sixwheeledbeast

We get people asking allsorts of wacky things here, some are DIYers some are not. If you are getting an installer in then kit manufacturer selection will be down to them, they should have staff trained on products they fit to provide the best support. Wired will always be better IMO but I see no issue in hybrid for your purpose, radio kit will need battery replacements and could in theory be jammed. Top end kit should detect this. There is a gap but I consider it important to be partitioned away personally, security is all about layers and one software exploit that could get past every layer is not smart. It's a topic the industry as a whole is still trying to provide a solution with lots of opinions. Consumers want functionality but manufacturers, installers and insurers would have concerns with liability if a system failed to operate. Usually getting quotes from 3 places is recommended. Generally you wouldn't choose solely on price but during this you will find a company you feel the most comfortable with providing your requirements.

More used to the keypad over Wintex so not sure where you have done this. It won't be related to the Custom Output but most likely Control Timers as they can have a Chime option. On the keypad it's shown as a star in the Control Timer menu toggled with the Chime button.

Are you planning to do this yourself? It makes most of your list irrelevant if so. Your limiting your options if you want a system with an app that isn't fitted by an installation company. You wouldn't integrate alarms and cameras like that, any system that false alarms is obviously pointless and probably fitted incorrectly. Sounds like you think you know what you want but haven't considered how it "should" be done.

Run the cable drill through later. Loft's are bad places for control boxes, wild temperature changes and access issues.

Well in that case it's your system. Who has the engineer code is irrelevant to this. I'd say sounds cheap in that case but will also depend on area.

Weird setup to have a call out charge for the service if your on maintenance? I would want to fit my own batteries (as an installer) that way I can use a brand that is supported by the manufacturer and offer some warranty on my work. Generally maintenance would be an annual inspection, and batteries are covered (checked or replaced) as part of that. Different batteries for different parts of the system would last a different amount of time. I replace most annually, but the average would be 2 years for radio devices; installer should keep track of all this as necessary.

If he is responsible for maintenance then you leave it up to him to replace anything, including the batteries. Monitoring condition of the batteries and replacing with the correct type as necessary would be part of the service/preventive maintenance. Users shouldn't have access to engineers functions as part of the standards.

Who is responsible for maintaining your system? There is a option to allow only the Master user tino the battery replacement mode but it's engineers configurable and default as off.

We do not provide defaulting or installation manuals here as per our guidelines. However, I am sure your favourite search engine of choice will provide.

You have two options if your doing yourself... try it and hope or no system. The installer should know how to deal with a lost engineers code, which may involve reprogramming the system. You should leave it up to them if you are under support obviously.

What does it say on your contract of employment, WTR can be wavered in there to avoid issues for the company.

Under the second plant pot on the right WFM

Depends what you mean as a "closed system". Remote monitoring to an ARC is more secure than a stand alone bells only system. Either way this topic is more about the distribution of firmware, I pretty much covered my opinion in the quote.

Down power the panel you'll get the bell ringing outside, that'll help find an intermittent beep...

You can't boost a signal that's inside a faraday cage...

Sounds real pro...

Well to much current for 7Ah. At least 12hours standby with one full activation. Some systems depending on the grade and signalling would be 24 hours plus one activation. Aux/Fault is Aux/Fault and Bell tamper is Bell tamper from the return, log will show this. Outputs are all programmable in software the bigger panels are already setup for LED control OOTB, wouldn't expect LED Control not being OOTB is an issue on domestic market the 24 is aimed at. I have already said what outputs for LED's should be programmed as. Don't use pull up resistors on the outputs.

Bigger PSU on the metal cab doesn't matter regarding SAB, your limited by the standby battery hence only one SAB would be the norm. Just set them to LC and recalculate or at least one to SCB, you have too much current IMO. Trigger is the output rating hence why you can wire 2 wire sounders in +ve and trig and they make a noise. Follow the manufacturer instructions for wiring tampers on Ody boxes you usually remove MSW on the first and series with MSW on second. Panels have outputs for PIR led's no resistors just straight from the output programmed "LED Control" They are all +ve to disable and no connection(NC) for LED enable AFAIK, but I generally use other manufacturers for detection

Texecom is now installer registered for Smartcom app. V1 Smartcom app is no longer available for new installs.

As I said in my OP, for wireless its batteries only, transmission via radio. Alternatively you could wire with alarm cable signalling via wiring the latter would be considered a "hybrid" system. Having the power supply outside of the sounder casing would be a security issue. Wired ones are self contained with a "hold-off" that would activate if the cable is cut for this reason.

I would wire the bell in alarm cable myself. I don't have any parts in mind to suit your full list of requirements. Had to fit those Mains sounders on one job in the past and I wouldn't recommend them at all. I am also pretty sure they are discontinued with no direct replacement, the 740 is batteries.

The is little point in transmitting power via a cable without messages. Completely wireless is no wiring, it's wired or wireless option per device. A wire would be multicore and provide power and trigger, tamper signals back to control panel. The SMPS is part of the control panel normally with proprietary or some molex connector as SMPS will need to provide fault output to conform to standards. Never seen any pro kit utilise solar it's a bit pointless kit has to be designed for all environments. It's also designed in a way that it can't be tampered with, or power removed without triggering an alert on the system. DIY stuff doesn't have standards to conform to so can often be easily defeated.

Are we talking professional kit? If so... Systems vary based on manufacturer but power source for the panel is generally mains connection to a switch mode power supply with some DC output to the PCB. This is contained within the panels cabinet. External sounders could be completely wireless or possibly have option for wired back to the panel in standard alarm cable with 12v connection (these would also have battery). They are suitable for external weather but are not IP rated. Batteries are mostly Lithium disposable and would have to be replaced periodically. External sounder batteries vary from manufacturer and can be special. Wireless would usually tie you to that manufacturer for wireless components, so all products need to be from the same product line, industry are mostly 868Mhz now but that doesn't mean you can mix products. I would generally use a hybrid system, wire as much as I can and use wireless only where necessary.

Probably best to leave the existing one in if it's all working and servicable. Ripping something out and not knowing how to replace it seems a daft idea. So many things could go wrong and you'd be left with an non-working system plus annoying the neighbours outside with the bell ringing and no way to isolate it. You explain everything you believe you understand but not much on what you need help with. If you are going to try this yourself then setting up the new system separately (bench test) would be the way to go. Make sure all the programming for panel and sensors is correct, simulate all your sensors with loops of wire or resistors, testing outputs with a multimeter. Get everything right before you start, DIY often spend months asking questions on why x and y isn't working, it's a security system after all, as much use as a chocolate fireguard if setup wrong.

Different images maybe slightly different issue. You can't compare with front camera as that is still in day mode.