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Showing content with the highest reputation since 29/03/23 in all areas

  1. Wait until you try prising the sounder apart on a ladder....
    3 points
  2. get your property to finished surfaces - oh, I think I have a burglar alarm....
    2 points
  3. If you do get a supply of them... unlikely to get a large quantity from a wholesaler if they even have them listed; I would suggest to replace as part of any maintenance. The transparent wiring cover will easily flick out at the hinge with correct application of a flat screwdriver, so you could have covers ready to go with spare wiring covers (buy a few dummies). I know it's not the point but you could consider getting some adhesive 12v LED tape instead, most thinner stuff can be cut at 8-10cm sections make them up ready to go. It's less hassle to go forward using the same box if you want, but not offering or connecting the illumination. As I say I don't offer illuminated sounders every now and then a new customer enquires about them, I ask if they have or have applied for planning permission to have one and then explain the details of this. If the customer even wanted to put the effort in to apply, your unlikely to get it granted in a domestic situation. No neighbour wants to look at your light up advert looking across the road in the evening... more importantly, I don't feel they should have to either.
    2 points
  4. Isn't the iwise bus a bus detector that will only work on a risco panel? You have also probably blown the fuse or panel. Wires shouldn't 'touch'
    2 points
  5. Tat alarms & naff doorbells is what the public want...
    2 points
  6. 2 points
  7. Just consider permanently illuminated external sounders require planning permission, if the decal space is used. I would disable anyway. Make sure the controls are in full working order, charging rates, voltages etc; before only replacing the siren.
    2 points
  8. Sounds like someone else over specced and it ended up in your van...
    2 points
  9. AIUI in that situation it's still all the same rules and repayments but HMRC no longer have access to your tax code or income, so you have to provide evidence. If you disappear your rate is charged the maximum monthly amount and you are charged interest on late payments.
    2 points
  10. Yeah sorry about that it's been on/off so many times
    1 point
  11. that is assuming all sites have a common engineer code.
    1 point
  12. The corcern is the installer is liable if your system fails to perform. I understand their position and they are correct. Don't know orisec and not sure it can be locked. I would. However if your out of support with your maintainer they should default the panel (at a cost if visit required). No your not locked into them assuming you own the hardware. But the programming may be theirs. A default protects everyone so that's the way to go
    1 point
  13. this is the windows one which is part of the full tablet app that runs the engineers fault finding tracking etc
    1 point
  14. Not totally, remember the insurance companies lost a lot of money through covid and with weather events too.
    1 point
  15. Cut and past the same stuff twice. Infra red is the detection method not what the detector is looking for, infra red detector detects heat or infra red radiation. Its unlikely that anyone can cover themselves up enough not to give off any heat at all . The ambient temp of the room versus the temp of the person. Even if the person was wearing a foil suit and giving off no heat (unlikely) he would be interrupting heat sources in the room. I would be looking a bit closer, what happens when you set the alarm and then walk in front of detectors? Nothing of what you have said makes any sense its almost as if your making excuses for the poor performance of your design
    1 point
  16. Going back to the original point if it hkc signalling and as you claim hkc servers were down the panel would of retried. I've tested loss of comms etc and it does go through on WiFi reconnection. If your talking about detector sensitivity you now think it's a detector issue. I personally use hkc at home as well as work etc I've never had a failure to detect, failure to alarm or failure to report. Probably need to add a lot more info else it looks like your blaming kit with no evidence of it being at fault. Arc logs would be a good start then panel logs. Nothing identifiable. Comms type etc etc. As it is i can only summise that detector areas were not used. For all detectors to not detect then it wasn't armed
    1 point
  17. Never heard of brooks before internet, thorn was finishing off as I was getting going... IIRC
    1 point
  18. I also read on ha forums and see in YouTube things like the best camera review. They rarely are
    1 point
  19. Looks like the chequebook lads thanks for all your replies.
    1 point
  20. Waste of time , seriously, those recorders you can't even give away now, even swann has overtaken it So you will be like trying to fit ip 720p or something like that
    1 point
  21. the internet says its does upto D1 / 960H ?
    1 point
  22. It will only record in analogue resolutions even if converted, not recommended. Some machines are "hybrid" so you map IP's to the channels, this usually requires PoE elsewhere and detecting cams from the WAN. Just replace the lot with new Samsung. Seems a shame to get rid of a decent DVR but if 960H isn't good enough now (new cams?), you need to start again.
    1 point
  23. I have fitted a few systems with HA integration of varying degrees. Most of the time if they had no HA the alarm could to what they wanted anyway.
    1 point
  24. Isn't there some rule about swearing at people on this forum?
    1 point
  25. The gt40 has Ethernet (RJ 45 onboard) and it also has GPRS for IP traffic with appropriate data SIM and GSM for SMS. The gt20 has Ethernet only. The modules were a collaboration between Chiron and Honeywell. I have a GT40 on the shelf for development purposes. I wouldn't advise buying one as they're not great. A better option is the IP module - either Selfmon vmod or Honeywell V4.16 module and buy a cheap 4G router to provide a backup IP path in the event broadband goes down. In fact, unbreakable broadband and a UPS on the router is a good option.
    1 point
  26. There are planning permission issues for installers fitting illuminated boxes on most sites anyway. I wouldn't ever fit them, in fact I have removed a good few of the LED strips from these Ody X's over the years. Given some more time now from the OP I'd say 25% that I removed have eventually become flaky or failed. Pretty simple to remove, it's a clever design having it modular like that; although I suspect they may have been running a bit hot. Have seen two different LED types one better than the other. The modules that do continue to work, nicely modify into decent camping lights...
