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About backofthenet

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  1. Did put new battery in - old one was disconnected and past it's useful life anyway - suspect it was orginal. Also done all the tests including real life tests and the PIR's / Door sensors seem to activate when intruder detected haven't "real life" checked every PIR just the obvious ones but it's wearing a bit thin with her indoors now so one to finish once she is out.
  2. Got to say - I Know nothing about alarm systems but I am impressed that something 30 years old that has not really been maintained looks like it is in good working order. OK the outside bells were toast but they have had the elements hitting them since 1994. Also although I did replace the PIR's all round (mainly due to decorating and the old ones had gone that cream colour that shows age) I do think the original PIR's were better than what I have replaced them with. Does the Optima 2 Plus have a good reputation in the Industry?
  3. Agreed - I wasted my money in a way on the surface mounts in a way - although only £7.50 - as I now have everything working including an alarm that arms and goes off during an intruder event. as an enthusiastic amateur I'm delighted to say the least. Two final issues I had 1. The alarm would not arm itself - always had 1 high pitched beep followed by 3 low pitched beep's when entering customer code and this would just go on and on and the alarm would not set - by trial and error this was solved by omitting ZONE 3 when arming - at which point the alarm arm
  4. Not really (know what i am doing) but have learnt a ,lot with the help of you Guy's - now have modern working bell boxes. Just put the control panel through all it's tests in engineer mode 1. External bell - Pass 2. External strobe - Pass 3. Internal low volume bell on control panel - pass 4. Internal high volume bell on control panel - pass 5. Walk test - zones - fail - Zone 4 causing issues - I think next thing for the same of £10 or so is to change all the surface mount magnetic door contacts - 4 in all - as they look a bit 1994! ref
  5. Ha ha - the two old 1994 external sounders i have just thrown away at the tip did'nt have this feature so thought i was moving into the 21st century.
  6. yep 100% blue is connected to strobe negative in the bell box - i'll make the control panel change in the morning and move blue to strobe -ve in control panel on a side note I didn't realise with these bell boxes that the Left and Right LED's alternate slow flash when in operation even if alarm not set - which is a good feature.
  7. The bell unit is still working in test mode just no strobe - which is why i think i need to move the blue cable in the control unit from terminal 48 and put it into terminal 49 (strobe -ve)
  8. No - both white and blue wires are connected in the panel - white to 49 and blue to 48 BUT the blue wire in the original external second unit did not have the blue wire connected at all - I connected the blue wire to the new external second unit
  9. Hi, thanks for the reply - if you look at the control panel then "strobe" is identified as 48 and 49 - both have a connection going in - 48 blue and 49 white although the manual seems to suggest that only 49 is -ve does that mean i need to take the blue wire out of terminal 48 and put it into terminal 49 as well along woth the white cable. (i'm assuming that the blue wire in 48 is the cable that goes to bell 2 with the non working strobe?) also if i'm in engineer mode can i take the front panel off the control unit and prevent a tamper?
  10. Hi - Update, Have now wired in both Texacom's Front of house all working fine. Rear of house - bell works fine but no strobe - can't understand why as the control panel strobe connections are wired 48 blue and 49 white - so connected front strobe to 49 - white and that works - rear to 48 - blue and that won't strobe. I must admit that on the oriiginal config the blue was not connected to strobe in rear but green was - but no green wire is connected to strobe on control panel - only blue and white. One other point - i have both external boxes se
  11. Thanks all, i'm happy with having a working system but drawing minimal load based o it's age - 1994 So based on minimal load on system I will set jumper 1 = battery on both units and jumper 2 = SCB on both units unless you disagree think the neighbours might appreciate less loud alarms anyway
  12. Thanks All, any advice on the correct jumper settings for external unit 1 & 2 i think unit 1 can be factory set but unit 2 must be jumper 1 = battery on and jumper 2 = SCB ?
  13. Thanks The bells have the following terminals A (12V ) Permanent Positive Supply B (BELL) Negative Applied Output to Activate Siren C (TAMP) Negative Removed on Tamper Input D (0V) Permanent Negative Supply S (STRB) Negative Applied Output to Activate Strobe
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