sixwheeledbeast

Replacing transformers wouldn't be general practice at all, you would replace the whole control panel. It's all down to competence with being able to connect and isolate the electrical/electronics if your DIYing.

Puts ash in plastic bag and then in a cupboard with fire starting materials?!... FFS There is more than a staff training issue here.

Stuff that you turnover mostly to DIYers is bound to come back more often than trade tho.

There are lots of things branded "Vista" some maybe not related to Vista CCTV either. Most technical support for products would only be supplied to companies within the industry. I don't recognise the model from the inside image maybe some outside images may help if you need to identify the model. We do not provide defaulting or installation manuals here as per our guidelines. However, it's common for the reset procedure to be only available to the trade via tech support using some method like the serial number and date for example. Exact method will vary via model if it's possible. Pulling the CMOS battery would only reset the time and as they are just little embedded linux boxes, there isn't any normally any pins to short for a reset, it's most likely you will have damaged something doing that TBH. It's probably why it's been shifted on ebay in the first place, if the seller has no idea of the access details I would get rid.

You would need ADT or some alarm installer to default it. They would then be able to access installer mode and delete devices, this is not a customer function. While some electricians do alarms it's considered a separate trade if you do need to find someone. Any fault beeps will happen when the system is unset for 4 hours, then 4 hours after any user interaction. Assuming the system is programmed correctly and you can "home" arm the system that would stop the beeping in the evening/night time. Powering the system down would require getting up some ladders to the external sounder (assuming it has one) as this would activate.

Yep If you have just switched ISP that would be the logical start. Websafe has been a common source of complains for random apps and services not working, not sure about your device particularly tho. I wouldn't use any ISP provided router tat myself especially if I was hosting services but generally people aren't bothered if it works I suppose... iOS 14.3 was released mid December if that helps.

It's pretty unusual for the E/E time to be left at the default 10 seconds in most scenarios you always need longer. I would assume from this the system has crashed and lost it's memory, they are known for having NVM issues as they age and it will be getting on to at least 25 years old for even a later model. We don't know the service history of the system but most would recommend you consider upgrading the system for reliability. To change the timers in the meantime you would have to get access to the engineer mode via a engineering code and then input the 2 digit function for the timer you want to edit. Without this engineer code you will need to reset the NVM, which personally I wouldn't want to be messing with on these due to above. We don't provide engineering manuals or defaulting information here as per our guidelines.

Still going to be a while yet, you have to migrate everyone on that exchange and the fibre isn't going to pull itself in. TBH I think most domestics would be happy to just get a reliable 80/20 FTTC connection as standard.

Isn't Vauxhall the equivalent of having a Paragon tho?...

Amusing your scraping the panel for something modern and higher end there are multiple ways to achieve this. Concerns come around the convenience versus security of the solution you use. Consider that if your device to open your door also unset the system too, how easily compromised the system is. Normally when designing systems where you E/E via garage I would want the system to set on garage door close but not completely unset on opening. Have some other action to confirm your switching the system off for example.

TS900 are pretty robust if installed correctly and serviced regularly. Still things don't last forever, I often find TS series panels overloaded with failing transformers. It's also common for the keypads to wear out to the point you need a hammer to press the buttons. You can try cleaning them and changing the code but at that point your delaying the inevitable. From memory you would need a 900+ panel for prox to work, so the only way on a 900 would be some third party setting device programed onto a zone, it's not worth the effort compared against an upgrade IMO.

Connect the bell to the strobe?... You'll get the bell ringing on a day mode tamper I would suggest find or make (relay etc) a suitable "-ve bell mimic" output Bit odd to have +ve trig default on modern stuff anyway tho...

Pretty rare for NiCD to bust like that without a dead short or overvoltage....

Most decent hybrid panels will do this. Everyone has there own preferences.

I use Draytek stuff myself, it's all down to costs. You need it to be PoE?

I am all for keeping serviceable well maintained systems irrelevant of age. From the pictures I wouldn't be wasting time on that mess and want to be upgrading it. You can't expect a cheap domestic onboard panel to work in a dusty/dirty environment for very long. It also appears to have been lacking any maintenance with one of those batteries in and what's with the two woodscrews holding the transformer in...

Panic button pressed somewhere?

If you have no knowledge of it's service history replacing it for something modern would be the sensible option.

If it's been reset, do you know if the rest of the panel is programmed right? I have known them to not save some settings you program in when they are dying. Really wants replacing if you want it to be reliable.

Your panel will be the "Texecom/Menvier/Scantronic" setting "4K7/2K2" I expect

If it's got built in resistors they don't "sort automatically" but you set them from the instruction with jumpers. Manufacturers use different values for there kit so most PIR's have the options to cover them all.

1) Tamper terminals on PIR will be marked meter them and simulate closing the lid. 2) yep. All values should be monitored for a little while and be steady, although no guarantees on finding a very intermittent cable fault, chances point more towards the PIR but need to test these things.

I can't see a unit conforming for response without some controls.

Eaton? 76x with 726's

You could have everything on FE if you wanted although it's not advised. Bear in mind the more you put on the entry route the less "instant" protection you have. Personally I always try to avoid having systems on timed exit but you have no option if you have no other way to terminate the setting procedure.