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Agreed, we were quite conservative with the www with our two kids, both of them were avid readers and not really into gaming etc. No phones until they were at high school, James had an ipod thing but even that was closely monitored by us. Both were taught about the obvious dangers of the www. I remember looking thorough Jamess search history and he'd been searching for boobs. He was about 12 at the time and was mortified when I spoke to him about it lol. If it was up to me I'd also restrict under 16s and think it's a cesspit for bullying, at least when I went to school the bullying stopped at 3pm.

Allot has changed since your release.... Eagle is same tho, I think...

You are not reading what he typed correctly he typed "with the panel and sensors pulling 0.55 A" Now there was no mention of mA so 0.55A no matter how you try to dress that up is slightly over half an amp. He may have made a mistake but either way what he typed is 0.55A not 0.055A which would be 55mA

Thats half an amp in my book

pizeo's vibrate, thrips / thunder bugs or whatever climb inside stuff & don;t vibrate no more...

So you've proven the wiring and that it's likely the programming... Yes, you should always default them from new.

This is a long shot , but is this possible?

demonic possession, contact your local priest ? Or the sensitivity on the keypad it too high, calibrate / adjust or replace ??

Here's a crazy idea.... why not power down your knacked alarm ?

If you don't want it then get it killed. If you do want it then find someone to. We have a boat load of people and pyronix are to blame for this who do want a security system but spend more at Costa.

nonce ban ? https://www.telegraph.co.uk/content/dam/news/2022/04/06/TELEMMGLPICT000058725877_trans_NvBQzQNjv4BqhZJ9vnP3TZj6dX4F0Tnhrlt1EhdK4aiwcWMQPYeW9P0.jpeg?imwidth=680 they'd laugh out loud....

I wouldn't of thought a bulb unless halogen would get hot enough quixh enough

Evening all. I have yet another question regarding my newly installed Premier Elite control panel. Question is, how do I program a particular zone to be timed when in part set ? I think I have managed to set the zones I want to be on or off when the system is part set, but I cannot find any option that allows me to program a zone as timed when part set, I can only find either on or off options. Regards, Dave.

Thank you. (I don't have the wiring instructions, this kit came to me as previously used)

So I'm thinking this low measurement could be due to voltage drop on the connecting leads (which could amount to a few tenths of a volt at that current). The panel will only measure voltage at the board during a load test.. Next step is to check voltage at the actual terminals of the battery.

Yep I'd also assume the PIR's are in Auto and sleeping. Door contacts shouldn't do that unless you have programmed them incorrectly. They default to always awake.

Two things of note here, if your panel is pulling over half an amp quiescent that seems quite high to me and also if your new battery is dropping to 12v under load I would suggest its not a good battery.

Most likely because you are activating the devices just before or during the setting procedure. Wireless devices will go to sleep for a short period after activation to conserve battery life. If you try triggering a device that has not activated recently you should find the system will respond almost immediately.

cqr used to have clear plastic & you could see them inside I use to find them inside cables upto 1m or so, I reckon they crawled in, & each time one crawled in behind the they;d move up more ? battery in sounder will last 2yrs or 20 yrs....

I'm thinking I need to connect 0V from the power supply to SAB Hold, because that's actually the negative power supply to the sounder. Then connect 0 V to to External Bell -, because that seems to be Trig - on the schematic.

When you completely down-power It remembers the codes zone settings ect in the NVM. But it wont keep the clock going while its down powered, that will default to watchdog

And not cut the spares off ......

Nice... jpg

Every fire years in an intruder alarm Every 4 years in a fire alarm Unless they fail earlier...

Yuasa rate NP batteries as 5 year service life for use within alarm systems, other manufacturers maybe different. From experience you could get 10 years from a Yuasa one but it's best to swap before it's deteriorating.

This should always been changed leaving anything with default codes is a huge risk on a system designed to be secure. All systems need to be serviced or they will eventually fail, usually at 2am etc

Unlike my only fans a/c this one's free- VID_20241108_182950361.mp4

When the PSU is off there is no AC present the battery is DC it probably is coming from the PSU im not doubting it but my bet is that all of them give off AC noise

Ive just checked the ac noise on our demo panel in the training room and thats 32v, that panel hasnt seen much action at all, mostly used for testing different programming scenarios. It has a couple of wired contacts and a wired detector the old style keypad a GSM/Wifi card and some wireless stuff on it. I am wondering if its a trait of the switch mode PSU

Good job

or try removing the ac power (pull fuse) for a bit and see if it continues when on battery only. Also measure your induced ac with the mains off to see the difference between the psu on and off

