PeterJames

You can but its not recommended Price for what your getting sounds a little expensive, but there are a few unknowns like parking and any other misc charges.

Its hard to give a price without seeing the property and whats involved, did they give you a proper specification detailing what and where items will be installed. Its not unusual for companies not to do the fused spur as officially you have to certify them. (From your original post I forgot to add it to my first reply) The panel does let you know when the batteries are low. Al-yeti and I both cover South London, Al-yeti may be your better bet though as we are quite busy. Neither of us sell Texecom though, only HKC.

Banham will be rebranded Pyronix. If they are all similar price to Banham then they are all dearer than average. Banham tend to be on the expensive side. Thats not to say thats a bad thing, as you should not be looking for the cheapest Out of Texecom and Pyronix Id probably choose Texecom. Wireless kit is far more reliable than it was 10 years ago, I would always recommend hard wired over wireless but I am old school. Batteries can last up to 3 years we tend to replace them yearly though because its cheaper than calling us out between services, and that has happened a few times for us, we are happy to leave them for two years but insist the customer signs to say they understand the consequences. Servicing is probably the most important bit to alarms, these things go wrong and when they do they are a nuisance. Having a service contract isnt just about having a service visit either, think of it as being a bit like having AA or RAC for your alarm. A service contract means someone is available 24/7 365 days which I am sure you can imagine is quite an expensive service to provide.

Hi this is a UK based forum and products in this country are made specifically to the UK rules and regulations for the UK. The rules in other countries are quite different to UK therefore anything we suggest thats not DIY will either be unavailable where you are or not compatible with Canada equipment. All of us here wouldnt recommend anything specifically sold as DIY as we are all professionals here. Take a look at the DSC panels this is Canadian pro brand that used to be sold in the UK. Please dont post links in your posts thanks

Ask your boss if you can take stuff home to wire up and play with, if he is a good boss he should be impressed.(If he isnt he isnt a good boss) I learned loads at home on with old panels that I had removed to update, as well as new panels that I was installing. There is nothing like it for gaining confidence in how to program panels and how to wire them etc. Make sure you have the engineers manual for any old panels that you take home, as the programming is not the same as the ones you currently install. Well done for finding here and asking, many young lads/lass's wont have the initiative to do that, you are obviously keen, stick around we will help where we can.

Ive often thought about that when fitting boxes to old buildings. The ticket office for West Pier got me thinking, the building was 150 years old so it got me wondering how long my bell box would be there for. Sadly the foockers knocked the building down so they could put up the very unsuccessful i360.

Chinese product, the Chinese tend to only make stuff if they can sell a lot of them. If they cant sell them they stop making them. Nowadays most cameras go via Wifi to a smartphone hence why sales slowed and they eventually stopped making them, the WiFi ones are available and cheap though https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005010041998667.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller.2.1b2aUCaNUCaNkt&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=3c70f2ac-93e8-4464-a3c5-0eef5af9e28d&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:3c70f2ac-93e8-4464-a3c5-0eef5af9e28d,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238115%232000&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"162"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"sceneId"%3A"30050"%2C"fromPage"%3A"recommend"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!GBP!3.08!3.08!!!28.58!28.58!%402103919917609541928144809ea156!12000050922449320!rec!UK!1686170910!XZ!1!0!n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A2a4f45d5%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005010041998667|_p_origin_prod%3A

Your welcome. Just bear in mind you are living on borrowed time with that panel, and alarms do have a habit of going wrong just at the wrong time, like just when you are about to go on holiday. When you are relying on something to protect your property, its important that it is reliable. You probably dont have a 40 year old boiler or a 40 year old fridge, or TV, did you bring yourself to change those?

qfa

Theres a blast from the past, it must be about 40 years old. Good luck with that panel you would be better off replacing it with something a bit newer, it wasn't that easy to work on when it was new. Sorry we are unable to supply engineering manuals here.

You must have some lovely clients

Ive seen those tiny midge thingies in sealed optics before

Extra current drawn when all three are sounding ?

The answer is yes anything is possible, you would need an additional power supply and battery. But the question is why would you want to? Bells go wrong and when they do theyre a nuisance, Id much rather have a system with no bell and decent coms, certainly not three.

My first thought

You should only connect one sensor per zone unless they are none powered devices such as door contacts panic buttons etc. If you connect two sensors to one zone and have a false alarm it becomes difficult to tell which detector activated. Its less so with non powered devices as they normally either work or dont work. If you have a false alarm from a non powered device you can and it still works you can normally tell which one is failing by its resistance. Using EOL doubles the devices lowers the amount of cores needed, it also means that the panel can tell you high resistance tamper faults when there are problems with the cable. It can be fiddly fitting EOL resistors in the detectors (some come with EOL's onboard and you just use the dipswitch's for the right values) Most detectors have a 15 metre range if you have rooms bigger than this and want to use two motion detectors in the same room, try to make sure the coverage does not overlap. If overlapping coverage is unavoidable then use two different protocols such as a PIR and a Dual Tech. This is a requirement for monitored systems but it is also good practice for all systems. After a false alarm people tend to look at the log and see the last thing that activated and not get the full story from the log, it just means that they end up with several false alarms before the cause is found. Its great you son is involved in this, one of my NSI inspectors was on the Autistic spectrum, a bit of a strange character, but very very thorough and if something wasnt right he would find it.

What about current draw? As Happy mentions are the devices (inc bells) connected wireless

how many psu's?

How many devices attached?

Its unlikely to be the power to the house failing as the customer would notice clocks not working etc. Could be an induced problem on the data line check for AC noise set meter to ac put one lead on earth the other on 12vdc anything over 5v is a problem. Do you have any psu's? Are they commoned up properly ? Whats the current draw? Was this a panel upgrade from an old Galaxy or something? The switch mode PSU's are not as forgiving as the older transformer style if your drawing too much the panel will do this. Not sure if the Pyronix uses resettable fuses but if your getting intermittent shorts on the 12vdc Aux this could cause the PSU to overload before the Aux fuse and then it all resets You could try the panel on a temporary flying mains lead and plug it in to the nearest 3 pin plug socket. When you changed the panel did you change the RKP? If none of the above fix it wire rkp directly to panel on a short lead. If still a problem, Ive heard good things about Orisec

I'd start at the external and internal Sounders in that order, Once you have removed those then you can down power and remove the rest

From what Ive seen of similar recorders that we have ripped out they seem to run on 2Amp or above, the recorder will probably work on either to be fair. Pro recorders will normally have bigger, cameras will draw 500mA quiescent and 1Amp peak a bit more if they are IR or have lights

Looks a bit like an arun elite, chub used to use Racall Guardall for all their stuff so maybe its a Windsor in disguise

I dont know, if they were checking for valid emails im not sure if what they are doing would work. They wouldnt get the bounce back the site submitting the ticket would. Its not the sites submitting the ticket either I got one from Southern Water the other day and the ticket email add seems legit. I am actually having work done with Southern water so I could compare the address and the stupid terminology they use (I think they assume everyone they speak to is a plumber) It could be some sort of dos thing but not very effective.

Like probably most of you I have a few email addresses. just recently (the last six months) Ive noticed Im getting a lot of tickets open messages from random places in my old address. apart from it being a bit irritating they didnt bother me I just ignored them. Now Im getting them on my main email address, not hundreds but 5 or 6 a week. Obviously they have been raised by a bot of some description and they must be doing something some sort of phishing. I cant work out what info they hope to gain and Im not sure if tere is anything I can do to prevent them. Is anyone eles getting them? Example