sixwheeledbeast

You don't really explain your issue or ask a question. A 48-W has the wireless builtin so it makes little sense to be adding expanders to it. Radio keypads use a lead to enroll if you have no other keypad access. Explain the details of the current system and what exactly your trying to do. What you have done or not, etc.

Best ... as in, a product with a rattly buzzy transformer and also heatmarks top left as the plastic ages... has only 8 zones ... limited options for everything programming (input or output)... LED display... inadequate event log... In it's day it was fine for your basic/terraced house. Wouldn't think about fitting one, just maintenance if it was still fit for purpose.

The app isn't designed to be setup by a user, you are talking about the installation experience not the end user experience. IMO they are all a waste of time, everything of a certain value has to have an app in modern society to justify it as a product... I haven't had any issues setting up Texecom apps but I'll say again... it doesn't matter which, it's the installers services you need the assurance from as they'll choose the kit. Everyone has a different opinion on what is best manufacturer but if your not switching installer it will not matter, they should know the product they fit inside out.

As much as price is a consideration you need to have confidence in the company, it will vary based on a number of factors including area. It's a service industry not a fitting industry you want ongoing support not fit and run...

I had the exact same story before Covid, ENT can't find anything but regularly got tinnitus which to me is a "hum", the more you think about it the more it comes back. After several years of this I can say you seem to just block it out most of the time. The more you worry about it the more you can trigger it.

My first thoughts are Tinnitus which could be triggered while being at home. It would be good to isolate your own electrics like above to see if it's something around your home. It's difficult to describe these sounds but the way you say "humming" makes me think of classic 50Hz transformer hum which would most likely be in your house if that's the case. The frequencies used by access points 2.4Ghz> and alarm systems 868Mhz are everywhere. It wouldn't make sense to have the symptoms be just at your home plus any of the shelf product would be EMC compliant. Do you even know if the neighbours security systems are wireless? If they are not then there would be no radiation from it. These dirty electric blockers you mention are most likely a placebo, best case they are an array of MOV's or capacitors to slightly filter a nearby mains supply, fine to clean up a sine wave but very unlikely to remove an "audible noise".

Grading of the system is based from the grade of the lowest component and how it's installed. They aren't "security systems" they are "home protection systems" but sold as if they are graded security.

It's of the age that you will need to upgrade the system, or risk a second hand part that will be of equal age. The TS series is two decades dead and the M series that replaced it is decade dead. I don't believe the MKP3 that is still available for what is left of Menvier is backwards compatible.

If you read the question it sounds when wired like this, so it's a programming issue... Likely something inverted or programmed wrong.

You can lead to a lack of innovation if you only mandate one option like that. Companies will always look for the cheapest way around daft legislation, instead of pushing forwards. USB-C is far from perfect the standard is a confusing mess TBH, also the transformer part started being mostly female type A so IMO there wasn't an "issue" with waste to begin with... We are talking specialist parts here not consumer, you would have to aim for a standard sized PSU slot for alarm systems first and there is no way that would happen. It would be much better to have efficiency and durability targets mandating electronics last and have free replacements for XX years and the old ones exchanged so the manufacturer dispose/recycle them. That would remove as much disposable junk electronics from the market because if it's make cheap the manufacturer will have to foot the cost.

Then it's no point looking at panel manufacturers. You should get 3 quotes and find a company you feel comfortable with, not just the cheapest.

Still as I said above if you want an app you need an installer account...

SLA batteries are rechargeable but they have a lifecycle, deep discharges can damage them internally. The control panel if working correctly will keep the battery charged at an ideal rate. Generally a well maintained system will have it's charging rate and voltage checked annually and batteries replaced at 4-5 year intervals.

Still irrelevant without answering the other questions, a keypad is only compatible with the panel they are designed for.

Very few Texe ones stopped working as a PS (no idea about Pyronix), they just threw errors on the keypad. All electronic devices are more complex now to reduce energy, just like all ICE cars are full of electronics and valves to reduce emissions. More complex, more chance of issues, that doesn't mean you halt progress and live in a cave.

Most "smart hybrid systems" your not going to get app features without an installer. If your planning to use an installer they will recommend the kit they support. Lightsys from my little experience with them go crazy as they age with no obvious cause. Power cycling works as a short term fix. You're asking about features like apps and touchscreens that IMO are irrelevant to a good system...

The only benefits of linear is they are simple and less noisy. They are heavy and consume a lot more power. Rectification circuit dumps energy as heat, especially so for alarms due to the headroom we have. I do prefer a good linear supply for audio but they have seen there day for everything else.

Make sure this is the "Master" user menu not a "Standard" user or Arming Menu. It does have to be allowed by the engineer so may not be there. If the bell tamper cleared with the user code and nothing has changed it's likely not set for engineer tamper reset then. Before you start make sure your company doesn't cover these batteries if they have failed mid-term and be aware if you have a contract self replacement may not be allowed. Companies will monitor battery consumption to detect a faulty component, if you throw mid term batteries in you can mask this issue from them. If you do still DIY use decent UL listed batteries, you would usually replace all devices at the same time as they will be similar age.

I am sure their electricity bill and mortgage is the same... It's all down to programming, it maybe locked to cover themselves from any tampering and/or cheap batteries causing damage or fires. If it's a modern version wireless Texecom and user battery replacements are allowed and setup correctly, you can use the "Start Battery Replacement" setting in the Master User Menu. You will have 60 minutes to replace the batteries and all devices you take apart will be logged.

You can't omit entry zones, that would defeat the point of them.

The SMPS will be likely be blown like above. You can't test more than in and out unless you open and they are not designed to be user serviceable. You could try power cycling everything and a new battery but most likely you need a new one.

If you don't turn over loads of them to pick out the bad explody ones. Then look for UL listed then you know they meet a safe standard.

That's why they use so much leccy...

Agreed they do fail with age and it is old one-way stuff, so weak security for low risk. Still would expect battery fault to clear at least for a week or so with a faulty device.

Systems need servicing, batteries don't last forever. I would replace all the device batteries if it's been that long, even if only one is showing. Do you know what device Z02 is, sensors are CR123.