sixwheeledbeast

So does Zone 1 change state when you open and close the circuit?

All wireless has the potential of jamming. Two way intruder alarm equipment will have jamming detection so for example on Ricochet after a period of time the device will poll fail which if the alarm was armed would trigger the alarm. Ricochet is mesh but you may get the distance in one hop with it being open air. Alternatively they do external radio passives or use more contacts. With mesh the more devices the better. Proper tinned copper alarm cable would be fine for any normal powered device on a 100m run tho you should have PE stealth if outside, if it's just a reed switch type contact there would be no power anyway.

MDT are no longer. The panels model with matter regarding LED/LCD compatibility.

People put any old tat on ebay. It would be the only place to buy it, if you think about it that way. Bit like second hand Sterling keypads and iD biscuits for example...

As above the devices are on 24 hour alarm, you need to use the key to disable the alarm first.

Pretty sure Visonic ADT is not compatible with off the shelf Visonic.

Zone Type = Instant Zone Wiring = NO Partition = 1 Program your zones as above Remove ALL wiring from controls apart from Mains. Check they are all Secure. Use wire links between your Z and Zcom to check the zones go active when linked.

To give some actual advise... We do not give out defaulting or codes here for security reasons. The control panel is pretty old and I assume you have no record of it's service history? Most 4 zone Optima's in the wild are at the point were they have done there time. They are either unreliable, keypad worn out, black burn marks on the PCB and plastics and/or take over 3 weeks to charge a battery properly. The most sensible suggestion would be to swap the control panel and possibly sounder for something modern that comes with instructions you can read over a cuppa. If you are not confident in doing this maybe get someone to come and have a look and quote an upgrade.

Type "Null" if there is no zone type it's not active.

Sannce are one of the Chinese rebrands that have there root password in Mirai.

It would be pretty rare to have a duff panel, if your going to blow something you would likely only break one circuit. having all the circuits do the same makes me still think a programming option. As I said I know Texe stuff pretty well but we rarely see international series over here, so I couldn't point you to the exact programming option from if that is what the issue is. My advice for testing panels zones would be to remove ALL other wiring (to remove possibility of a ground loop) and only use short pieces of wire and/or resistors to test your circuits. I imagine you need to be in walk test/zone status or some other mode that would trigger if a zone where activated.

Well do they change state in any of the modes?

It won't be firmware. It's all down to zone configuration somewhere. Nobody will ship a panel that has firmware that mean the zones dont work. Even if that was possible it would have been found upon installation and sent back not left screwed to your wall.

There is a table in the wiring section to explain each wiring type and the state they should be. Single EOL S/C seems to be correct for your explanation.

Best to get hold of the landlord if your place is rented it's there responsibility. Either make sure they get it working and serviced regularly or make sure it's disabled and powered down correctly. Landlord may call it "disabled" if they only use it when there is no tenant but that doesn't help you in this situation you should have the code.

This is what happens to a system that is not serviced regularly. Switching the power back off will only make it worse as you will trigger the outside sounder. Companies do operate 24/7 however they may not respond without a contract in place. The settings icon is likely a fault spanner (scantronic)? You could try putting in the code slowly and firmly just incase the keypad is worn and a digit was missed.

I imagine Single EOL S/C is the type you want

May not be setup for resistors as default

99 to leave engineers? If so all zones and tamper is active

It appears the international series has allsorts of weird SEOL configurations look in the manual for wiring zones take note of the parallel "zone doubled" config you have to apply this to each circuit you wire this way. If you have moved zones around in the panel this will be setup incorrectly.

3K3 doesn't support multiple devices on one zone would need to be double pole or 4K7/2K2

It's around £60 for a 412 with keypad out there if that adds any context. Anyway feel we are sliding off topic, OP feels competent to DIY and is in the DIY section? If you do all the checks i listed above you will have an idea if it's the controls or not then you can proceed from there.

It's all relative tho H, the average salary in SA is around 15000ZAR if your lucky whereas it's more like 30000GBP in the UK. It's not just about the 18% exchange rate. From what I know security is more costly over there, I do agree it's all relative tho if you want the work done you pay the going price.

Looks like a Premier 412 Export. I can only suggest defaulting and programming again, there maybe something you have missed. You need to find out if it's the circuit or the panel is at fault and then from there if the panel detects the zones or if it's programmed incorrectly. If programming it may just be the circuit isn't in the correct area or something similar. We don't see the international series panels over here much so don't know the programming sequence in depth as a "normal" Prem. Also as above the two circuits will not operate correctly in parallel although you say the reed is bust on one so for now it should be ok for the one that works.

Maybe post some pictures of the panel, sounds like an old export model from what you have mentioned.