    1 point
  27. Eol resistors are for End Of Line use they shouldn't be in the panel expander etc. If the flex supports seol then you would out this at the end. I haven't looked in detail at the existing wiring
    1 point
  28. I appreciate the professional installers on this forum, and I understand that my situation may seem less than ideal. I want to assure you that I am doing everything I can to improve the current circumstances. This situation is not intentional, and if there were a straightforward solution, I would have implemented it already. However, there are some challenges that will require time and effort to address. Your advice and guidance are valuable to me, and I truly appreciate your support. Thanks, Mark
    1 point
  29. dunno, TBH I couldn't give a Castlemaine 4x
    1 point
  30. DEOL (Double End of Line), will never work correctly without the shunt resistor across the zone in the device. You will also not find a panel that supports much more than 3 devices via DEOL. Your current system is SEOL which you could get away with that.
    1 point
  31. You will need 2 resistors if this is a galaxy on deol
    1 point
  32. Thanks for the welcome messages guys... I've managed to track down a suitable course. Booked in next month ? Will update this thread with my experience and looking forward to getting my first install ?
    1 point
  33. Holiday let in spain or similar ?? You be better off with an enforcer than than the stuff your googling for Shocks, Dt801's & flood sensors... Treat yourself to a big tube-
    1 point
  34. Also considering millennials are the majority generation your going to do well to right them off...
    1 point
  35. Do you like cigars & chunky jewellery ?
    1 point
  36. Your engineer code is different from what your trying
    1 point
  37. As above the panel is really old I'd check it's OK before bolting bits on
    1 point
  38. If I had the £ I'd like a one of these- https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204373271215?hash=item2f9598a2af:g:mUkAAOSwsLxkkfaP but in yellow ? this is interesting not my thing - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204373293808?hash=item2f9598faf0:g:fyYAAOSwqIFkkf5r looking at the other items the seller appears to be alarm trade, the only thing fast & Italian I've owned was a Scudo Van !
    1 point
  39. There are people out there that swear by Risco, but I cant help feeling thats because its cheap, and many installers wont touch it. Its not the easiest to work on and its not got the best reliability reputation. We would not take one over either, but there are people that will just make sure that they install them rather than just want to take it over for the sake of it.
    1 point
  40. This is an old AFA setup; possibly pre AFA Minerva days. AFA & Minerva merged together in 1969; but equipment remained to be installed with "AFA Burglar Alarm" and "AFA Security Systems" for quite a while after. With the involvement of EMI - the company name was officially changed during early 1973 to "AFA-Minerva - EMI". The installation pictured is a single circuit "G Type", the small box beloew the relay box has a red lamp on the top, beneath that a black knob (Circuit switch) and beneath that a barrel keyswitch. The red lamp warns you that a circuit is open, so don't turn the key! If the lamp was out when setting, it was safe to turn the keyswitch, setting the latch and bell circuit. Behind the panel, when the key was turned to "Arm", a metal bar rotated to wedge the above circuit switch - to prevent it from being switched off. The relay box above are the control relays - in most normal installations; this box was an AFA drum bell box (usually Black, or Blue). Relay on the LH side (above) is the Bells and Outputs relay, Centre Relay is the latch relay (in other versions of this box, this is a sealed Dublo relay) and far RH side relay is a low current relay - the circuit relay, energised by the end of circuit batteries. (3 flag cells). AFA did a multicircuit version of this - also available in Blue or Black; which could handle up to 10 circuits, and included a circuit test and panel meter. These boxes were often modifications to existing systems; where the drum would be removed; this box fitted and luxuries such as 24 hour Tamper and Panic circuits would be added, as well as a Lead Acid Battery and charger. There were still many of these installs in operation when I was at Thorn. We had loads on our books - and if looked after, were quite reliable. I removed one of the last ones in the midlands that was linked directly to a local police station. Not that it's any use to anyone, terminations - the first 12 are a drop down to the panel - wired in 12core. AFA-Minerva continued to make a Single G-Type and a Multi Circuit G-type (this could handle around 15 circuits and was the size of a large suitcase) until around 1976/77 - though still used Flag Cells - they also included electronics here and there as relay drivers in a bid to keep current consumption down.
    1 point
  41. Cool analogy Im gonna use that. Only this morning I was trying to convince a customer exactly this. An old system is kept serviced is fine, all the while the customer doesnt need to make any changes. In my instance he had to change from digi to LAN coms. I tried to expain that its not worth bolting on kit to an old panel, because when the old panel dies you end up spend twice. Once on the bolt on, then on the whole upgrade. If you can afford it its always better to go for the upgrade in the first place.
    1 point
  42. Hi, I'm an Alarm Engineer of 7 years, I install and commission Intruder, CCTV, Door Access and Fire Alarms, I joined to ask a question on a Honeywell galaxy panel I was working on but figured it out shortly after, but I've seen quite a few informative things on here so I'm glad I joined, hopefully learn a few things on here too, there's always something new to learn so looking forward to that, I hope to answer other people questions as best I can as well.
    1 point
  43. Hello and welcome, apply for trade membership.
    1 point
  44. You could do it all with one on Paxton but as pointed out it wouldn't conform. Should be an interface local to each door breaking the power directly like with local emergency door releases. Can't rely on the controller or the access network in case it FTO
    1 point
  45. As many of you will know im extending my own Home assistant system. I have noticed some support for what i would call 'proper' control equipment rather than the toy town stuff more traditionally supported. I see texecom have a mqtt Texecom2mqtt: Texecom alarm panel and MQTT integration with HA support - Third party integrations - Home Assistant Community (home-assistant.io) Vanderbilt have Vanderbilt SPC - Home Assistant (home-assistant.io) Galaxy Guy has one for Honeywell Galaxy (im sure he will post more info) Hikvision GitHub - zoilomora/hikvision-to-mqtt: Sends alarm events from Hikvision DVR to MQTT
    1 point
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