james.wilson

Sorry i dont use texecom for anything

All i can say is apply the same logic to everything else in your home. Id like to know the ages of everything else. We dont say it needs to be replaced to do what you want for profit to us, your here posting no-one is making any money. You still have an old system none of us here would have in our homes. I moved into a house with ts 900 10 years ago. Its gone. I have a v2 hw 1070 now a 10270 due to firmware upgrades. When i cant upgrade firmware i get rid. This is the bit of kit i trust to protect my home and all around it (granted its linked to HA)

Im more suprised its not setup how you want, ie spelling issues etc, being shot is SA does not

Lol

Pete is that why when the wind blows I swear I hear gun's?

Id suggest you start a new topic about this

When first powered up its in a test mode showing open circuits. Once you clear them all it will then go to rest / day mode. One option is to remove all circuit wiring (marking up first and take a photo) then link out all to prove the panel. If the panel functions with all circuits, tampers etc closed then you have a base point to start from

on power up from new (if you reset it then its the same sort of thing) it will show active circuits till you press a button etc. Whats concerning me is the fact its not accepting the default code. If its that old it wont have an engineer code. Just the user code.

It is knocking on though an optima compact gen4 isnt exactly much. Old yes useless maybe not, worth spending much time on, no. But depends how much you need it and how important reliability is. Is also god a horrid cheap battery on it that certainly wont help if it was ever 2.2Ah id be astounded

you have the wrong manual thats an original compact as it only has 6 zones.

could be a g3, id upload a pic of it.

It looks like you have used a optima gen4 manual on a non gen4 optima. What optima do you have? If its pre xm you may have just blown it

Does it need manager Auth for udl

Assuming you have set the relevant circuit correctly then it may have an nvm issue. It's very old now

agreed but 2000 ohms is a lot. I would expect it to be the pir but if you test the tamper switch at 200 ohms this will confirm, testing set on 200k wont show a high reading. It should be very close to 0.3 ohms (not 0.3 K Ohms) plus whatever size the built in series resistor ir (not the ones in the terminals) you could try adding something to the red dot to adjust the close point if the case is slightly twisted

You want to be on 200 ohms not 200k for the short tests

Put your meter on 200 ohms. Yes short the blue and yellow to check the cable but I'd expect a connection or the tamper switch the reading should be steady and not fluctuate

Disconnect the circuit at the panel and meter the tamper pair on the sensor. The tamper switch is the red dot. Then short the cables at the pir and measure the resistance at the panel

texecom do a standalone reciever so do eaton (scantronic) But id want a control panel for logging, locking out, resetting etc

Hkc, honeywell, vanderbilt

Are you sure you have an external sounder? Most adt systems are just empty boxes outside

or go for mesh. Im looking at the netgear orbi for my place

Do you have a remote psu or seperate rf reciever?

As above if an intruder alarm fails to perform your insurance company would claim from the maintaner. Thats why Insurance companies want an approved company as they have to have the specialist insurance for this. As such systems are locked down to prevent an innocent change to the config actually having unforseen problems. So without that you may not have a valid insurance cover

You using for cctv or access control? Also you might be better off posting on the trade side