with the single sounder. Both work fine one is on sab (front) and the back is on scb. I did listen in the end to six wheeled beast, and tbh the volume difference between sab and scb was so minimal it was hardly worth the fuss. However at the time i was and still am skeptical of wiring these sounders using the tamper return from one to supply the other (the traditional way) due to the problems it may cause. The way i wired my sounders up to the panel was the hold off positive,negative and the bell and strobe triggers in parallel, then the tamper return from the front unit to the tamper return in the panel, and the second unit i ended up putting its tamper return in a spare zone tamper input and programmed that zone as "rear sounder" As usual my post is rambling on, all i would would like to know is the best and most efficient way of wiring two bellboxes correctly? I imagine a lot of you here have used many different panels and sounders over the years so from your own experiences has wiring two bellboxes using the traditional method, tamper return to supply the other ever caused any issues? If so how did you get round it? Thanks
  10. Thanks, i guess it's only mains voltage that you need to avoid near alarm cables which i definitely avoid.
  11. Hi all, i am moving my internal alarm speaker in the upstairs landing, one thing that just occurred to me is that the speaker is driven by low voltage ac, what i would like to know is if the small ac voltage to drive the speaker is enough to interfere with other alarm cables on the system? I plan to run alarm cable from the panel to the new speaker location in the landing following the same route the rest of the alarm cables, my concern is one of the alarm cables upstairs supplies a keypad. The cable lengths from the alarm panel up to the attic are 20-30m long. Am i worrying over nothing? Is this ac voltage enough to interfere with other devices or is it only mains voltage ac that is capable to cause problems if it is run too close to alarm cables?
  12. Also, have any of you tried the elmdene elm300? It uses the same pcb as the prima 200/300, its a great scb internal sounder which only draws 80ma, it claims to be only 100db but I can assure you its much louder, in fact just as loud as the old 200 300 prima, only difference is current draw. My question is was the elmdene prima 200 and 300 every that power hungry? I measured the draw on old stock and some were approaching 700 ma, the rest were around the high 500 early 600ma mark. Or did they always draw that much current in alarm? mind you panels back then could support much more current, scantronic 9600 springs to mind, not like todays panels that shut down on a 10ma overload. let me know your opinions, thanks
  13. Hi all, long time no see, I have removed a few prima's recently mainly the old 200 and 300's, sadly obsolete haven't got a bad word to say about them, except maybe the soldered on board batteries were a bit of a pain to replace, other than that very loud with a bright strobe you can actually see and cool comfort leds, Only question I have is regarding the total current draw on these? I have measured a few and highest reading I got on one was approaching 700ma!, the others were around the 500 600ma ma mark, Was the prima 200/300 ever this power hungry?, or is it likely the on board batteries have become faulty over the years to draw this amount of current?, Is this the reason they were replaced with the prima 500 to keep the draw down. Just curious, thanks
  14. Thanks for the responses. I will have a good think about this and what I am going to do, For the time being its time to toughen up and put the dog in a room whenever we go out, its not cruel and I'm sure it will get used to it. I can't afford to keep compromising part of my home security for this mutt. thanks for the suggestions.
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