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  1. 2 points
    Looking at the picture, he must have a very understanding wife or lives alone....
  2. 2 points
    Commissioning is programming, testing, meter readings, paperwork, and handing over, but for smaller companies it sometimes means 2nd fix as well.
  3. 2 points
    coloured wires & basic DIY skills, shave a monkey & kick it though a branch of screwfix, if its holding a multi meter & screwdriver on the way out.... vola you have have an alarm monkey however if you can take a current reading your over qualified The easy way to find out if your suitable for a job is to go & get one, if you can't do it or don't like find a different one
  4. 2 points
    An Accenta is a budget system so you get what you pay for. This is irrelevant to the advice for having the system serviced. If you don't have some technical knowledge you are not going to be able to locate the tamper in the first place, the tamper fault could be any component in the system. While your fix may work, possibly better than the original design, it looks pants. There is no way you can justify this type of fix for a paying customer. Any installer would rip the panel out and fit something decent if it was there own system.
  5. 1 point
    When changing batteries I have also found that shorting out battery terminals when you removed batteries help and also to activate the tamper switch a good few times prevent random tamper faults happening after battery changes. Had a couple of sites where tampers always happened a couple of hours after servicing
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Check all your devices , they should all have tamper protection , make sure the covers are on straight , he may have knocked a pir or keypad. Your system won't arm with a tamper fault.
  8. 1 point
    You would be required to wear a Haz mat suit at all times and that was before COVID-19
  9. 1 point
    Mogadishu is safer to travel to than ardossan
  10. 1 point
    I once did a job in Ardrossan..... I believe the foreign office, issue the same advice to travelers as they do for mogadishu, apart from the sun screen ?
  11. 1 point
    Imo it should be a full default, God knows what your inheriting without
  12. 1 point
    I don't think that thread is suitable for reference being a different panel. If you have a Premier 24 then you will be fine replacing it with the same keypad. It's been a very long time since they where supplied without the hard plastic covering as I said in the thread you linked. You will need to replace the backplate but the fixing holes will be the same. Should ideally be in "Confirm Devices" when replacing/changing network components. Has the system been serviced in that time? There are batteries that need periodic replacement and other checks you would normally be advised to do annually.
  13. 1 point
    Intruder would be program, walk test, and check that items are installed to the specification and properly. If monitored, set up monitoring and test with ARC. Meter readings would be each circuit resistance, quiescent current consumption, battery current, current consumption in alarm, and calculate that the battery is an adequate size. Do the same with any PSU's. Check the bell voltage and that the holdoff is working (for longer than 10 seconds, in case the engineer has left the engineers link on the bell) charging current to the bell. If there is signalling equipment check its earthed, if it is separately housed, check any cabling between the CPU and the STU are mechanically protected, check the current readings as above. All meter readings should be done using a calibrated company multimeter. Note bell delay time (if applicable) Note Bell ring time Note entry time & exit time Number of Rearms Linefault monitoring Set the alarm fully and test entry exit is working as it should, set alarm fully and activate alarm system intruder and confirmed intruder, if there are panic buttons test them by pressing them while in day mode. Check with ARC that they recieved all signals in the order that they should have been sent. Handover should note any changes to the specification, all paperwork such as user manual certificates, and it should say that the customer has been shown how to use the alarm system and has a master code or fob, and that thy know how to add new users. I think I have covered everything for intruder. CCTV is a bit different NSI expects us to use a rotakin Fire is quite a bit more involved
  14. 1 point
    Hi Cieska For starters are we talking intruder, or fire, or CCTV, or Access, or gate automation? Each have there own set checks, tests, and meter readings.
  15. 1 point
    You have the engineers and user codes the wrong way round I'd guess.
  16. 1 point
    On a recent project our Engineers were pulled up for a few issues regarding their cabling: 1. With cable laid in underfloor voids, they didn't use the data matts that were provided 2. They didn't clip their cables to the slab 3. They ran cabling over ductwork, not underneath it. To be fair, it was work done by our 1st fix sub-contractors, rather than our Engineers. However it is actually up to our Team to show the subbies the standards and check that everyone installs to this standard. We are going to put a 1st fix guide together with pictures to show our Teams in future what we expect. Silly question (as i'm not an Engineer), but where do I go to find out about best practice and regulations around running cables for security systems? Thanks.
