sixwheeledbeast

I'd probably recommend defaulting the panel in this case, if the timeline is correct then sounds like someone has remote access to your system via a Smartcom. You would be able to confirm this as you will have a small (A6 sized box with yellow stripe across the middle) mounted adjacent the control panel. Defaulting the panel should clear the app and user codes and then if you need this functionality you can set it up again would be disabled as default. The page numbers move about as the manual gets updated regularly. Section 5.6 System outputs covers everything with a pretty flow diagram.

The panel is so old you have no option but to series the bell tampers, which is how it should have been in the first place IMO. Be surprised if the tamper on the one in zone 8 works correctly No idea what all the Tamper mode or link settings do never used the Klaxon, you may find that in the instructions it tells you how to wire for two bells using the Tamper mode using another method. If you doing it the old school way like we spoke about I would believe you need to. First Bell would have TR to TR and the TS back on the spare core, join in the panel to Second Bell feeding the TR and then TS gets your neg loop from bell or panel whichever. That way no matter which bell you open you will get a tamper at the controls and they will self activate.

Leave the mains power off? If you have no evidence that it ever worked there could be anything wrong with it or the rest of the installation.

I vaguely recall your original post and it all still applies, pretty sure I covered all the pros and cons in some detail. It can depend on the bellbox, but if it has no special multiple box connections then you would just series them. I don't see where you feel it would be an issue. Wiring a bell to a zone would normally require you to have tamper lead you can separate from the PCB for it to operate correctly, this removes some of the self activating feature of the bell. If it where a new installation now with Texe I'd just use an expander input for additional bell tampers keeping them separate, but everyone's kits different as above.

I'd guess it's part of tamper circuit then, clamp it with a small terminal block if so.

Could be some part of the tamper circuit? Where does the other ends go?

I can't for whatever reason. You can attach images in the post if you need

So the alarm was/is maintained then? Seems odd to not know you had the firmware upgraded after you moved in (that FW is about 3 weeks old). I would probably drive a normal alarm sounder/speaker straight from the alarm. If it's a sounder best to to use the "Bell trig output" or an output programmed as "Bell (SAB)- Area type" Lighting would need to be a relay as you plan, you can use any output you like on any of the expanders or panel. Would be fine using "Alarm - Area Type" for this. It's all in the manual but you should find the right options from my post above.

I assume by earth you actually mean the black negative battery lead. Battery lead terminals on a Veritas are marked as BATT + and - I can't see your image so not sure if you are talking about something else.

What model Premier? What firmware? What current do you plan to pull from the output as there maybe other options depending what you are trying to do. Output programming should be as simple as finding the right output in System outputs and selecting your Area and Type (probably you want "Alarm") leaving the default attributes

Nope. It's probably not hard to access but it's not "public"

Just find it unusual, a lot of manufacturers try to distribute there firmware on a need to know basis, to make it harder to access. They are maybe concerned that someone could RE it and find some exploit, I am not saying it's a good or bad thing just unusual. I suppose exploits for IP devices are more what people are looking for, Hik took the method of obscuring there firmware files when they realised people where finding exploits.

Interesting that they have there firmware on a public FTP.

Even so the above still applies. Things like this need to be done in writing just to cover both parties. You wouldn't normally be allowed to modify any parts of a rented property as part of a TA. What happens if the alarm fails and is continually in alarm while the tenant is away for a few days. Who takes responsibility for the damage done when the local authority authorises forced entry to silence it? Currently you could it's the landlords responsibility but if you mess about with it then it would become yours.

Logan did you read any of the posts above? i understand your trying to be helpful but there is a much bigger picture you need to think about in real world situations. Ownership, liability and responsibility in this case for example.

If there is an existing wireless camera I can't believe that the tels wouldn't be sent over the wireless with the camera and the receiver have some connection for that. What use is a PTZ without tels?

It this a question or a statement? Just send tels up the coax.

iD system so if the old contact and biscuit have gone, you'll struggle to get it working. All the parts are obsolete and hard or expensive to find.

There are plenty of landlords that have a system for when the property has no tenant and wouldn't include it in the lease. I agree with above regarding getting written permission if you want to go that route, but expect to take on the responsibility of it including having it serviced annually, any repairs and faults etc.

You shouldn't play with it, get your landlord to sort it out.

PoE standard is 15w per port for PoE and 25w per port for PoE+ (Type 2)

Yes it is

You'd need an external power supply and use the EOL zone and output bit like a Powermax, been a while since I worked on one tho. They don't take the expander module from the 30, just a relay board.

Upto you on the aesthetics really, clips look terrible on render like that. Personally I'd be thinking white 20mm conduit female ends straight into vandal resistant domes. Drill through the corner for the back one. This is all if you can't do it from inside of course. I imagine if someone did it on cost, cable ties down the drain pipe lash it across the flat roof but you did say you came here for professional advice.

Larger PoE Devices maybe PoE+ aka Type 2 (25W) this means you may need an injector depending on your switch or NVR.