PeterJames

The problem as I see it lots of people think this industry is easier than it is, the chap that came today couldnt even wire a 3 pin plug but thought he could become an alarm engineer, it would take a lot lot longer with him than a person with some basic knowledge, as you have teach the basics first. On the other side of the coin engineers think its much harder than it is. They seem to think that it takes years of experience to do their job. Yet many competent diyers can install a half decent system (not as good as a pro but a working system). I reckon that it is possible to teach someone with a tech background to do this job in 3 or four months. Yes experience makes you better at what you do, especially so with breakdowns, but the minimum requirements is all thats required for servicing and to go on call.

We had an engineer hand his notice in, I found a replacement, but he seems very needy before signing up, £5k more than he is being paid at the moment, van with aircon, halo ladders, he wants to see a copy of the contract. I put out an advert and got only potential trainees applying. My newest IQ test is to give people a 3 pin plug to wire, I discovered that some of these people are a danger to themselves wiring earth into the live (surely a fuse gives a clue). I sometimes envy the smaller co's I need 6 engineers because of the callout. I can use subbies for install work but not to cover callout. If it were not for that Id only use subbies life would be so much simpler.

When you say you have lost your code do you mean you had a code that worked but now it doesnt or do you mean you dont know what code is in the alarm? Just so you know we cannot give out defaulting information here for legal reasons. I have deleted the links in your post, please familiarise yourself with the site guidelines https://www.thesecurityinstaller.co.uk/community/guidelines/

Nearly all panels are user friendly, nearly everyone here will have their favorite I dont user Texe or Pyronix but they are popular panels

Its a two year old thread I doubt that he will reply. In answer to your question. In most cases hard wired detectors are compatible with any brand of panel, you will most likely have to change end of line resistors along with the panel.

I suppose it makes a change from the gay jokes

I cant believe I missed that I went back and re read it as well just to be sure

Theres 1000 mA to an amp not 100 550mA would be half an amp (well over half an amp)

He said 55mA not 550mA

Its unlikely anyone here would know it was a primarily DIY product, my best guess would be to change the wireless codes, very early wireless stuff allowed you to set codes so that it did not interfere with neighbours alarms and vica versa

No easy way to unlock it unfortunately the panel is over 15 years old and obsolete, its likely to have unreadable keypad pretty soon its a common problem with old Gardtech's

It has to connect to the cloud first though. When its first powered up it doesnt know what day of the week it is let alone the right time. A bit like you when your alarm clock goes off on a Thursday morning after youve been down the pub the night before for pool night

Red light= normally a fuse blown, or no battery connected. Disconnect everything at the PSU if it still shows red then you know its not any of the wiring causing the PSU issue. Check the backup battery. Im guessing from the state of thos connections its not been under a service agreement so the battery is probably over 5 years old and may be pulling the psu down

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

Word of warning with shear locks alignment is critical any play on the door forget it, use lock tight on the screws unless you want to keep going back and adjusting it, lastly pay close attention to the instructions, they come with different springs for a reason. Surface mounted shearlocks need the right springs, (see above) but generally wont need high level carpentry skills, mortice is a different story altogether. Personally Id sub fitting a mortice shearlock to a locksmith they will do a neater job of fitting it and getting it spot on, just put the wires in the holes is my advice especially as you have never done one before. https://www.aldridgesecurity.co.uk/adams-0003-adams-rite-1354-0100-mortice-shear-magnet.html Thats where our locksmith gets his

just snip them individually that way you will know what colour goes where when you put it back/replace it. No need to down power completely just be aware the alarm will tamper

It puts more load on the psu it pulls more current than the psu is designed to provide, and eventually burns out the charging circuit

Im glad you didnt call it tape of colour

You could maybe fit a morticed shear mag, or a shoot bolt. But I would probably go with Steves idea and fit an external mag on the outside and use star screws or anti tamper screw heads to prevent someone unscrewing it or a architectural mag https://www.cdvi.co.uk/products/categories/magnetic-architectural-handles/

did you look in this box?

19vac normally

Its likely one of the diodes has blown, sometimes you can tell which one because the diode splits or looks wet, other than that you would have to desolder each one and measure it. Also look closely at the board both sides you may have burnt a track. Burning smell is another big give away that something has blown

Reversing the polarity may have damaged it, it probably at least discharged the battery. Down power completely for 5 mins then power it back up. Or down power it leave it to charge for a while then power it up