  17. 1 point
    Yes you need to risk assess the site regarding what grade system the site needs, but many people just go 'grade 2 that will do' Grade 2 is cheaper than grade 3
  18. 1 point
    bear in mind the honeywell galaxy g2 is a grade 2 (std wise) part honeywell optima gen4 is grade 1 (in fact it may be 4737 id have to look) honeywell dimension is Grade 3 Flex is both G2 and G3 depending on model and config
  19. 1 point
    I’m having problems sourcing a suitable flux capacitor but, I if I do....
  20. 1 point
    are you making any progress with the time machine ?
  21. 1 point
    Thanks for your helpful and constructive response. Firstly, the company were not random, they were the closest to my house and therefore in my (proven wrong) opinion were maybe the likeliest to turn up given that at the time I called them all I had an alarm I wasn’t using going off every hour the night and was not sure what the options were. Secondly - in parallel I was exploring the route I needed to go down to fix the alarm as we had always wanted to use the alarm but as it had been triggered by our cats we stopped setting it. In researching broken alarms I found a wealth of helpful information some of which led me to believe I should give it another go and therefore fixing it might make sense although replacing the entire thing may be more cost effective. I restore HiFi amplifiers and components in my spare time and never ‘poke around’ with meters , I would suggest that you probably should avoid that as well, you will find it’s not good for you or the things you are ‘poking’ The alarm now seems to be working, I had to replace the main battery, two sensor batteries and a 0.25a fuse. I can at least set and trigger it both with sensors and anti-tamper switches Risco have provided me with a source for a keypad as well as advising which type I required. I have also tracked down the original installer whose company unfortunately closed after a family death. My aim will be to get it all working then get it checked and under an annual maintenance contract. I do however enjoy repairing things myself I’m not sure which of ‘buying batteries’, ‘taking the keypad apart’ ,’poking things with a meter’ and ‘calling installers’ led you to believe I hadn’t made my mind up as I thought it was perfectly clear- I was seeking help/guidance from the forum which was why I posted in the first place.
  22. 1 point
    Honeywell G4 Scantronic 9651 Honeywell G2
  23. 1 point
    I suspect that they wont recommend another brand LOL but they may well recommend someone in your area
  24. 1 point
    Veritas will be difficult even the electrician's can't do them fully Start with Honeywell g4 - 9651 - galaxy g2-12 - then dive into a dimension on left hand and premier elite in right at same time
  25. 1 point
    Start with a scantronic 9651 / texecom veritas r8 / honeywell G4
  26. 1 point
    On a side the galaxy dimension panel wasn't made for the diyer Lack of information is more about lack of knowledge, training and experience So other panels you will find same situation where you don't know what it can and can't do
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Just to note that the panel you're looking at on eBay is cheap for a reason. It's not new and looks like it has been a swap out. That is, the installer has a fault on an installed system and they then switch out the PCB. If you look at the PCB, you can see that the screw terminals have been used. The PCB serial number doesn't match the box serial number and that's a classic sign of this type of swap out. I suspect that this panel will not boot, so if you do buy, don't put it on the wall without thoroughly testing it. I've had quite a few people who have bought these returns - some are lucky and some not so. I think the seller is pretty decent though. He'll refund on return. It's a bit of a hassle for the saving against buying the V7.03 CO48-D-E1 though! Especially the ones that come with Ethernet modules
  29. 1 point
    The early pre dimension could be bought with or with comms onboard C for comms and as GG stated they didnt have any rear off wall tamper. Well that how we always order them.
  30. 1 point
    The versions are upgraded for development and sometimes correcting earlier glitches Version 7 example was superseded within week I think and so on Firmware easy to do , just buy it on a stick or if you can get the files there are other ways
  31. 1 point
    The E1 is the European region 1 which includes the UK with English and settings that comply with UK standards for a grade 3 panel. E2 Etc are for other regions and include various languages and country specific settings If in the UK, make sure you get an E1 at version 7.03. There are a few customer returns from Europe being sold on eBay.
