sixwheeledbeast

A DIY'er is unlikely to care for running wires and an installer needs systems to conform to BS/EN, they are completely separate markets. ADT will not be interested in helping a DIY project, they make money from contract systems. If it's DIY and your insurance don't care you can do what you want (within reason) but don't expect it to work correctly or provide any usable evidence if it was required. Touch screen are pointless and expensive when pulled off the wall and stamped on, an installer being called to that after a break in wouldn't have a spare, leaving you without a system after a break in...

It's beeping 9 times indicating a Tamper, locate the tamper with a multimeter? If the system hasn't been service in a long while the charging circuit may be faulty and should be checked before a battery replacement. You can walk test without entering engineers mode but it's not going to help here. If you not sure what your doing get an installer to look at it. Ignoring it or leaving it unmaintained will only cause you more issues in the future. Systems need regular maintenance or they will let you down at the most inconvenient time and upset your neighbours. It's a red light model so Pre-2k meaning it's over 22 years old, any manual you find on the internet will likely be the wrong one for that model... Also don't reuse that code.

Logic would say if you have enough wires, stick a wire in everything deal with it at the panel end later... From a DIY POV anyway...

There won't be a dedicated one, it means an output needs programming to that type. Should work fine without it.

The panel is faulty either way if the memory has been lost, the keypad is part of the system and are compatible with each other, you're not finding a panel that will work with that 30 year old keypad. They are pretty resilient panels to surges and short circuits to be fair, but it's done it's time. Could diagnose the same from what you have said in OP. Things that I wouldn't be able to tell you is if the keypad is worn on some of the digits, this may have stopped them accessing the panel for example. Maybe their engineers were not even born when the panel was manufactured and not seen one to work on... Either way keypad is of no use so may as well be dead. Prices will vary a lot based on location, installer, approval, kit quality etc etc.

No there is no magic off switch, this would defeat the system. Systems need to be maintained or they will let you down. If the system has lost it's memory the NVM is failing the system should be upgraded.

Most will say the panel has done it's time, I'd agree. You say it's in working order but what tests have you done to prove this? how regular has it been maintained over it's life? Buzzing transformers are often a sign of overloading when it comes to alarms they can go that way with age but usually if you test the panel has too much load. Occasionally it can be the mounting of the panel is uneven and amplifying the sound which can be checked but usually it just a sign it will fail. If you really what you locate a replacement with the same rating you could, but it will not be long until something else will give up.

Yale easy to kill with no sound but it's not graded, just DIY junk.

We don't provide defaulting information or manuals here as per our guidelines. External sounder only lasting 5 minutes means something is wrong. B or A would be the sensible, depends if you actually care and/or if your insurance cares.

I wouldn't pull anything off the wall unless you had a backup plan for if your external sounder will not silence itself; like a set of ladders and basic tools. There is no magic off button or procedure, that could be exploited. If you do pull it off the wall just be aware of the electrocution risks.

If rental I'd be thinking about if its for use by the tenants or if it's for just between tenancy, before making any decision on a new system, installer or not etc.

It's all covered in the thread please read. Please start a new topic.

Does it make any sound or is it only the entry/exit tones? If it's a loudspeaker then you can check it's impedance and wiring from the panel. Either way you need a mutlimeter and some idea how to use one, unless your going to diagnose with trial and error.

Took weeks but here's the statement from the company. https://community.security.eufy.com/t/to-our-eufy-security-customers-and-partners/3568215 Apparently "local only" means use the cloud for messages but not analytics... who knew... Pft joke of a product and company like the rest of this pro-sumer tat.

Zone inputs but you need to program them accordingly.

A Premier 24, £4 W1209 module and custom outputs...

Website says EN50131 (Parts 1,3,5,6,10) but your declaration of conformity appears to not...?

Evidence tracking advertising works then...

I thought you had swapped the RIO?

I am no Galaxy expert but have you done any tests on the bus? I have known people to remove the termination to solve some issues. Is there a ground loop? Resite the RIO adjacent to the downstream one on a metre of cable?

ADE Accenta, all obsolete now. Best to upgrade system of that age. Not working in what way? What is the condition of the rest of the system? You could risk buying used but who knows how long that will last.

I don't fit Ion however... This seems like "Siren battery" so most likely an external siren. Most wireless systems do not alert when they are armed, some panels you can silence these beeps for a short period of time (disarming procedure). Ideally you wouldn't let the system battery get to this point. When was the system last serviced?

I didn't know iron oxide was so expensive... If I leave old metal panels out in the rain do they go up in value?

Depends, I have known panel to sink negative and retrigger the hold off.

That is correct. With a fully operational system if you power down the inside the siren will activate. Fully decommissioning a system usually involves ladders and earplugs. They are designed that way so a burglar can't disable them easily from the inside.