sixwheeledbeast

I would prefer to re-use the wiring if the installation and it's wiring looks decent. Wireless varies greatly based on manufacturer, all devices being "two-way" or "mesh" are the key things. No point in sending wireless messages and not knowing if they arrive. You have to factor in wireless kit is more expensive and ongoing maintenance will be more expensive due to battery replacements. I wouldn't necessarily be put off by a rewire if required. With a decent experienced engineer and depending on the property intruder rewiring can often be done with minimal disruption.

Upto 13.9Vdc is what I would usually consider fine, but this is all part of servicing to make sure the voltage regulator is still ok. It's down to design, you need the headroom from the regulator to charge the battery correctly. Transformer output will be around 19Vac for example. PIR's are all different but usual working voltages will be 11-15 ish. As long as there isn't a random device, junction box or other joint somewhere, paint by colours should work fine.

If you want to not have a tamper that's up to you. It should have been used for all the zone wiring but as you can see will somewhat function without. Need to be certain there are no other contacts on that wiring, if that's what your doing.

Regarding the door contact, you would need to have at least a working 6 (or more) core cable to the location. Door contacts maybe only 4 core.

I would always fit Quad Element PIRs as standard. False alarms may not be related to the PIR's, although looking at those old Pyronix things I swap them anyway... Testing the panel with a multimeter for any issues would be the first job, standby battery issues, charging rate etc. Then all the PIR wiring resistance itself ideally compare to as fitted values. Any security movement sensor would do but you get what you pay for, I look for Optex and Bosch for example. The panel has the wrong lid screws in which is often a concern about the history of who has been poking about in there... What looks like dirty heat marks on the top number row and on the wall top right could be a sign of failing or overload.

If your not sure how to do these multimeter tests above I doubt there is a suitable DIY replacement. The is no point replacing the panel if you can't test these things to commission the new one IMO. I would also suggest the external sounder be checked and possibly replaced if it was found to be faulty from it making a weak sound. 7Vdc is not enough something is faulty or not working correctly. Maybe the power is down and the new battery has drained out. Would need to test this.

General maintenance system checks with a multimeter would be a start. Primary and secondary voltages, charging rate, output voltages etc. Seems maybe external was running on it's battery which shouldn't be the case at all with the mains on. I would imagine if it's not had much maintenance and with it's age you'll likely need a new control panel.

Self install would have zero to minimal support or instructions, products are designed to be installed by trained engineers. I wouldn't recommend you take to DIYing stuff when it's under contract as that would invalidate any support contract or may tamper lockout. Wouldn't be impressed if a customer called me to say I have moved the keypad myself and it no longer works come fix it...

That's the exact opposite of what I would expect from any installer. Unfair to make that comment so broad considering it's only one company they may just be sparks with alarms on the side for all we know. Any incoming installer SHOULD reprogram the system, otherwise they take the risk the outgoing installer programmed the system incorrectly. You will need an installer at some point it's not going to service itself and when it breaks with no contract your going to have fun finding someone short notice.

No data to the keypad. Not sure why a company would support a system that you have retained the engineers code.

Lights are applications that don't matter too much for stability they are unlikely to be switched mode more dropper style circuits. Computer PSU's need to be very stable but are much larger and more expensive. Neither can be compared for the application of an alarm. A poorly designed SMPS will be noisy and have poor efficiency at a low load for example, linear is much simpler to get smooth supply in a small package. Linear can also have a better life expectancy due to the lower complexity but that is unlikely to be a huge concern in modern electronics... if you get 10 years out of it. As I understand it Elmdene make many of the SMPS on behalf of panel manufacturers and even they have had issues during the design process. As much as copper has increased so have costs for other components and materials relative. You also may have to get your product you have been selling for years re-tested for sale in the market this all adds cost. There are as always two sides to the story.

They are simpler to manufacturer and integrate. Many later models have switched

The system sounds far too complex to give any meaningful DIY help with beyond what's been covered. Main reason for the Chinese duopoly is cost, plenty of alternative stuff on the market but everyone wants stuff doing yesterday for nothing. I doubt your going to get existing stuff with it's tels working on a PC card, I think you should find yourself a good CCTV installer willing to put decent gear in.

Never used one, but doesn't look like the standard 4+1 that you can use pretty much any. https://doorentrydirect.com/media/product_attach_files/g/d/gdx_-_23121_-_datasheet.pdf

Edge is just skinned chrome now, try it and cross your fingers?

Chrome was the last browser to support ActiveX plugins, Firefox disabled them a good while ago. DM went bust mostly because they were slow to assess market changes, their gear cost at least twice the price of newer stuff with less features. Now we are left with any innovative companies being absorbed into Chinese giants and a heavy focus on as cheap as possible for large parts of the market.

Normally zone lights while setting would indicate fuse blown. You would need a multimeter and some knowledge how to use it to find out why. Systems need regular service or they are not reliable, some people are lucky and get away with it for years... until there is a power cut and find the whole system is shot from no maintenance.

You don't really ask a question, but hybrid units are available as are tels passthrough units. It's probably more cost effective to replace the system now, years ago you would consider conversion like this. Far too complex a system to give any more help than that without seeing it.

I haven't got much patience with Risco stuff, especially the Lightsys, they do odd things. Really you would need to pull all field wiring and just wire the keypad on 1m of cable to prove the panel.

Anything using ActiveX is junk for me, I wouldn't bother with it. ActiveX is dead and unsupported. I don't know the unit but I can't imagine connecting via telnet will get you any further to what you need even if you did. The DS2 is a solid machine and was top end in it's day, it's just limited now in quality being only composite. Also client software will be dead and uncompatible like most old stuff.

I have heard that before but I cba with it hanging around, postage, messers or ebay from a seller POV... Meanwhile it's always bin day somewhere.

Who buys this junk, I put an 8 zone version in the bin a while ago. Horrid thing.

Mostly the older stuff and only when I have to. Not played with a PM33 much, I know PM really don't like having any modules added live. Maybe start with a power cycle. Ribbon is keyed make sure it's pressed home correctly. Zones are EOL 2K2/2K2, I think?

Not recommendations but our listings. https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/forum/268-uk-security-installers-by-regional-police-force/

If it's never been serviced it could be knackered. It may cost you that for the tools and bits you need to work out what's wrong.