sixwheeledbeast

Clearly a few things are wrong here. The jamming is the most difficult to resolve in finding the source of the jamming. However, I would be concerned with the whole installation if a bell tamper occurs on activation. Could be overload, something wired wrong, switch inside the bell; a number of things. Time to get the multimeter out and ricochet monitor setup, assuming it's a self install.

The device in question has had a comms issue and then probably drained out. If you have a maintainer it's something to contact them about. It will not clear or arm as the device is missing, the panel can't contact it.

Yep

Extra pair. Texecom panels will detect the fault type.

G3 ones have monitoring and extra outputs for this.

They should be recharged from the panel. You may find the bell is just faulty, or your diagnosis is wrong. Usually because of the weathering they take it's more sensible for an engineer to replace the unit if it's not relatively new. Plastics fatigue, piezos get frost damaged, electronics get tired or moisture corrosion. Depends how sheltered the location is.

Get someone that knows what they are doing to look at it?

G3 Odysseys will if they are wired up correctly. When it's in Engineer Hold-Off mode you then work on it, that's the point of the mode. Pulling jumpers will trigger it as power is already applied to the terminals. They are stuck in engineer hold-off mode until you finish, close up and then wait for it to expire or trigger it. Obviously it's still powered so you have to be careful you don't short stuff out or get a kick off the strobe, it's an engineer mode not a user friendly mode.

From what I can make of the smeary image, Guardall Racsal. Possibly the lids not on correctly, can't remember if they have a spring tamper. When replacing the battery you need to check the panels charging circuit isn't faulty with a multimeter. There is more to servicing an alarm than stuffing a battery in every now and then. I certainly wouldn't recommend defaulting if you don't know how to reprogram it, even if you do find a manual. If the memory is scrambled it needs replacing not reprogramming, but I doubt that's the issue anyway. We don't provide defaulting information or manuals here as per our guidelines.

It's usually down to who controls what tho. Who will commission the fire etc. I would always expect one for one unless told and confirmed in writing otherwise. You want to minimise the length of the runs from the fire system and also minimise failures if there is an issue with the loop.

It's been Pink for a little while now. The colours in the regs for DC make little sense but I suppose when they specified and then changed them initially that made no sense either...

You could do it all with one on Paxton but as pointed out it wouldn't conform. Should be an interface local to each door breaking the power directly like with local emergency door releases. Can't rely on the controller or the access network in case it FTO

They were garbage decades ago, programming would go loopy at random. It's not the electricians fault, no system should be affected from a power loss. It wants decommissioning or replacing, even if you fixed the programming it's knackered and unreliable.

Ok so the long version... If the power being removed triggered the alarm then the battery and most likely the charging circuit on the panel is faulty. At this point the external sounder should sound, if it didn't that is also faulty. You then also seem to have a tamper fault which could be related to poking about in the panel or the faulty battery or maybe something else. All these things need a multimeter and some knowledge how to use one to confirm and pin point the issue and clear the lockout. Systems that have been unmaintained for long periods of time are usually best to be re-evaluated and upgraded.

You don't bounce as well the older you get, I think everyone becomes more aware of that.

That's a few decades earlier

In short it sounds like there are a few things not working correctly. I'd either remove it or get someone to upgrade it with the building works in mind.

Ah a question... Yes I'd say most old ADE stuff I see is tired and has either no or very low charging rate. Every battery replacement should come with checking the charging rate and off mains change over, it's pointless and wasteful throwing a new battery in for it to drain out.

Seems appropriate with half the country on fire...

How about a tat smartlock to go with your tat cameras... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wME4qvu678c

They were a RS232 expansion card for Heitel units. Loads of extra relays and inputs you could map via the Software to channels and presets.

Unlikely, but again need to test these things with a meter.

If the system was on engineer reset for tamper events then the installer code will need to be used to reset the system. It's possible you still have a fault with the charging circuit or the standby battery, which needs testing with a multimeter.

You'll get this thread highlighted when you login tho, or you may even get an email if you have that enabled. @MrHappy@norman