22.3 on mine

What's opposite it or near it It's time for pictures , don't worry if install is dodgy , so are mine But your saying when no one is near it right , from a distance

I would swap it, they will get exchange aswell Otherwise go see

So today I managed to work out the puzzle of opening one. I am converting it to 24vDC ordered a 24v heat element, the existing fan seems to work on 24v Ill let you know if Ive saved £600 (parts inc psu cost about £25)

Kids of today! Blooming amateurs! Running cables while the floor is up is easy, hard wired is better than wireless for 101 reasons. Not that wireless doesnt have its place, if you had a flat or your renting, or its impossible to get a wire to where its needed wireless is fine. But in your case it sounds like whoever you got to quote is either lazy or stupid and you dont want either of those combinations installing stuff in your house

Some systems are mesh, as you have some wiring, receivers can likely be distributed throughout the system if it's really necessary. Pneumatic drills with decent bits fly through engineering brick or even concrete and rebar. I have yet to find a job that's not possible... Two sensors on a 6-core is possible via EOL wiring, which most systems are now. For control panels they mostly do the same stuff and every installer has there own preferred kit they have trained on, if your DIY'ing a one off it probably doesn't matter. Proper systems are not designed for installation by end users, so your not going to find reviews. You will possibly also struggle to get manufacturer support or manuals at all.

For work in London you don't really need to provide much more information than say "Battersea" to see if a local provider is willing to offer a price for the job. Its unlikely we have an active poster that supports the location & your preferred manufacturer but a member may be able to provide a recommendation to co. which will look after you. I'm form he North of England & do some commercial work in London, after travel & expenses I think I earn the same money as working at home.... I only do it for the turn over & the look of horror when I say please & thank you to bus drivers & good morning sir to traffic wardens..... ect

Yes they are let's hope a no light one does too. A poorly maintained system should be decommissioned. Get it powered down then it won't be a nuisance to you or your neighbours

Battery charging voltage on a non intelligent panel (which I assume this is) should be 13.69 - 13.75 v assuming normal ambient temp. Check charge current and charge voltage on load. Best way to test this is with a partially discharged battery and again when fully charged. I'd be concerned if load reading was below 13v and below 13.5 ish when fully charged An intelligent charge panel will ramp up voltage depending on charge state so harder to test

Next you will say they self certification there equipment

You want omit on part set?

You'll take it all apart and it will likely (if working correctly) make noise until you have finished or until the noise pollution timer kicks in. There is no magic disable button or menu that makes it easy to disable, back doors like that could be exploited.

Probably the best thing to do is to get three quotes. I would advise that you pick three accredited companies either ssiab or NSI gold https://www.nsi.org.uk/ https://ssaib.org/ you can search for local companies with your postcode on these sites Any good company will be able to tailor the alarm system to your needs and will give advise on how to make it simple to use. Most companies will have their own preferred brand that they like to install, we could all start recommending different brands here but it would just confuse you if installers in your area dont use these brands and recommend something else. Once you have your quotes come back here for more advice if you need it

SUNTHORNES!! (made in Aldershot I think) Yes, used to service loads of them in the late 80's and 90's. I remember the BELL TEST button, which was really just a Normally Closed button that removed the power to the external sounder! No bell timer, had to fit a seperate PCB inside panel to time the bell to 20 minutes. The cybertone sounder drilled into the front of the panel which gave you three tones. A continuous whine when you tried to set the system with a zone in fault, a wheeee-wheeee-wheeee for setting and unsetting and a lower faster tone for alarm. You couldn't set any of the zones (with exception of Exit/Entry zone) as "entry route", instead we fitted relays inside the panel which was connected into the E/E sounder to short out the relevant zones during Entry and Exit time. The zone cards, each of which had a Green LED for "ON" (not isolated), Yellow for "Zone in alarm" and Red as a memory after an alarm activation. The really old ones,the isolate button on the front panel used to toggle the Green LED off and on, but it was updated so that the Green LED would come back on when the keyswitch was turned back to off. On the front was a keyswitch and a large piece of darkened plastic where you could see the LEDs of all the zone cards. There was also an expansion board where you could fit loads of zone boards and have up to about 30 zones. There was one of these fitted in Jabro Cash and Carry in Luton (is it still there? this is about 20 years ago now!!) before it was updated to a 9500! Wish I had a photo of the panel! (I don't know why, just memories I guess!) Matt (not from Vidionics anymore like my username says)

PJF, thanks for that. By the way, I'm one of the 'old timers' been at it for 30yrs+, ask your guys if any remember the Model 88, 89 or 91 Tele-Alarm, SID 27s Seismic Detector or 23p PSU (got the paperwork for these!!!!!) magpye