sixwheeledbeast

Short answer is yes. Bear in mind Mr H's helpful diagram doesn't include the JB tamper which would go in series, much like the red pair does. Something like a J81 or I prefer JB707 would be suitable for connections.

You get the delay upon arming that is when the system is checking the status of the devices, if you look at the keypad you will have a scrolling/waiting symbol. The panel will set the correct mode for every type of device upon learning, so you shouldn't really change it unless there is a special need to. Hybrid mode is for movement devices, when used the sensor is put to sleep on disarming so will always show what is was at that moment, until it's awoke by the panel normally at arming. You may have a signal issue so the status/waking of all the devices is not getting back to the panel before arming times out, I would imagine putting those devices to Auto would resolve. Personally I think I'd want to investigate further maybe relearn the devices or resite something if there is a signal issue, this is where Ricochet Monitor is very useful although not necessary.

12KW!? Clearly a typo. Ring Finals are horrible things, should have been deprecated years ago IMO. There allowance falls back on design caveats and our outlets, plugs and sockets, everything should have a 13A fuse maximum that is supplied from one from this design. When you consider that the cable used for RFC is underrated for the size of the MCB and only possible due to the loop, these fuses are important especially in a fault.

It's certainly not recommended, anything that is a high load appliance should have a dedicated radial circuit back to the CU. Pretty sure 2KW is mentioned as a limit, your new one is more like 3.6. I wouldn't even be keen on using a plug top type if the kitchen didn't have it's own RFC, you only need to have the oven and kettle on at the same time, which is common...

It's pointless really if it's even possible with Pyronix. Your decreasing the battery life greatly and there is no guarantee the message is getting to the panel unless you want all your sensors on chime or something... In commercial environments more recent systems will often have detection LED's disabled most of the time so unauthorised people can't see the detection activation area as PJ says. Best thing I can suggest for peace of mind is increase your short term maintenance, so monthly or even weekly walk tests; instead of annually.

They do need maintenance, if it's a cheap battery that could have failed and be causing you issues would usual check this annually. More likely it would be the keypad or the connections to it but normally when you loose connection it shows the keypad version number. Can't rule out a power surge either, most engineers would be checking the log then connections and voltages at this point.

They have no ankle support, some sites don't like riggers because they are loose round the ankle. If your not a site basher I don't see the issue in light work boots or trainer style. When your on domestics you want something you can slip off if you need plus I hate driving in boots.

How old is it and when was it last serviced?

Park the van in town, quick shirt swap you may get admitted to a club or two. You'd be nominated shin breaker if shit kicks off...

I'm not much of an app fan, plenty more on that in other recent threads, so take that with a pinch of salt I suppose. Veritas is very basic domestic system so any messaging would be like an addon dialler on outputs. No app or dialler type unit is guaranteed to get messages to you, there is no polling and lots of things in the chain. Although paid for services should mean someone is getting paid to make sure they have good uptime. Company that can provide monitoring is the top solution, you will get a message if there is a fault or activation, this would be separate from an app for control.

Risco may have a bad rep here but if your getting an installer in you should be evaluating the company and there services and let them worry about what kit manufacturer. That being said I'd keep the Veritas over a Lightsys...

I see so password only for FDE and you'll leave them on, wasn't aware that was an option for Win was thinking of BitLocker. I use LUKS for all data storage but not WIndows systems so unlikely helpful.

Do you have much sensitive data on individual machines? As al says it's about the layers, smartcard would be to use the machine/terminal as a login password replacement but sensitive data wouldn't be stored on that machine you'd have it on a server protected by something else. All you need is the machine and the card and you have the FDE broken, whereas your unlikely to have physical access to server, machine and card at the same time. I don't know how much more secure a smartcard would be to magstripe, I suppose they both could be copied. You could argue if you swipe and keep the card on you, your less likely to have someone leave an access card in the dock? You could make the machine lock with inactivity but would be pointless if you left the card so will always be down to the user to some degree.

Don't use Windows but Yubikey login must be a thing? Which wouldn't be possible to clone at all with just the key. If webcam they have Windows hello built in, not that I am found of that. Smartcards systems I have seen where separate USB reader and printable HID cards, not sure if that's same as NHS?

Consuming media is a bit different tho. Entertainment will be consumed by however the watcher can get it conveniently for them. I would consider this like computing a "tool" not entertainment. I am not saying your that way PJ but you'd be surprised how much time people waste on their phones fecking about with things that don't matter or can wait. It's still a remote control (and trying to bring it back OT) is that really a priority when your shopping for an alarm, I would say detection and reliability is more important.

Agreed on monthly or at least some PAYG plan where you can access online if you go that way. Bear in mind they cut sims off if you don't make outbound services regular.

Ebay is a good way to get rid of junk so caution is advised. System is basic so doesn't have any options for IP addons. If your keeping the system then you can only go for universal off the outputs/bell trig type devices. You could try some sort of ATA but your reliant on compatibility and good uptime for all the kit the message goes through. At least a GSM dialler would be powered from the system so only have to think about signal and phone costs then. Polled signalling is most secure but out of the realms for DIY.

Spending a lot less time worrying about what's on a 5 inch screen that's always under your nose.... My point still stands IMO. It's just a fancy remote control it's still very far from the ubiquitous computing concept of ambient intelligence that would actually be useful to people day to day.

Manufacturer recommendations are always different depending on the installer. Every place has their preferred kit with having the experience of fitting that multiple times for different jobs, which is irrelevant for you. Any decent hybrid panel will have all the functionality you require. Texecom, Galaxy, Eaton etc etc. HKC is restricted so probably not an option. Some have all the features onboard, some are more modular like the Texecom where you add modules for functionality. Traditional phone lines will be dead in the next decade like JW says so consider this as well.

I still don't find any of these apps or "smart" features - smart. Your just tied into manufactured obsolescence and compatibility woes as you say. They may have their very limited applications for some jobs but it's just a daft requirement in the current age that people want all there electronic tat to have an app, if there is a point or not.

Apps are all junk to some degree anyway...

Limiting your options if you want app with no subscription and auto update firmware, I'd start researching manufacturers from there.

I'd generally try to keep as far as possible away normally trying to keep minimum of a foot or so like JW says. BS7671 is 50mm minimum between LV and ELV, unless in it's own metallic containment. More of concern is alarm cabling being outside of the alarms protected area which is generally avoided, if you have to for a single run you need to think about protection from cable tampering.

It's not my preferred kit but PowerMaster is at least full two way unlike the now discontinued PowerMax junk. I have only ever worked on the older models 30/10 etc. As long as it's not an ADT one, should be fine if you keep it maintained. You may want to look into the app and if the previous owners have access to it etc.

The noise is made by power from somewhere when you have no mains. Would expect one battery inside and one outside in the bell.