al-yeti

How do you know it didn't dry off on the PCB , was enough to short it , I have seen it on these bells before because of how cable is taken in and where rain has hit got behind it Maybe yours survived but symptoms were similar and you confirm now water got in PS if it's quiet you could disconnect them, make terminal on them, and you will here oscillation when activated

Water ingress , show us picture of exactly how it's mounted and picture of wiring please

Yes Uno Luno , now stop taking up bandwidth

More or less yes that's the way it is, although I don't know risco , they may oray not let the user add and remove fobs Example hkc panels adds them as a device which only the engineer has access to or anyone with engineer code Honeywell (might get shot here) allows master code users to add fobs Risco? Don't know But either way if you lose it , you can get it deactivated and new one added With some method

I off my rocker your paying for that wall remember

Here's the simple answer which you didn't accept , as that would been the end of that, hence what continued perhaps Here's another great reply , but in English it says it's easy to get these over the web, plus you still have a code as fail safe What more do you want It is in English dd but he needs help

Change the battery anyway

Why don't you do basic electronics course first? It will teach you this stuff Then house bash dot com

You gprs works out there ?

Open tap is expensive , I wouldn't want every signal being sent

Yes this does occur with other diallers and many handsets and then it suddenly starts working on next call

Wireless or wired

Yes there rf range is very poor with to many objects in the way if you get me

Engineer mode won't help you with short circuits , and as above you can do serial as said with last one being terminated , and also do star config You will have ti make sure you address everything carefully , big house ? To rf portals?

As above , but you can star it no problem and put a resistor on at "each" end of line If you blew a fuse you must have shorted something not because of an overload , the connections on the g2 can be tricky for some ,xso look carefully when your doing it and power down if possible , your bell may go nuts while doing it of course

None of them are straight forward , if your sticking to wired then galaxy may work for you , is it a commercial? Have you looked at texecom? Euro mini?

Young reader want to convert it to emp

Nah , for commercial maybe, but residential other panels are moving ahead , honeywell should sell up and end up like Eaton bosch who also don't do jack to develop there products

Yes take cover off , hope it's not engineer reset or something crazy

All down to risk assessment then?

So your back to square one, first determine if they work independently Then it can only be a cable fault or wiring problem Maybe you are connected something wrong and didn't notice , as a house bashers I do it often , still good to fry the stuff now and then

Ok so your saying individually they both work fine, flash strobe trigger bell all ok? , if that's the case then it's wiring or cable fault Not sure if these have a resistor to be used ? Is it fed from front to rear or rear to front , replace cable through loft if that's the shorter one , Are you using 8core or struggling with 6 and no other spares

Can you wire up the bell that isn't working in its own, if so does it work?

Because it normally starts positive and by the end of a tsi thread it's negative , kind of adds up this

What equipment is it? Components work fine in very warm areas , probably more prone to failure in a loft where temp changes more often , but depends on build quality Of course this could all be blag