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    Essex UK
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    Retro computing, Xbox DIY ( although getting more difficult with age )


  • Location
    Essex uk

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Reddwarf4ever's Achievements


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  1. Don’t think I am being ungrateful, but I had already cut the channel for the cable, having decided this was the best route, all I really wanted to know was the likelihood of mains interference causing spurious alarms, as the alarm cable is shielded. Wasn’t really looking for different ways to route the cable......thanks
  2. The coving isn’t continuous, that’s the first idea I had, the installer used gripfill at intervals to stick it, so can’t do that.....a neat chisel along the wall should suffice, just hoped that interference wouldn’t be a problem
  3. Not possible I am afraid, the alarm cable ,is 6 core Think only two,used for the PIR and it is the highest quality I could get so screening should be good.......suppose it’s fingers crossed than
  4. Hello i am burying a PIR cable along the top of the wall, but there are cables from the light switch, will it be ok to run these close ?dont have any option really, but wonder if it could cause false alarms, there won’t be any power flowing at night or when out...but will obviously be live. thanks
  5. Had to remove an old sounder, but several wires had been routed through the box, one wire was accidentally cut during the removal and the keypad next to it went blank and the alarm sounded.....put it into engineer mode & had the wire repaired....however now when trying to set the alarm it says CONFIRM DEVICES can I clear this using engineer mode ? many thanks
  6. Hi

    i am sure in one of your posts you said you are the main installer for 3 types of alarm, can’t find the post now, which 3 were they ?



    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Specialist


      Forgot to mention: ADE are actually a Honeywell brand.

    3. Reddwarf4ever


      What do you think of an EURO 46 V10 ?


      has 10 zones, which I can manage ( have 11 but will remove 1 )

      has sms on trigger and app, but are these 2 built in or require extra module ?




      my original alarm installer only uses Pyronix now ....waiting a quote

      had alarm installer

      A quote over £1000

      B still waiting a quote, been several weeks, last phone call said quite should be ready for typing, that was a few days ago, don’t understand, if he doesn’t want to do the work why doesn’t he just say so, I sent emails sms wattasapps....says he got them all but never replied......??


      emailed 2 electricians from trusted traders and No Replies...


      will phone them Monday and see why no email replies !





    4. Specialist


      Have PM'd you a reply.


  7. Thanks obviously you won’t be able to help me and the reply was a little terse.... but I will find a solution
  8. Hi am in SS8 postcode, is that in your area ? What would you charge ( ball park ) to do what I need ? thanks
  9. Hopefully someone could give me an idea of price for Essex, for what I need......
  10. Isn't the Pyronix euro mini@ wireless system ..? Need a wired system ....... assuming the Pyronix euro mini is a wired system, what should I expect to pay to fit the panel 2 keypads and 2 bellboxes to an existing wired system using existing PIRs and contacts thanks
  11. Well waited over a week for the estimates and one finally materialised .......comes in at over £1000 this is to install a new control panel two keypads and two bell boxes......all wiring in place and re-using existing 8 PIRs and 3 contacts. this is too expensive for me......been told it’s for an Eaton, Scantronic ION system had a quick look and it seems this is a bit OTT for me, especially as trying to do on a budget. 40 Zones ??? i know I have 11 at the moment, but can reduce PIRs to get Down to 5 PIRs and 3 contacts, so an 8 Zone would be suitable. I know I have been told before I can’t chose the alarm system I want, as the installer will have a preference, but the Installer isn’t paying for it I am.....I would not like it if a car salesman could insist on what car I buy, or isn’t this a fair analogy ? so taking aside the installers preference, what’s my best choice to replace the Gardtec 840 wired system, replacing only the control panel 2 keypads and 2 bell boxes ? I would like to be able to configure / tweak the program, at some future time if I needed to. But don’t really need colour LCD etc.....Do I ? need some help please.......I could still go for just paying to remove the smokes, approx £100 I am told, but the alarm exit keypad occasionally displays “system in use” unless I wait 5 seconds after entering the exit code and pressing Exit now.....hasn’t happened once seen I adopted this method, BUT the control panel has a frigged PSU as the original failed......so all is not happy currently.........need to make a decision.....
  12. Hello removing teh smoke alarms in the program didn’t work well.....the wiring removal at the panel involves resistors , so,out of my comfort zone. so I have put my hands up and waiting two estimates, may go for justbthis or an upgrade depending on the quote . i do a lot of DIY myself, but this has defeated me.....thanks for all the help and advice..
  13. If it is the contaur 6 keypad, what year do you guess at ? i had an upgrade in 2003, don’t remember the keypads being changed, but who knows.....my memory doesn’t LOL if it had ACE would I then have a Fob ? Which I don’t have..... found the engineer contact remove procedure....... Enter engineer codePress yesProg zone yesProg zone type yesEnter zone number which is to be turned offPress noYesYesPress no until it says offPressYesPress 0/esc until you come out of engineer mode. Just need a way to identify the smoke connections in the control panel, I know the zone numbers, but don’t know if the zones are numbered in the control panel, or maybe there are special connections just for smokes.....now I can remove the zones in the program, just need to remove the cabling at the control panel any help please ?
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