sixwheeledbeast

Most "smart hybrid systems" your not going to get app features without an installer. If your planning to use an installer they will recommend the kit they support. Lightsys from my little experience with them go crazy as they age with no obvious cause. Power cycling works as a short term fix. You're asking about features like apps and touchscreens that IMO are irrelevant to a good system...

The only benefits of linear is they are simple and less noisy. They are heavy and consume a lot more power. Rectification circuit dumps energy as heat, especially so for alarms due to the headroom we have. I do prefer a good linear supply for audio but they have seen there day for everything else.

Make sure this is the "Master" user menu not a "Standard" user or Arming Menu. It does have to be allowed by the engineer so may not be there. If the bell tamper cleared with the user code and nothing has changed it's likely not set for engineer tamper reset then. Before you start make sure your company doesn't cover these batteries if they have failed mid-term and be aware if you have a contract self replacement may not be allowed. Companies will monitor battery consumption to detect a faulty component, if you throw mid term batteries in you can mask this issue from them. If you do still DIY use decent UL listed batteries, you would usually replace all devices at the same time as they will be similar age.

I am sure their electricity bill and mortgage is the same... It's all down to programming, it maybe locked to cover themselves from any tampering and/or cheap batteries causing damage or fires. If it's a modern version wireless Texecom and user battery replacements are allowed and setup correctly, you can use the "Start Battery Replacement" setting in the Master User Menu. You will have 60 minutes to replace the batteries and all devices you take apart will be logged.

You can't omit entry zones, that would defeat the point of them.

The SMPS will be likely be blown like above. You can't test more than in and out unless you open and they are not designed to be user serviceable. You could try power cycling everything and a new battery but most likely you need a new one.

If you don't turn over loads of them to pick out the bad explody ones. Then look for UL listed then you know they meet a safe standard.

That's why they use so much leccy...

Agreed they do fail with age and it is old one-way stuff, so weak security for low risk. Still would expect battery fault to clear at least for a week or so with a faulty device.

Systems need servicing, batteries don't last forever. I would replace all the device batteries if it's been that long, even if only one is showing. Do you know what device Z02 is, sensors are CR123.

Internet and social media blow everything out of proportion, mainstream news is following suit it gets more clicks and revenue. It's twisting the way the majority of the public interact in society IMO. Opinions are now polarising and not collaborative, no one person has the right answer to everything... The more people you listen to, the broader your picture becomes. People don't listen and often only seek out confirmation of their bias.

Sounds about right

It may seem like a different country to you but we still except UK sterling up here. Give someone in Leeds Roubles for some veg you'll get yed kicked in...

I fail to see how to come to that conclusion or why I would call a locksmith to an alarm system? To the OP, as much as you have started again "at both ends" how would you know there isn't a junction box or connection somewhere in the middle that the colours change? Have you tested all this wiring with a multimeter? EOL is a good start to minimise the connections/wires required but it's not fully clear what exactly you need help with, which may be indicated by the lack of contributions on the topic.

Don't fit ADE but I would have a good read through the manual, something will be incorrectly programmed somewhere.

It sounds like programming issue. Can you trigger the issue yourself or is the customer setting it wrong? Is the wrong part set programmed, are the zones correct, these are the things I'd be looking for.

I'd prefer to live on pizza, chips and curry.

I feel they are mostly thought of as an electrical installation where it may need a rewire at some distant point in time, but it isn't the components are electronic and far from basic like outlets and switches. How many other electronic things around the house last for decades...

Can you expand on the fault a bit more? Does it activate while unset? What is shown when it goes off? When was it last serviced? How often and for how long has this been happening?

Cover them in wallpaper paste no tampering necessary, hence why walk test should be done. Agreed tho, tamper switches are day mode detection, you would hope the system was already activated if set.

A proper system is all down to it's design. A tamper is just a first line of defeat detection. If you were to rip all the inners out of the control panel the external sounder would be triggered from it's own battery; in a correctly designed fully operational system. This is why it's important to have a system serviced regular, if a component fails and you don't pick it up it maybe relatively easy to defeat the system.

You'd have to be able to buy one first... I agree it's over simplified to say a DT will have less false alarms than a PIR. You need to know how they work and fit to the environment. But experienced people in the trade understand this.

Easiest would be swapping the circuits in the panel I suppose. That's if everything else is programmed correctly.

Level crossing telephones with no local power was what I found? Called Type 6 in US as they are 6 inch high.

40Ah alkaline cells. I suppose these are still in use for other applications for them to still be in manufacturer, even if it is very low quantity.