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Rekusu

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  1. Knew it! Purists. Not saying it is the most elegant solution, but this RKP is in the garage so am not overly concerned with the appearance. I could certainly have done a better job with taps and dies, etc, but don't have access to those tools. Yes, it is not the most expensive alarm but what does one get for more money? Ass an alarm, it works, it activates the sounder when triggered; what more do I want? The electronics are fine, they do what they say on the box so why should anyone have to spend £25 just to get a new case? And only because the case is poorly designed. The control box plastic case is much better designed with the plastic tabs being stronger. But I do agree that fixing the issue may not be everyone's cuppa. It is mine; I installed the system and set it up when I built the house
  2. I have an Accenta Mini Gen4 alarm and also recently also had the Tamper Fault Lockout message. Certainly I was partly to blame as I had moved the location of the key pad and to do that, had to remove the cover. After all the expert advice (get and expert to service the alarm / buy a replacement keypad / passed its design life / etc) I managed to cure the problem myself. As far as I can see, the keypad case is very poorly designed; the two tabs at the top and the screw fitting at the bottom are not really designed to the absolute minimum strength required. Because I had removed the bottom screw, when replaced, it did not fully close the case; there was around 0.5mm of 'play and this was sufficient to activate the tamper switch. I bodged some new 'tabs' on the top and bottom, fitted locking pins at the top. At the bottom, I reinforced the screw tab with epoxy and redrilled. Also, stretched the tamper spring a bit. The pureists will shoot me down, but the result was it now all works, no Tamper Fault Lockout message and did not have to buy a new keypad.
  3. Gentlemen, All fixed, cable repaired and display back, doing what it should. Additional measures taken to ensure that the mouse cannot nibble the cables where they are completely inaccessible. The neighbour has also had the council vermin guy around and poison bait has been scattered around. Hopefully, all good for a few years!
  4. Yes, could be an IT nerd but certainly, disconnecting the mains and battery input and reconnecting, did bring the display back to life. However, although the battery is showing 12v, I will replace it. But in all likelihood, the battery was not the main issue, a mouse having a meal of the cables was! I can repair it and then protect to ensure that mouse cannot have dessert.
  5. Gentlemen, Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. I guess it was around 4 years ago the I installed her system so yes, it is probably time for a battery change. I am visiting this afternoon so will take my volt-meter along and check it. An electrical expert (computer?) suggested that by de-powering the system for a few minutes, that should reactive the display. I'll give that a shot and let you know. I image my last post was the installation of her system! Again, thanks to all
  6. What ho one and all, Some years ago, I installed a G4 Accenta Mini with LCD display for an elderly neighbour. It was not a problem as there was already existing wiring and I 'kinda' knew what I was doing because I had installed the same for myself. Until today, it has worked with no problems. However, this morning and about two hours later, while she was in the house and the alarm was not set, it activated. She turned it off both times with her code and then called me. I wanted to view the log, but the LCD display is only showing a top line of 'black' squares, no lettering; the lower line shows nothing. I tested the alarm and it is working as it should; the Walk Test, the sounder, all working fine. I have been reading the manual but can find nothing regarding resetting the display. However, there is a possible other issue. This morning, around the same time she said the alarm activated, I believe we had an instant, very brief power outage and again, two hours later. I think this because my wife told me that when was using her computer, it all went dead. I found a relay we use had turned off, reset and all was fine. Then around two hours later, the same thing and I think the room lights flashed off for a brief instant, but the computers certainly did. Could this have caused her alarm to activate and if so, as it was not set, why? But of more importance, how do I reset the display? Toodle pip and thanks Rex
  7. Me again! I am OK with wiring the alarm and following a diagram, but I feel a bit lost on this one. Given that it is only two wires from the Sound Bomb, it cannot be so difficult. Although the G4 Mini manual says, "Extension speakers may be connected to the loudspeaker terminals to produce high volume alarm tones and low volume entry / exit / fault tones." It also says "Up to two 16 ohm extension speakers may be wired across the speaker terminals." The Sound Bomb is 12v dc and 85mA current consumption, and listed as being compatible with any alarm panel. So does the SndBmb just wire up to the D = Positive (+Ve) supply (12V) and B = Negative (-Ve) Sounder trigger? Thanks Rex
  8. Gentlemen, Thanks for the input. I have just spoken with Honeywell and they say that if the Sound Bomb is connected to the pcb speaker terminals, I will hear every nosie the alsrm makes, and that included exit /entry. I don't mind an additional noise on exit / entry, but I don't want a siren activating! They suggest what you do, connect it to the bell output but he does not think it will work as the max is 1a and with the external sounder and seven PIRs, may not have sufficient umph. Rex
  9. Hi there, X years ago, when I built my house, I installed an Accenta G4 alarm with external bell box. All is working as it should. Unfortunately, I never gave a thought to an internal sounder (Sound Bomb?) and would like to add one (or two.) The main one would be right next to the control panel so wiring is not an issue, but of the output terminals on the PCB, which are for an internal sounder? The manual says that I can add an extension speaker to emulate entry /exit / warning tones, but that is not want I want. I want to blow the intruders' ear drums if he/she activates the alarm! It would be good if I could add another sound bomb to the first floor, but the wiring is not in place. Given that there are only two wires, could a pair from a PIR be used to if a suitable connection is made on the PCB/ Thanks Rex
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