sixwheeledbeast

All the SAB modules I used in the past where dipped, surprised to see one without. Should have a 15 minutes cut off to conform, you don't want the council charging you for getting a summons to silence your bell. The basic circuits on Ron's site are not designed to connect to intruder style bells, maybe adapt the circuit so the relay contact sinks a -ve via the alarm panel when coil is active? The other feature bells have is they self activate when the tamper is opened (hence the term Self Activating Bell). If you are going basic with the charging you could use a LM317T to set the voltage then use a 1 Watt resistor in series like you say. Issue being it will only keep the battery "a float" while the battery is charged. To charge a battery that has been drained you ideally need a constant current with a higher voltage than operational voltage; it would take forever or may not fully recharge otherwise.

Most alarms send a -ve back to the panel via a microswitch (hence the phrase "tamper return"). Either way IMO it would make sense for the field wiring to terminate to the PCB (for service and fitting reasons) even if you are just soldering a microswitch off the back.

I'd keep the spares for future. i agree with H either:- *the keypad is not mapped *the zones are the wrong zone type *the detectors have the wrong values set *the cable is damaged Time to get the meter out and check all the connections.

So no anti-tamper protection?

Would normally be a single -ve applied for the trig.

Possibly an SCB, from looking at the traces in the photos. Battery negative runs into the contact of the relay? Says Leyland on the buses but they don't all go there...

Yes, a 4047. I find a 555 much more flexible in a smaller package. You are right tho it's the right chip for a 50% duty cycle multivibrator. I was thinking of a 7.2V NiCd/NiMH like most alarm bells do. While it is listed as Li-ion charger circuit it would be suitable for other cells. Actually, I would say it's more suited to Ni cells.

You mean 555 timer? Coupled to a 4017 if you needed 3-10 scrolling LED's, like Night Rider effect. I ask because i would have used a 555 and CR network for and astable, it's such a useful IC to have in your parts bin. 10K, 10K, 47uF in the CR network is pretty close to 1Hz, handy values to have when your breadboarding stuff out. Sometimes it's fun to use what you have around.

I doubt a picture of an SAB module would be much help, most are painted and you wouldn't be able to work out the traces. I also wouldn't expect for the alarm you are making you need to go into that much depth either. This is a circuit with some basic components (including my favourite the 555) that you may want to look at for a charging circuit. http://www.edutek.ltd.uk/Binaries/Circuits/Li-ion_battery_charger.pdf The Op-Amp need 3V head minimum, so if your charging a 7.2V NiCd on a 12Vdc supply you will be fine to adjust the values to suit. I assume you used a CD4069 Hex Inverter chip for your flasher?

Replaced a few with Optex LX series in the past, if you need replacement.

NAT loopback is provided or can be enabled on some routers to allow a LAN address to access a server/port that is forwarded to your WAN. Some consumer end routers may have a firmware upgrade that will enable it, like some Netgears. Higher end stuff it may work OOTB or need to be setup or switched on manually. Basically avoid cheap ISP provided routers.

Should really be dual streams to stop this, so record at the best for the LAN setup on domestic that straight forward. Then other low quality stream for WAN connection so you don't use all the upstream bandwidth. There's a lot more than throwing it on the wall if you want it to work with no issues.

Sounds like it could be a lash in, even if the kit is any good? Looks like Hik copy/rebrand to me... 2MP-4MP is more than suitable for most domestic setups. Don't buy security on price, get quotes from several places and go with the one you are most comfortable with most likely not the cheapest.

Yes Normally 20mm QB

Do not switch the mains fuse off, you will only trigger the bell eventually when the hold off voltage drops. Battery will be unlikely to last any period of time. Get some replacement fuses of the correct size and replace them. You can then silence the system with your temporary repair. Any tampers would only trigger the system internally if the system its unset. Strobe may also flash until tamper is cleared.

What use is a keyholder in the south of France?

If a jobs worth doing...

Mini maglocks on the doors.

System can't show armed state to unauthorised users. Texe has a Foyer option for the communal stuff, put zones in Area A, switch Foyer on, done.

The wards on a TS are a bit weird if you have never used them before, but yes there is only ABC and Full 0. Texecom would be a straight controls swap (both EOL and DP) if you use them but you'd need a 168 to do that amount of Areas.

It's not like a Galaxy where you disable the tampers by leaving engineer message on the screen. "Engineer on site" would tell the user someone had entered the engineer menu as you needed the user to clear the message on the early ones. As Monty says you can leave it in View Circuits all day long. TS900 are pretty solid panels.

I have known customers to only respond to confirmed...

Plenty of muppets to go round but how about some skilled engineers?

If I understand the OP correctly it's probably not the best way to tackle the issue. The customer will already have keypads and will likely wish to use part set or other features. Also we are talking about a couple of isolated secure rooms potentially nowhere near the alarm controls. integrating that is a lot of work for less potentially less functionality. I don't know the Castle well but if anything going that route I would expect the other way of having the secure rooms controlled by the intruder would make more sense. If it where Texecom for example I would consider using door strike but it's depends what the customer needs, reporting logs etc.

Hi there have been many threads regarding this subject over in the trade side. http://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/topic/40034-forum-trade-application/