Specialist

Totally agree with you mate you would expect the cable to be Dead in those circumstances. To be honest it came as a bit of a shock how complacent they've become over Electrical safety and to be honest safety in general, especially as I've drummed it into them so often. Hopefully this will be the wake up call needed.

Not alarms true but can happen anywhere. Some friends of mine build and install motorised Security gates. They were on a job yesterday where the supply cable for their gates were installed by a local "Electrician" but had to be moved as it was on the wrong side of the gate, they were told that it was connected to the garage fusebox and isolated. Where the cable came out of the ground there was about 500mm sticking up with bare ends. So they drill a hole through the concrete post and without bothering to check that the cable was dead (They have the kit to do so and have been taught how to use it), they go to feed it through the post. One almighty bang & a load of sparks later, they discover that the cable was already connected to a 16a breaker in the garage consumer unit & this was turned on. Now the Electrician was in the wrong for leaving the cable live and the ends sticking sticking out bare, but the gate fitters complacency over safety could have got one of them killed. Always check & double check that a mains cable is dead before touching it people, if your in any doubt then call a Decent Electrician.

Agreed, virtually impossible at times.

Come on al: You don't believe in Witches, Wizards and Goblins so why would you have believed that ?.

Put me down for a Taser & can of CS spray

Your welcome, glad we could help. If you've any other questions about the system, please ask & we'll do our best to help.

Hi: It's showing that while you were away, your system went into alarm for some reason. Could be due to the power flashing on and off at some point. To reset, enter your user code then X twice. Should now hopefully be back in day mode. Directions for this and viewing the event log are in your user manual.

Question has been raised several times but still not answered. I sure wouldn't want my fire safety to be reliant on cheap tat detectors.

Why are you disconnecting the original smokes ?. Really makes no sense, are they causing problems or have some failed ?. You really are downgrading your fire protection by a huge amount. Hope for your sake you don't have a fire. You can actually buy a half decent spec smoke detector that's compatible with most alarms for less than £15.00 each.

Yep I noticed, just thought you'd maybe made a mistake .

£200 an hour is cheap ? . I seriously need to change areas, down here they bitch at £45.00 callouts.

Probably cheap £4.99 battery only detectors, he's already said that he's on a tight budget so they sure won't be Mains / Battery & seriously doubtful that they'll be linked.

Removing the existing smokes from the alarm in favour of stand-alone, battery operated detectors is a backwards step. The existing detection is designed to warn not only the occupants of the house that there's a fire but also neighbours etc via the external sounder, so hopefully they can call the fire brigade. I'd imagine a system that size would be monitored by an ARC as well, so yet another way of calling the brigade whether your home or away. Stand-alone detectors will inform you of a fire if your there but if a fire breaks out when your not there, no one will know. If the system is under a maintenance contract, you'll no doubt invalidate that by tampering with the system.

Altered, should have read cladding not ladding.

Ok so that gives you another problem, the liability for any damages you cause to the new ladding. Another way of controlling the light would be to use a timer or Photocell sensor. The timer inside your flat or the Photocell externally at whatever height you need. A photocell would set you back the princely sum of £8 to £10, minimal wiring and easy to install.

If the landlord has control of the existing lighting and it works, the simplest upgrade would be to remove the existing lights and fit a Unistrut arm to each pole. 2 decent LED floods on each arm & angled accordingly should give plenty of lighting with no need for PIR's.

Al: The picture is there on Google maps mate.

It would be a lot better to install the equipment on the outer wall of the stairwell at 2 - 3m height, PIR should then have no problems working and your 200watt flood will actually be able to give a reasonable amount of illumination. Personally, as others have said. I don't think a PIR at 10m vertical height is going to work. And your flood is more than likely going to look like a Glow worm. Who does the existing carpark lighting belong to ?.

The Voltek 1804 External PIR has a detection range of 18m & the 1804 LR 40m, you would also need a Voltek lighting controller to go with it. That's always supposing your country of installation runs on 240v. But as has already been said, most countries have Electrical codes (Regulations) you need to abide by. The other residents in the block of flats also need to be considered.

What supply voltage does this "Country" operate on ?

Ain't that the truth, doesn't pay to have pre conceived ideas of a problem. It often catches you out.