  32. 1 point
    I would guess, 12v and GND on CPU to 12v and 0v on bell, put a link from GND on CPU to COM then wire N/O to B on Bell
  33. 1 point
    No, the keypad's max needs to be configured in the system. If you power a keypad without data, then silence it. You will get no response from the reader when presenting a tag. One other thing to note for Anders is that if you hold down the 'ent' key and power up the keypad, it will go into diagnostic mode and tell you the firmware level, keypad address and if the module is in fact a keyprox version or not. Regards,
  34. 1 point
    Hello again Anders, The message couldn't be translated to "No Entries" from 61.4 ? There are three possibilities: 1. The 63.2.1 which is 'MAX Mode' is set to Disabled. Enable this, then reset the whole system and try presenting a tag, it should beep. 2. The prox reader is faulty 3. It is not a prox PCB in the keypad. I'm hoping, for your sake that it is No.1. When 'Max Mode' is disabled, the panel does not communicate with the MAX reader module within the keypad, so it does not beep when a tag is presented. I have also seen faulty keyprox circuits within keypads, so possibility 2 is not impossible. If it is a prox PCB, then it will have either a black module soldered in the location of the six thru holes of the PCB directly above the words "PROX READER". Or two red enameled wires (from a coil) coming through a hole in the PCB and soldered to two pads in the same area. Regards,
  35. -1 points
    I have an Accenta Mini Gen4 alarm and also recently also had the Tamper Fault Lockout message. Certainly I was partly to blame as I had moved the location of the key pad and to do that, had to remove the cover. After all the expert advice (get and expert to service the alarm / buy a replacement keypad / passed its design life / etc) I managed to cure the problem myself. As far as I can see, the keypad case is very poorly designed; the two tabs at the top and the screw fitting at the bottom are not really designed to the absolute minimum strength required. Because I had removed the bottom screw, when replaced, it did not fully close the case; there was around 0.5mm of 'play and this was sufficient to activate the tamper switch. I bodged some new 'tabs' on the top and bottom, fitted locking pins at the top. At the bottom, I reinforced the screw tab with epoxy and redrilled. Also, stretched the tamper spring a bit. The pureists will shoot me down, but the result was it now all works, no Tamper Fault Lockout message and did not have to buy a new keypad.
  36. -1 points
    Knew it! Purists. Not saying it is the most elegant solution, but this RKP is in the garage so am not overly concerned with the appearance. I could certainly have done a better job with taps and dies, etc, but don't have access to those tools. Yes, it is not the most expensive alarm but what does one get for more money? Ass an alarm, it works, it activates the sounder when triggered; what more do I want? The electronics are fine, they do what they say on the box so why should anyone have to spend £25 just to get a new case? And only because the case is poorly designed. The control box plastic case is much better designed with the plastic tabs being stronger. But I do agree that fixing the issue may not be everyone's cuppa. It is mine; I installed the system and set it up when I built the house
  37. -1 points
    Thanks Peter, the alarm was in the house when we purchased it, again good advice re: a pet friendly solution. I’ve disconnected the speaker and removed the battery. At the moment a buzzer is sounding in the keypad on the hour, but it is at a manageable volume. it looks like the unit is wired into the circuit the downstairs sockets so I need to disconnect that from the breaker box. I called a local ‘pro’ this morning and arranged a visit to look at the key pad, he never showed, so it looks like I I’ll be trying to sort that myself. I’m assuming that it is ‘4-wire’ as that is how many are connected up at the main controller. i’ve been reading about pet friendly sensors as well so just drawing up a list of what I might need. from what I’m seeing the unit is old and there are much newer/better things out there that look easier to install
  38. -1 points
    Thanks Peter, detectors are all in ceiling corners and most ceilings are 10am so I doubt it. admittedly the issue arose when we first moved in and had two kittens that could climb curtains- they are not so adventurous now, but we stopped using the alarm. we called the company whose sticker was on the wall unit- they went bust in March... As far as programming goes, I respect your advice. I have a battery coming tomorrow, I’ve dropped am email to gardtec about which controller to get and where from- we shall see if they reply
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